2LikesRc10ntc3
03-24-2003, 08:00 PM
#2971
Tech Elite
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Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
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Originally posted by spongebob
How do you tell if you have the new or old tank? Is there a different part number or even better can you post a picture of it and the old one?
How do you tell if you have the new or old tank? Is there a different part number or even better can you post a picture of it and the old one?
the new tank has the pressure lead in the cap...
very important also....make sure you route the fuel line exactly like is says in the manual..
03-24-2003, 08:13 PM
#2972
That means I have the old tank. 
Thanks
Thanks
03-24-2003, 08:28 PM
#2973
Tech Elite
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Originally posted by Yokomo_King
well have you guys Tryed the AE After market kooling head? if so should i get 1?and i dontk now what you guys are talking abuot engine problems cuz my engine runs at a smooth temp of 260-75 i cant get it any lower or i wont have good enough top
well have you guys Tryed the AE After market kooling head? if so should i get 1?and i dontk now what you guys are talking abuot engine problems cuz my engine runs at a smooth temp of 260-75 i cant get it any lower or i wont have good enough top
Is this man saying anything different that what I said?...
and I'm not trying to insult those of you that are having problems....and I'm not saying because of the RE pipe te engine may be a little trickier to get right......but heres a secret for you..
you know how the AE guys were putting the line in the front of the Dual chamber pipe?.....belive it or now,that location gives MORE pressure....(and thats from AE)....
there are a ton of these cars running all over the world..and they are not having problems.....and when I go racing,I see more people who cant get an engine to run in a Impulse or HPI....
has everyone got the tanks mounted on O rings?.....(and not to tight?)......got the pressure line laying flat?..and you have enough of it(AE wants a minimum of 10 inches)....and if you think there is a problem,send the part to associated and have them check it(esp a bad tank,new or old style)...
03-24-2003, 09:14 PM
#2974
Registered User
That's not how I take it man! You are saying I and many can't tune, and don't follow instructions. I have been a engine rebuilder and fabricator for over 25 years. You have not a clue! Why are you even here? You've done nothing but cut me and others down since you left the HPI NTC3 Forum. Do us all a favor! GO AWAY!
Your of no help to us!! well at least not me! BB
Your of no help to us!! well at least not me! BB
03-24-2003, 09:22 PM
#2975
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
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you are taking this way to personal......Go back and read how many people have not had a problem..in fact,when was teh last time someone even mentioned it,last year?(with the old tank?)......and I'm not saying you don't have a particular problem in your case....but you guys make it sound like the car is fundamentally flawed,and its not....and thats what annoys me....I love this car,and have not had the problem,as the the guys I race with haven't either..(and that includes the pit man for a certain world champion I know)
and your not the only person on this forum with some type of motor expertise....but since you have so much of it,why not call Associated and discuss it with them..maybe they can help you..
I'm not leaving..but if you hate the car that much,you should consider it..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=15231
nuff said....
and your not the only person on this forum with some type of motor expertise....but since you have so much of it,why not call Associated and discuss it with them..maybe they can help you..
I'm not leaving..but if you hate the car that much,you should consider it..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=15231
nuff said....
Last edited by fastharry™; 03-24-2003 at 09:50 PM.
03-24-2003, 09:34 PM
#2976
Guys! I just bought a dule chamber pipe! getting my self ready for the summer race! (can't wait!!) I run RB X.12 and I run about 250 to 270degrees on my motor. It run perfect! never have any problem with it!! I was just wondering if I put the dule chamber pipe in ..do I have to retune my motor?? if so..will I have to run it richer or leaner?? I hope dule chamber pipe give me more power as what people said..
Thanks.
Thanks.
03-24-2003, 09:42 PM
#2977
Tech Elite
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Originally posted by superk
Guys! I just bought a dule chamber pipe! getting my self ready for the summer race! (can't wait!!) I run RB X.12 and I run about 250 to 270degrees on my motor. It run perfect! never have any problem with it!! I was just wondering if I put the dule chamber pipe in ..do I have to retune my motor?? if so..will I have to run it richer or leaner?? I hope dule chamber pipe give me more power as what people said..
