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Old 03-25-2003, 08:49 PM   #3016
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i completely agree. i think too many people see the NTC3 doing so incredibly well at every highly publisized racing event that they get the idea that if they get one, they will have the same instant success in their racing. when they get it assembled and start using it and run into problems, they instantly get frustrated and blame the kit, when they probably rushed it and didnt take the time to check everything like they should, or they may have over looked something. thats why we have forums, to help each other.
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Old 03-25-2003, 08:55 PM   #3017
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
thanks.....what part are you agreeing with?......
Some people tend to have different problem solving approaches than others.
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:01 PM   #3018
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I have a problem. The screw where I adjust the camber, and the one on the bottom are different on front right and front left. I do the track width on the bottom of the left and right arms. Then I adjust both sides to 2 Degree Camber and then the right side is longer than the left but the trackwidth is the same. So basically its the same at the bottom but when I do the camber, it shows up 2 degree for both sides even though oneside is a little out more than the other. I'm really stumped. Could this be bent hinge pins? I'm going to give it a tune up tomorrow.
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:06 PM   #3019
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well,heres something I was thinking of today...


I'm getting my car ready for the NJ wars.....and you know what I noticed?...


some leakage around teh exhaust gasket...so I take out the gasket,and it is a little haggard looking...btw,its an RB gasket,so its good quality....

now,I didn't have an overheating issue,but its worth keeping an eye on....esp. since the re pipe set up is kind of prone to hanging a little crooked...

if this leaking on yours,that will affect running,heat,and pressure issues on that area...
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:09 PM   #3020
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diff question

on step 4, #4 - adjust the diff, how do you know when that spring is fully compressed? i believe when i set up the diffs, i did it correctly, but there was also the statement about being careful not to over tighten the bolt when compressing the spring. i'm thinking my problem below has to do with my diffs, am i right? lastly, any suggestions?

i've taken my car out a few times and when generous throttle is applied from a standstill, the car spins out. when i make an on-power turn the car spins out. it handles perfect the rest of the time. i verified the suggested rubber set up on my car with a set up station, set up tools, and a tweak board, so i dont think the problem is entirely in the set up of the car, or the stock rubber set up sucks. i havve tried the stock tires as well as a good set of rubbers just to make sure.
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:10 PM   #3021
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Quote:
Originally posted by simonfdr
I have a problem. The screw where I adjust the camber, and the one on the bottom are different on front right and front left. I do the track width on the bottom of the left and right arms. Then I adjust both sides to 2 Degree Camber and then the right side is longer than the left but the trackwidth is the same. So basically its the same at the bottom but when I do the camber, it shows up 2 degree for both sides even though oneside is a little out more than the other. I'm really stumped. Could this be bent hinge pins? I'm going to give it a tune up tomorrow.
It's always good to double check the pins, but if you're talking about how one thread is out more than the other I think it's normal within reason(a thread or two). I just measured 5 pivot balls I had here and the thread does vary up to .035".
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:14 PM   #3022
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
A lot of the questions and problems seen on this thread in the past few weeks seem to be the basic kind of stuff. Nitro still is not a no-brainer like electric is. You do have to use sound building techniques(like sealing engines, checking for leaks, cleaning clutch shoes, etc) and the engines still need to be tuned not only every day you run but throughout a race day. With the manufacturing problems(tank) and gear issues(new material) out of the way, I have an awful lot of confidence in this car in the coming season. Not only is it the best at the track, it's a great parking lot car, and is also the best bang for buck too and tons of parts support.

Also, I have to agree with Fast Harry

btw,I've been running Rally and a xxx Kinwald at barnstormers in NY.. ( www.barnstormersrc.com )..... for trhe winter months....between learning about tuning motors,batterys,comm cutting(HUDY,of course)..I'm learning electric can be as tough as nitro...




soon,though,I''ll be running touring......and I'm gonna try off road 1/8th(Kanai)..and maybe travel to Englishtown to run 1/8th on road(Veteq)...
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:16 PM   #3023
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Harry, where are the nj wars and when? May be interested in going.
Tks
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:17 PM   #3024
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Sup all im having trouble PAge 9 step 11 see the E-Clip njumver 6299, well it seems like everytime redo my diff that clip is Gone or bent inside the Case it wont stay there. How would i make it stay? should i run without it? would it effect my caR?
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:37 PM   #3025
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Let me tell ya about my Nitro TC3 RTR. So far I've busted a front diff case & bent both front lower pivot balls racing (I bounced off the boards so many times, it's a wonder I didn't break more parts). Right now I am rebuilding my shocks because when I checked them after the race because the car was an ill handling beast most of the day, I found the four shocks were 4 different lengths. This is the way Thundertiger built them. When I originally got the car it was way out of adjustment, the driveshaftr was slightly bent (defective part), it had an Ace servo horn on the steering instead of the correct Associated steering servo horn which caused a slight steering bind. Most of these small problems would never bother or even be noticed if all someone did with the car is run it up & down the street or bash in parking lot. I noticed them because I READ THE MANUAL! I also bought the NTC3 Tuning Guide from Associated & read all the posts in this thread & the Radio Controlled Zone NTC3 thread. I downloaded all the setups I could find. I searched all the magazines for articles on the NTC3 and made an informed decision to get this car. The small defects in the RTR cost me about $20.00 to fix (a new main drive shaft, a new steering servo horn set, shock oil, green slime, & a shock rebuild kit to correct the shocks). So far damaged parts from racing have cost me $14.00 (diff case & front pivot balls). Yes I had to spend a little time readjusting the car to correct the misalligned front end it came with out of the box with but that's a normal part of prepping the car. If I had checked the shock lengths before the race, I might not have had my hands full with the car most of the day. Several more experienced racers helped me sort out the car somewhat at the track so the day was not a total loss.

