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Old 03-14-2003, 10:18 PM   #2851
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Looks like Ofna took knock off to a whole new level. The new pics on the ofna site makes it look almost interchangeable with the NTC3. The tank sure looks good..
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Old 03-15-2003, 06:01 PM   #2852
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anyone here knows the size of the screw thats on the servo( futaba 9404). Its the screw that hold the servo arm. Is it ok to apply threadlock on it because I already lost 2 screws? Are u guys using rubber grommets for the servo? Also where can I buy the rx battery (separate because Im going to make it myself) AND the glow plug battery ( sanyo cadnica kr-1300sc). I called the 2 LHS here and they both told me that they dont have those parts. Homedepot, walmart etc. would be better but if they don't have those I'll just have to order them online. thnx

btw what's the maximum current (maH) that I should have on rx battery?
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Old 03-15-2003, 06:03 PM   #2853
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thnx modellor
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Old 03-15-2003, 07:09 PM   #2854
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Hi,
I will be getting a nitro tc3 rtr at the end of this month and i cant wait! My first nitro I have an electric right now 1/10 scale. The first thing is i will practice and get to learn the car but after that i will be racing later on and i wanted to know what are the best hop ups for the car arms, hubs, engine, electronics, batteries, Pipe, Tools, chassis, etc.. There are so many hop up parts made by so many different companies and i dont know which one to choose from?!? Graphite, Aluminum etc... I will also be needing setups... If you guys would be kind enough please list some things that are at top quality and worth the money Thank you Very much I appriciate it

Can I find anyplace that have the parts to these cars and what they used like in electronics and hop ups?!?! Ive seen the pictures but i got no idea what the parts are and from which company Anyone know anywhere that shows the parts used in either one of these cars?

Barry Baker's TQ NTC3

Mark Pavidis' winning NTC3

Thank you
Cheers
I hope im not asking too much
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Old 03-15-2003, 10:21 PM   #2855
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Quote:
Originally posted by drive4fun
Hi,
I will be getting a nitro tc3 rtr at the end of this month and i cant wait! My first nitro I have an electric right now 1/10 scale. The first thing is i will practice and get to learn the car but after that i will be racing later on and i wanted to know what are the best hop ups for the car arms, hubs, engine, electronics, batteries, Pipe, Tools, chassis, etc.. There are so many hop up parts made by so many different companies and i dont know which one to choose from?!? Graphite, Aluminum etc... I will also be needing setups... If you guys would be kind enough please list some things that are at top quality and worth the money Thank you Very much I appriciate it

Can I find anyplace that have the parts to these cars and what they used like in electronics and hop ups?!?! Ive seen the pictures but i got no idea what the parts are and from which company Anyone know anywhere that shows the parts used in either one of these cars?

Barry Baker's TQ NTC3

Mark Pavidis' winning NTC3

Thank you
Cheers
I hope im not asking too much
Good Choice on the rtr ntc3, but I think probably the team kit might be better. Anyway for hop-up I would first go for the graphite upgrade kit, two speed, then convert the car to non-pullstart. I have to say when I first got the team kit, starting my engine was like a nightmear, later I converted the car to non-pullsatart, I think it was the best hop up I ever added on the car, it pretty much start everytime. But it do cost a bit much, for a new engine, a starter box, and other part that is require for the conversion. But if you don't want to spent that much then, I would get some light weighted part for the transmission. Some parts on Mark ntc3 you would be able to find it at towerhobbies.com and type in ntc3 to search. You then would be able to find many part for the car. Well I hope I can answer some of your question, anyway best of luck on your new car!
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Old 03-15-2003, 10:35 PM   #2856
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Default Starter Boxes

I've had a NTC3 since last summer and I have yet to run the car.Now the season of gas racing is upon us so I need a starter box. I am looking at a Dynamite ultra starter box for inline motors. I am not sure if this box will work. The NTC3 motor placement puts the fly wheel close to the rear wheel. The starter box seems to be designed for a mid fly wheel placement. Has anyone used this box? Or should I just buy the Associated starter box. The price of the dynamite version is very good (super sale)
Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-15-2003, 10:53 PM   #2857
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Default Re: Starter Boxes