Thanks.
Guys! I just bought a dule chamber pipe! getting my self ready for the summer race! (can't wait!!) I run RB X.12 and I run about 250 to 270degrees on my motor. It run perfect! never have any problem with it!! I was just wondering if I put the dule chamber pipe in ..do I have to retune my motor?? if so..will I have to run it richer or leaner?? I hope dule chamber pipe give me more power as what people said..
Thanks.
now,are you SURE your car runs good?....( sorry,I mean perfect?)
and to answer your question.....any time you make a performance mod its a good idea to keep an eye on the engine tune,and re do if needed.....I'm trying the dually pipe myself in another month...but I'm gonna leave it in the same tune as last year to start...don't forget,weather conditions also play a part in how a 2 cycle engine runs,so considering yor starting a new year running,you might go richer or leaner on that fact alone...
Last edited by fastharry™; 03-24-2003 at 09:47 PM.
03-24-2003, 10:11 PM
#2978
It would run fine for half of the tank then lean out heaps as soon as it got to the top of the stone filter in the tank - There would be air in the fuel line.
How to solve this problem? I have the same problems with my rtr tank. Actually what is the minimum lengh for fuel line and pressure line? btw I'm using sirio engine.
03-24-2003, 10:29 PM
#2979
How to solve this problem? I have the same problems with my rtr tank. Actually what is the minimum lengh for fuel line and pressure line? btw I'm using sirio engine.
You can send it in or whatever but its less hassle just to buy a new tank.
03-24-2003, 10:46 PM
#2980
Originally posted by fastharry
Is this man saying anything different that what I said?...
and I'm not trying to insult those of you that are having problems....and I'm not saying because of the RE pipe te engine may be a little trickier to get right......but heres a secret for you..
you know how the AE guys were putting the line in the front of the Dual chamber pipe?.....belive it or now,that location gives MORE pressure....(and thats from AE)....
there are a ton of these cars running all over the world..and they are not having problems.....and when I go racing,I see more people who cant get an engine to run in a Impulse or HPI....
has everyone got the tanks mounted on O rings?.....(and not to tight?)......got the pressure line laying flat?..and you have enough of it(AE wants a minimum of 10 inches)....and if you think there is a problem,send the part to associated and have them check it(esp a bad tank,new or old style)...
Is this man saying anything different that what I said?...
and I'm not trying to insult those of you that are having problems....and I'm not saying because of the RE pipe te engine may be a little trickier to get right......but heres a secret for you..
you know how the AE guys were putting the line in the front of the Dual chamber pipe?.....belive it or now,that location gives MORE pressure....(and thats from AE)....
there are a ton of these cars running all over the world..and they are not having problems.....and when I go racing,I see more people who cant get an engine to run in a Impulse or HPI....
has everyone got the tanks mounted on O rings?.....(and not to tight?)......got the pressure line laying flat?..and you have enough of it(AE wants a minimum of 10 inches)....and if you think there is a problem,send the part to associated and have them check it(esp a bad tank,new or old style)...
03-24-2003, 10:50 PM
#2981
Buy a new tank. Problem solved.
Thats right but it would be nice if I know what is the cause of the problems and preventive action taken especially during race.
03-24-2003, 10:57 PM
#2982
Originally posted by fastharry
the new tank has the pressure lead in the cap...
very important also....make sure you route the fuel line exactly like is says in the manual..
the new tank has the pressure lead in the cap...
very important also....make sure you route the fuel line exactly like is says in the manual..
03-25-2003, 01:03 AM
#2983
IT'S THE CLUTCH!!
Just another possibility or factor concerning the "Problem".
On small or tight tracks with good traction, the stock 2-shoe Teflon clutch (even the 3-shoe) glaze over easily and then start to slip too much. All the slipping loads/strains the engine causing it to run hot and cause tuning problems like vapor lock/boil off in the carb, crank, etc.. This also can happen on big tracks which require lots of hard acceleration coming out of turns. The Teflon shoes are designed to slip giving a smooth engagement which is good for slick tracks but high traction tracks cause too much slipping causing glazing. I can't even tell you how many times I had to clean up my clutch shoes and clutchbell with sandpaper. Having heated ar dumped into the carb and running foam tires doesn't help either.