Guess What I STILL LOVE THIS CAR!!! It is one of the most adjustable cars I've seen. I'm stil trying to figure some things out on the car but that's racing. I am upgrading the AE RTR/Thundertiger engine with a Team Head, removing the pullstart & installing the non-pull backplate kit, and installing a used OS 10C slide carb to help wake the motor up after I get a little better handle on the car's handling (along with tossing in a two speed). Most of the 1/10th nitro touring cars at my local track are NTC3's and they are the cars to beat. Also most of these cars don't have a lot of "Bling-Bling" on them. They are mostly stock and just fly around the track.

So if you want to give up on the car to go with something else, fine. All that means is at the next Big Race, I'll be fighting it out in the A main with the other NTC3's & the guys who dump the car will be watching or marshalling my race

Bill (NTC3 RTR)
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:56 PM   #3026
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Quote:
Originally posted by GP40X
Let me tell ya about my Nitro TC3 RTR. So far I've busted a front diff case & bent both front lower pivot balls racing (I bounced off the boards so many times, it's a wonder I didn't break more parts). Right now I am rebuilding my shocks because when I checked them after the race because the car was an ill handling beast most of the day, I found the four shocks were 4 different lengths. This is the way Thundertiger built them. When I originally got the car it was way out of adjustment, the driveshaftr was slightly bent (defective part), it had an Ace servo horn on the steering instead of the correct Associated steering servo horn which caused a slight steering bind. Most of these small problems would never bother or even be noticed if all someone did with the car is run it up & down the street or bash in parking lot. I noticed them because I READ THE MANUAL! I also bought the NTC3 Tuning Guide from Associated & read all the posts in this thread & the Radio Controlled Zone NTC3 thread. I downloaded all the setups I could find. I searched all the magazines for articles on the NTC3 and made an informed decision to get this car. The small defects in the RTR cost me about $20.00 to fix (a new main drive shaft, a new steering servo horn set, shock oil, green slime, & a shock rebuild kit to correct the shocks). So far damaged parts from racing have cost me $14.00 (diff case & front pivot balls). Yes I had to spend a little time readjusting the car to correct the misalligned front end it came with out of the box with but that's a normal part of prepping the car. If I had checked the shock lengths before the race, I might not have had my hands full with the car most of the day. Several more experienced racers helped me sort out the car somewhat at the track so the day was not a total loss.

Guess What I STILL LOVE THIS CAR!!! It is one of the most adjustable cars I've seen. I'm stil trying to figure some things out on the car but that's racing. I am upgrading the AE RTR/Thundertiger engine with a Team Head, removing the pullstart & installing the non-pull backplate kit, and installing a used OS 10C slide carb to help wake the motor up after I get a little better handle on the car's handling (along with tossing in a two speed). Most of the 1/10th nitro touring cars at my local track are NTC3's and they are the cars to beat. Also most of these cars don't have a lot of "Bling-Bling" on them. They are mostly stock and just fly around the track.

So if you want to give up on the car to go with something else, fine. All that means is at the next Big Race, I'll be fighting it out in the A main with the other NTC3's & the guys who dump the car will be watching or marshalling my race

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

if your racing,the best thing you can get for the car is "THE FIX" shock tower screws..look a few pages back for the details..or go to Ebay and punch in tc3 the fix ....Email Jim reeves and he'll tell you how to get them..best 25 bucks you can spend..

good luck in your racing..(btw,I've foung this car likes harder compund tires.....(instead of HPI 27's that I had on everything else I own,I ran this car on 33's..all the way through last september...
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:56 PM   #3027
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Quote:
Originally posted by GP40X
To all the guys having overheating problems



