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Old 03-26-2003, 01:19 AM   #3031
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Quote:
Originally posted by GP40X
To all the guys having overheating problems



Hopefully, we're not missing something basic here. When you install an engine in the car, are you checking the cylinder head orientation and turning the cylinder head 90 degrees to get it to cool properly if the center cooling slot is not facing front to rear? Remember, Novarossi, Picco, et.al. engines usually have a single cooling slot cut in the fins on the inside of the head to get air to the center of the head to cool the glow plug area. These engines are built to bolt right in belt drive cars like the Mugen, Reflex, etc... These engines mount sideways (crank snout points toward the right side of the car) instead of pointing in the aft/rear position like the NTC3 ( & the new Hong Nor/OFNA LD3). If the slot in the head that cools the center of the head is at a 90 degree angle to the crank & it is in a NTC3, there is no air going through the center of the head. I remember seeing earlier in this thread & in the NTC3 thread over at the radio controlled zone that the guys having overheating problems turned the head 90 degrees on the engine to get airflow though the head properly & their overheating problems were gone. HTH

Bill (NTC3 RTR)
Hi GP40X, done that heat sink trick and yeah ya right it solved me problem out right!!!
Thank you.
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Old 03-26-2003, 04:21 AM   #3032
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Default OS Motor

This is probably a dumb question but I have never seen anyone talk about this. I have an OS .15 cvr in my NTC3 and a friend of mine has a OS .12 cvr. How can you tell the difference from the 2 motors? The only thing that looks different to me is the head the .12 is blue and the .15 is black. If I changed my head to the blue one would anyone be able to tell the difference? Can someone explain this to me.
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Old 03-26-2003, 04:33 AM   #3033
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Default Re: OS Motor

Quote:
Originally posted by Number 11
This is probably a dumb question but I have never seen anyone talk about this. I have an OS .15 cvr in my NTC3 and a friend of mine has a OS .12 cvr. How can you tell the difference from the 2 motors? The only thing that looks different to me is the head the .12 is blue and the .15 is black. If I changed my head to the blue one would anyone be able to tell the difference? Can someone explain this to me.
It wouldn't work because the .15 bore is different from the .12 bore. You would have compression and leakage problems. And why? The difference in performance is pretty much negligible unless you're running races in a class that only allows a .12. Most people will be able to tell if you're running a .15 by sound or whatnot. There's not much fun in cheating, unless you just want a different color head, then in that case, just buy a blue head made for the .15CV-R
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:14 AM   #3034
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
It's always good to double check the pins, but if you're talking about how one thread is out more than the other I think it's normal within reason(a thread or two). I just measured 5 pivot balls I had here and the thread does vary up to .035".
Its a few threads more on 1 side on the top, but when i measure it, Its also longer.
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:25 AM   #3035
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
I just ran at the Revelation Airtronics Spring Challenge and there was a TON of breakage and a TON of complaining about weak cars. (I wasn't one of those - I complained about the guy that introduced me to Mr. Wall. . .)

What most of those people didn't realize is that these cars go FAST - and at a track like Revelation, they go REAL FAST (anyone hasn't seen it, Rev is really built for 1/8th scales. . .) and most all of the wreckage was done in high speed areas. Duh, it's gonna break.

It was funny to talk to several NTC3 owners who swore they were going to sell their cars because they were fragile (I talked to one who is going to go back to his other car because he drove it better. . .it fit him better. . .that was a good reason) - I laughed when they saw 6 out of 9 1/8th scale EXPERTS break in the same spots that they broke. . . too funny. The abuse we can put our cars through and still keep them driving. . . I drove about 5 minutes with a broken shock tower . . .

Anyway, no real point, just spewing forth words.



Boomer,I wonder how many of those tc3 guys that broke either did not have "the FIX", OR were running the factory team Grahphite parts....What parts were breaking most?...


also,were any other 1/10th cars breaking?......BTW,from my own racing,(and I've yet to break anything)...I think the car is fine..I also think it mantains higher cornering speed,accelerates harder,is is usually going faster than belt cars when it hits something(excuse me,when the DRIVER hits something)...


I've been in plenty of wrecks where my Impulse usually breaks the hubs or upper arms after a good whacking..
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Old 03-26-2003, 06:30 AM   #3036
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Unhappy would like to finish a race

hey boomer waz-up!
you know sometimes you have to blame something .in my case i blamed the car,but in truth the car was working my lap time proved that ,getting hit by a slower car and beening taken out u
can not help
so its back to modding and r/@/d fase for the car . i,m not going to sell it ,because its a fast ride and handles well ,
i would just like to finish a race!!!
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Old 03-26-2003, 07:16 AM   #3037
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hey simon are you sure you have the upper pivot arm mounted in the same hole on both sides? It sounds like one side might be mounted in the outside hole. They should both be mounted in the inside hole as that gives the most reliable handling. Check that out and if that's not it..... don't worry about I guess.

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Old 03-26-2003, 07:37 AM   #3038
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Exclamation Info Needed

Hey guys,
I am brand spanking new to r/c and i ordered a NTC 3 RTR and i am wondering what should i get as either extra parts or hop ups, stuff like that???

This is what i have.
(on the way)
NTC 3 RTR
Transmitter case
3 OS #A3 glow plugs
Glow wrench
DuraTrax Standard Screwdriver Set w/Pouch
After run engine oil
Glow starter

(i have already)
500cc fuel bottle
250cc fuel bottle
Nitro fuel

So i should be set when my car and stuff gets here to start bashing.

