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Old 03-30-2003, 02:55 PM   #3091
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Fastharry I cant seem to find the info on the new fix, can you please give me the number of the page its on.

Thanks
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Old 03-30-2003, 05:45 PM   #3092
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exactly........the fix's that were in question as to their anodizing status was the new edition of "THE FIX"....

BUT THEN,that was misconscrewed( ) to be general fixes for the car....of course,that is covered in the whole thread..roughly 100 pages.....''so if you want info on "THE FIX",go a few pages back......

of course,if you want info on "the fixes" for the entire car,start at the beginning..

got all that???
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Old 03-30-2003, 06:00 PM   #3093
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"Yeah"
What he said
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Old 03-30-2003, 06:16 PM   #3094
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Hey guys, since RCCA is down for a while, I thought I'd ask this here, since some of the guys here are from RCCA(I haven't been here in a LONG time...). Does anyone have any experience with the Sirio .12? If/when I get an NTC3, I was considering picking up this engine, if it proves to be reliable, easy to tune, powerful, etc. If the Sirio wouldn't be a wise choice, what would be? I was thinking about the MR-12, but I'm trying to steer clear of triple-needle(has a mid-speed needle) carbs, and I'm pretty sure the MR12 does(but the Sirio probably does, too). Other engines on my list are the RB X12 and OS .12 TR(not turbo...staying away from turbo engines, too). My track right now is a pretty small, kind of small to mid-sized track I would say, but they're planning on building a track big enough for 1/8 scales, so I'll need a pretty high-speed track engine(or play with gearing and get a dual chamber pipe, I guess). Also, what performance differences do you actually notice with the dual chamber pipe? I'm pretty sure I saw it was a higher RPM pipe, but I'm not positive. This is going to be my first nitro onroad car(definitely not my first nitro car, or onroad car though), so I'm a bit in the dark as to what to look for in all of this. Any other NTC3 tips or onroad tips in general would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 03-30-2003, 07:04 PM   #3095
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ya know,I'm thinking all the "NOVA" style slide carbs are 3 screws...but heres a solution..just don't adjust it...or touch it..

I run RB 5 and 3 port turbos in my tc3's..(MY HPI SS also)...great all around power.......but lets face it..nothing runs as steady as an OS...the OS RE model has great low end and midrange punch...a perfect match for car that can attain such great cornering speeds(entry AND exit)....I have one waiting to go in one of my Tc3's(I'm gonna put the RB in my super nitro)..



One great hint for tuning RB's(and nova based engines......

Don't try to launch the car from a standstill and tune the high speed needle....teh low end,if not adjusted properly can throw you off...

get the car to mid speed(out of the low end needle's tuning range)...THEN hit the gas....adjust the needle mixture till it accelerates reel smooth,to a nice clean top end(smoke should be seen....but you'll sense a nice smooth top speed)....

THEN set the car on teh ground and adjust the low end needle so it can sit for ten seconds and take off clean.....no more,no less....


I read that on one of the mags..and has to be the best tuning advice I ever read(or tried,cause it works)...
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Old 03-30-2003, 08:08 PM   #3096
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
exactly........the fix's that were in question as to their anodizing status was the new edition of "THE FIX"....

BUT THEN,that was misconscrewed( ) to be general fixes for the car....of course,that is covered in the whole thread..roughly 100 pages.....''so if you want info on "THE FIX",go a few pages back......

of course,if you want info on "the fixes" for the entire car,start at the beginning..

got all that???
lol im confused j/k so has anybody heard about when the anodized new edition of "The Fix" will be available or if it is?

speedydave, I have a sirio in my ntc3 but havent got a chance to run it yet because it just got warm and I dont have time right now, and just when the weather gets nice it starts snowing!!! I bought I because you cant beat the price for an italian engine and I was convinced by Maveric Racer that its better than the MT12 and MR12. Ive heard that its a little lacking in lowend but the high end is insane, which sounds good for that big track that your gonna have, I think Im gonna make up for the lacking low end with a smaller pinion for first gear. I heard from some people that its relatively easy to tune but theyre more experienced than me, and one guy said he had a problem once but he replaced the o-rings in the carb which fixed it. Oh and it has a three needle carb but they advise you not to touch it unless your an experienced racer. The only bad things I know about it now are that the directions are translated directly from italian so they sound a little strange but are perfectly understandable in most cases and the directions dont tell you the proper break-in procedure.

HTH
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Old 03-30-2003, 08:21 PM   #3097
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Harry, my RB WS7 has a low speed needle and a high speed needle, but no mid-speed needle...Thanks for the info!

AE Racer, hmm...well, until they build the track, I'm stuck on a pretty small track(or at least, to me it seems small). I've been running nitro for about a year now, maybe 13 months total, so i'm definitely not new to nitro, but I definitely don't know everything(who does? ). Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-30-2003, 09:11 PM   #3098
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the 21 RB's don't..(at least teh s7 ion my kanai,and the rody C4 in my veteq don't) for some reason..i have that engine in my Kanai..it runs real well....

anytime I can help....try that tuning trick..it works..
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Old 03-30-2003, 10:04 PM   #3099
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HI all,
HAha just Won B-main Sportsman haha so now i have 10 race bucks what hop up should i get?? this is only valid at Hobby people .. So tell me what should i get?
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Old 03-30-2003, 10:06 PM   #3100
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Save it and get a big prize!
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Old 03-31-2003, 01:19 AM   #3101
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Hey Tn>, I have that pipe(literally) !! I love it. It and my Murnan Modified MT12 powered NTC3 finished 5th in the A main after bumping up from the B today! My clutch was slipping, the rear diff blew a bearing, none of my qualifiers were good, but it came through when it counted.
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Old 03-31-2003, 05:50 AM   #3102
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So is that pipe a noticeable difference over the AE dual chamber pipe red? What did it perform like?

Jon
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Old 03-31-2003, 06:52 AM   #3103
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Default Re: Stripped a-arms!

Quote:
Originally posted by mckrooz
Ok, I went to the track yesterday to break in my CV-R on my new TC3. Well, I touched the wall SLIGHTLY and and noticed the car kept fish tailing on throttle. I brought it in and saw the the rear upper pivot ball had stripped out of the a arm. I replaced it and got back and got through a tank. After further inspection in the pits I noticed that the rear pivot ball had stripped out of the lower arm and I broke a rear hub carrier! All in all, I had one big crash where I broke the front bumper but that was the only thing. The other times were 1/2 throttle touches to the wall. At the end of the day I broke rear upper a-arm, lower a-arm, hub carrier, and front bumper. 3 total tanks.

Did you guys have this problem with the pivot balls stripping out? Should I get the graphite parts? I am seriously bummed out on this car. I thought that the parts durability was top notch but I never broke anything on my RS4 and I crashed ALOT.
Hi,
if I may be frank, I think you have fixed up the car wrongly. my pivot ball is so tight, that I need a plier to turn the allen key driving the pivot ball. It does not fall off.
As for the bumper, you are right, it is a big too rigid to take a bang into anything.
The car as an overall is tough. The NTC3 needs some patience to build up to last.
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:21 AM   #3104
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Hmm, I'm pretty sure I put the car together right. I really took my time and used the track width gauge to measure between the a-arm and hub. We'll see. Let's just hope that it was those two arms that were defective. All the other pivot balls are super tight.
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:25 AM   #3105
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Quote:
Originally posted by mckrooz
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I put the car together right. I really took my time and used the track width gauge to measure between the a-arm and hub. We'll see. Let's just hope that it was those two arms that were defective. All the other pivot balls are super tight.
ok, good luck...
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