Hopefully, we're not missing something basic here. When you install an engine in the car, are you checking the cylinder head orientation and turning the cylinder head 90 degrees to get it to cool properly if the center cooling slot is not facing front to rear? Remember, Novarossi, Picco, et.al. engines usually have a single cooling slot cut in the fins on the inside of the head to get air to the center of the head to cool the glow plug area. These engines are built to bolt right in belt drive cars like the Mugen, Reflex, etc... These engines mount sideways (crank snout points toward the right side of the car) instead of pointing in the aft/rear position like the NTC3 ( & the new Hong Nor/OFNA LD3). If the slot in the head that cools the center of the head is at a 90 degree angle to the crank & it is in a NTC3, there is no air going through the center of the head. I remember seeing earlier in this thread & in the NTC3 thread over at the radio controlled zone that the guys having overheating problems turned the head 90 degrees on the engine to get airflow though the head properly & their overheating problems were gone. HTH

Bill (NTC3 RTR)
i belive this may be the answer i just turned my heat sink around and before in races with the heat sink as is was when it comeout of the box,the engie would flame out and when restarted have the same simptoms as a blown glow plug and i can see why now becasue there is no air flow on the glow plug itself

thank u for bringin that up

and all the garbage about there being soo many problems have been blown out of proportion

the tank is easy fixed , the pipe is changeabul and the weakness deal is a bit far fetched

and if u r worried about it go buy some alloy suspention parts from RD Logics or something (mind u they are very good )
do the toe link mods (if u cant keep the ass end off the boards)

fix it up, help people out, and quit bitching
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:09 PM   #3028
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another thing does the freezer trick work with the stock se ae pipe ???? got a few dents from the corrner makers ( the coner markers are these plow disks)

i was just wondering will it split the pipe apart at the joins ????
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:55 PM   #3029
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Quote:
if your racing,the best thing you can get for the car is "THE FIX" shock tower screws..look a few pages back for the details..or go to Ebay and punch in tc3 the fix ....Email Jim reeves and he'll tell you how to get them..best 25 bucks you can spend..

good luck in your racing..(btw,I've foung this car likes harder compund tires.....(instead of HPI 27's that I had on everything else I own,I ran this car on 33's..all the way through last september...
Thanks Fastharry, I've already contacted Jim & it turns out one of the local guys at our track just got a dozen sets in so I'll be there bright and early Sunday morning with the cash in hand to get them installed before qualifying. We run on a sugar water prepared Asphalt parking lot so we all run foam tires. Right now I'm trying out a set of Ellegi 40 shore foams (26mm front & 30mm rears) and am trying to dial the car in with those. I used to race 1/10th electric Dirt Oval at the Indoor Track in Richland Hills about 12 years ago so I'm not a total newbe but Nitro is definitely different.

Quote:
and all the garbage about there being soo many problems have been blown out of proportion

the tank is easy fixed , the pipe is changeabul and the weakness deal is a bit far fetched
Brett, I hit the boards so many times at the last race, if the car was as fragile as some people say it is I would have had to buy a complete new kit just for parts. I had to hit the board very hard to break the diff case & hit so hard so many times I bent both front lower pivot balls. Since this is the RTR, it has steel outdrives instead of the MIP Aluminum CVDS. I didn't bend a single outdrive all day. I think a lot of the problems with the cars being fragile is due to the guys who have to add ALL the team parts thinking that will make them faster before they have learned to stay off the boards.

Here is a quote from the last Team Associated Newsletter:

Quote:
The carbon composite or graphite parts are favored by experienced drivers because they are stiffer, not because they are less resistant to breakage. Being stiffer, they are more responsive to the driver's control. We recommend you use the molded composite parts until you learn to keep off the boards. The molded composite parts have more flex.
I think that pretty much explains why people are breaking parts right & left. The only weak links I've seen at our track are the diff case/shock tower issue (corrected by "The Fix") & the dogbone bending issue that can be corrected by running the MIP "Shiny CVDs." HTH

Bill (NTC3 RTR)
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Old 03-26-2003, 12:22 AM   #3030
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I just ran at the Revelation Airtronics Spring Challenge and there was a TON of breakage and a TON of complaining about weak cars. (I wasn't one of those - I complained about the guy that introduced me to Mr. Wall. . .)

What most of those people didn't realize is that these cars go FAST - and at a track like Revelation, they go REAL FAST (anyone hasn't seen it, Rev is really built for 1/8th scales. . .) and most all of the wreckage was done in high speed areas. Duh, it's gonna break.

It was funny to talk to several NTC3 owners who swore they were going to sell their cars because they were fragile (I talked to one who is going to go back to his other car because he drove it better. . .it fit him better. . .that was a good reason) - I laughed when they saw 6 out of 9 1/8th scale EXPERTS break in the same spots that they broke. . . too funny. The abuse we can put our cars through and still keep them driving. . . I drove about 5 minutes with a broken shock tower . . .

Anyway, no real point, just spewing forth words.
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