I just bought a fuel filter today, and i bought a BMW 328 Ci body.

Is there anything that you would recommend getting?? Anything you think of let me know. i would be greatful.

Thanks for your help,
David
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Old 03-26-2003, 08:10 AM   #3039
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read this first 30 or 40 pages dvargas you will learn everything you need to know

wvracer
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Old 03-26-2003, 09:07 AM   #3040
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Default Re: Re: OS Motor

Quote:
Originally posted by iMax02
It wouldn't work because the .15 bore is different from the .12 bore. You would have compression and leakage problems. And why? The difference in performance is pretty much negligible unless you're running races in a class that only allows a .12. Most people will be able to tell if you're running a .15 by sound or whatnot. There's not much fun in cheating, unless you just want a different color head, then in that case, just buy a blue head made for the .15CV-R
Actually I wasn't posting this question because I wanted to cheat. I was curious and I haven't noticed a difference in the engines. I also never noticed a sound difference but I will listen next time I am at the track.
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Old 03-26-2003, 10:28 AM   #3041
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
Boomer,I wonder how many of those tc3 guys that broke either did not have "the FIX", OR were running the factory team Grahphite parts....What parts were breaking most?...
I know that "the FIX" or my version of it didn't help for what got me - a forced introduction to Mr. Wall at top speed. . .nothin's gonna help that.

Most of the cars that I saw, including Isuzu's, had some type of bracing on the shock tower. I did see some without, but most had it. I don't think that there were a lot of breaks at those points - I know that my break was everywhere BUT there.

Quote:
also,were any other 1/10th cars breaking?......BTW,from my own racing,(and I've yet to break anything)...I think the car is fine..I also think it mantains higher cornering speed,accelerates harder,is is usually going faster than belt cars when it hits something(excuse me,when the DRIVER hits something)...

I've been in plenty of wrecks where my Impulse usually breaks the hubs or upper arms after a good whacking..
I saw one spectacular crash of a 1/10th GTP - the guy clipped the berm coming onto the straight and lifted the front - full blowover into the wall. Absolutely beautiful. He broke (obviously) but he came back 7 minutes later and finished fourth. . .man what a RUN!

Just my opinion, but I think the breakage was pretty much "equal opportunity" - Revelation is just a merciless track - only because it's such a high-speed track. It's wide open and built for speed. Like, really built for speed.
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:34 PM   #3042
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Quote:
I laughed when they saw 6 out of 9 1/8th scale EXPERTS break in the same spots that they broke. . . too funny. The abuse we can put our cars through and still keep them driving. . . I drove about 5 minutes with a broken shock tower . . .
Been there,done that I actually took third place in the Novice Nitro Main two weeks ago with the shock tower held onto the diff case with 1 screw. Hopefully I can take third or better this weekend WITHOUT breaking the car

Bill (NTC3 RTR)
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:40 PM   #3043
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Default overheating issue.

hi guys, i did not get internet connection till today and from the pass replys that follows heres my issue, and hope everyone can help out.


1) i run a extremely small local track 25m in length and 10m wide.
2) i can only gun the car for less then 1 sec on the straight.
3) this track requires more low to mid range power.
4) all the cars uses a 5port engine.

solution i have tried :
1) stock gearing
2) 3 piece clutch and cutted
3) cut manifold 5 mm
4) duel chamber pipe
5) nova 5 port
6) k- factory low CG tank
7) crazynut head ( broke into 2 during a crash)
8) 90 degree 1/8 buggy air filter ( cold air)
9) running lola body ( expose engine and air filter)

symptom:

1) alittle too lean on low end, the engine will start to sing.
2) a little too rich the engine refuse to idle. or idle for 10 sec and die.
3) top end : lean the car will run.. but run very very hot and 99 percent of the time its a single tank fun because after that the cab will be over heated that no fuel will go in even if you force feed it. (over heating)
4) top end rich: car low respond is very bubbly and most of the time, engine will cut when transition from mid to full throttle.


i hope to solve these issue fast as the mugens are getting on my nerve with their perfect engine and pipe and they can concentrade on car setup.


good point on NTC3

1) i have only replace a shock tower due to bad transportation, someone sat on it..hehehe
2) replace a blue center shaft : my bent from a high speed out of control bang into the wall.
3) chassis is warp : but its still running
4) 1 engine mount screw is missing.. must have drop out on the track.
5) just put in the one way and boy it was fun with the one way on.
6) no sway bars as it a tiny bumpy track


anyway you guys are great. but i understand some have this issue and some does not but all our NTC3 IS STILL HAVING this issue.


thanks ..make friends not war.


fuse
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:47 PM   #3044
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Quote:
Hey guys,
I am brand spanking new to r/c and i ordered a NTC 3 RTR and i am wondering what should i get as either extra parts or hop ups, stuff like that???
The only things I can suggest is get "The Fix" (I'm already down 1 differential case), loose the OS A-3 glow plugs & get McCoy MC-59 glow plugs (what Associated recommends & the RTR engine is designed to use them). Also I second reading this forum & the Radio Controlled Zone Nitro TC3 Thread. They will answer most, if not all, of your questions. HTH

Bill (NTC3 RTR)
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Old 03-26-2003, 07:19 PM   #3045
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Look at my baby!
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