Switching to the MIP carbon clutch or the "Centax" style clutch should reduce or hopefully eliminate the "Problem".
A racer at our local track was having problems with his engine cutting out and running hot recently so he decided to change his clutch to a Kawahara "Centax". His car ran perfect the next race weekend. BTW, this particular racer is the current state champ on and off road.
Just something to think about
...................
On small or tight tracks with good traction, the stock 2-shoe Teflon clutch (even the 3-shoe) glaze over easily and then start to slip too much. All the slipping loads/strains the engine causing it to run hot and cause tuning problems like vapor lock/boil off in the carb, crank, etc.. This also can happen on big tracks which require lots of hard acceleration coming out of turns. The Teflon shoes are designed to slip giving a smooth engagement which is good for slick tracks but high traction tracks cause too much slipping causing glazing. I can't even tell you how many times I had to clean up my clutch shoes and clutchbell with sandpaper. Having heated ar dumped into the carb and running foam tires doesn't help either.
Switching to the MIP carbon clutch or the "Centax" style clutch should reduce or hopefully eliminate the "Problem".
A racer at our local track was having problems with his engine cutting out and running hot recently so he decided to change his clutch to a Kawahara "Centax". His car ran perfect the next race weekend. BTW, this particular racer is the current state champ on and off road.
Just something to think about
...................
03-25-2003, 01:42 AM
#2984
Re: IT'S THE CLUTCH!!
Originally posted by FREAKAH
Just another possibility or factor concerning the "Problem".
On small or tight tracks with good traction, the stock 2-shoe Teflon clutch (even the 3-shoe) glaze over easily and then start to slip too much. All the slipping loads/strains the engine causing it to run hot and cause tuning problems like vapor lock/boil off in the carb, crank, etc.. This also can happen on big tracks which require lots of hard acceleration coming out of turns. The Teflon shoes are designed to slip giving a smooth engagement which is good for slick tracks but high traction tracks cause too much slipping causing glazing. I can't even tell you how many times I had to clean up my clutch shoes and clutchbell with sandpaper. Having heated ar dumped into the carb and running foam tires doesn't help either.
Switching to the MIP carbon clutch or the "Centax" style clutch should reduce or hopefully eliminate the "Problem".
A racer at our local track was having problems with his engine cutting out and running hot recently so he decided to change his clutch to a Kawahara "Centax". His car ran perfect the next race weekend. BTW, this particular racer is the current state champ on and off road.
Just something to think about...................
Just another possibility or factor concerning the "Problem".
On small or tight tracks with good traction, the stock 2-shoe Teflon clutch (even the 3-shoe) glaze over easily and then start to slip too much. All the slipping loads/strains the engine causing it to run hot and cause tuning problems like vapor lock/boil off in the carb, crank, etc.. This also can happen on big tracks which require lots of hard acceleration coming out of turns. The Teflon shoes are designed to slip giving a smooth engagement which is good for slick tracks but high traction tracks cause too much slipping causing glazing. I can't even tell you how many times I had to clean up my clutch shoes and clutchbell with sandpaper. Having heated ar dumped into the carb and running foam tires doesn't help either.
Switching to the MIP carbon clutch or the "Centax" style clutch should reduce or hopefully eliminate the "Problem".
A racer at our local track was having problems with his engine cutting out and running hot recently so he decided to change his clutch to a Kawahara "Centax". His car ran perfect the next race weekend. BTW, this particular racer is the current state champ on and off road.
Just something to think about
...................
i think you could have a good point there because it also seems to be a clutch problem as well!, i am thinking of getting the kawahara clutch set for mine.
03-25-2003, 02:04 AM
#2985
thought you would of picked up the clutch problem mugen kid, your are a guru of nitro cars aren,t ya