Quote:
Originally posted by Toothless9
I've had a NTC3 since last summer and I have yet to run the car.Now the season of gas racing is upon us so I need a starter box. I am looking at a Dynamite ultra starter box for inline motors. I am not sure if this box will work. The NTC3 motor placement puts the fly wheel close to the rear wheel. The starter box seems to be designed for a mid fly wheel placement. Has anyone used this box? Or should I just buy the Associated starter box. The price of the dynamite version is very good (super sale)
Thanks for the help.
Personally I would go for the Associated starter box, is very adjustable. If the Dynamite box can't turn the flywheel to 90 degree then it probably won't work well. The only two box that I know that will work for the Ntc3 is the AE version and the Ofna multi. If I'm wrong then I hope somebody can correct me. Thanx!
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Old 03-15-2003, 11:21 PM   #2858
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I just bought a asc hd one way it did not have a white gear regular looking gear it had a hd on it in silver paint were do you get white gear caled 10 hobby shops only the gray black looking gears please help.
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Old 03-15-2003, 11:31 PM   #2859
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Default Re: Starter Boxes

Quote:
Originally posted by Toothless9
I've had a NTC3 since last summer and I have yet to run the car.Now the season of gas racing is upon us so I need a starter box. I am looking at a Dynamite ultra starter box for inline motors. I am not sure if this box will work. The NTC3 motor placement puts the fly wheel close to the rear wheel. The starter box seems to be designed for a mid fly wheel placement. Has anyone used this box? Or should I just buy the Associated starter box. The price of the dynamite version is very good (super sale)
Thanks for the help.
I would get the NTC3 starter box with a 12v bateery you can't go wrong there. It is the perfect setup for this car.
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Old 03-16-2003, 12:24 AM   #2860
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
Looks like Ofna took knock off to a whole new level. The new pics on the ofna site makes it look almost interchangeable with the NTC3. The tank sure looks good..
You missed the first two pages of the Ofna LD3 thread. . .it was dedicated to the incredible copycatting of the LD3. . .but I AM interested in the rear suspension setup. . .lowers the roll-center.

It was funny listening to the justifications. . ."it's no more a copy of the NTC3 than the TC3 was of the Tamiya. . ."

Anyway, check out the first couple of pages.
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Old 03-16-2003, 12:37 AM   #2861
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Quote:
Originally posted by drive4fun
Hi,
I will be getting a nitro tc3 rtr at the end of this month and i cant wait! My first nitro I have an electric right now 1/10 scale. The first thing is i will practice and get to learn the car but after that i will be racing later on and i wanted to know what are the best hop ups for the car arms, hubs, engine, electronics, batteries, Pipe, Tools, chassis, etc.. There are so many hop up parts made by so many different companies and i dont know which one to choose from?!? Graphite, Aluminum etc... I will also be needing setups... If you guys would be kind enough please list some things that are at top quality and worth the money Thank you Very much I appriciate it

Can I find anyplace that have the parts to these cars and what they used like in electronics and hop ups?!?! Ive seen the pictures but i got no idea what the parts are and from which company Anyone know anywhere that shows the parts used in either one of these cars?

Barry Baker's TQ NTC3

Mark Pavidis' winning NTC3

Thank you
Cheers
I hope im not asking too much
First things first:

1. replace ALL turnbuckles with Titanium. Use Lunsfords, they work great. Remember that the rear toe links are the thicker off-road style ones. . .also, for the rear links, try and get ones that are just a tad longer than the stock ones. That way they will fill the ball caps and you won't compress them if you tag a wall.

2. replace the stock servo-saver spring with the spring from the off-road Nitro Truck slipper clutch. (can't remember the part number off-hand. . .) It still works as intended but gives you a LOT better steering reaction and will actually hold going around corners.

3. Reinforce your shock towers. Look back through this thread (a long way back) and you can see how it's done. I use 1/8th" aluminum tubing (thicker walled) cut to .55" and a 1 1/4" 4x40 screw with a washer. . . You really need to see a pic. . . Just look back a bit.

4. Convert from pull-start to non. Get a starter box and convert. Unless you NEED that wrist exercise. . .

5. Install an RPM front bumper. This is a no-brainer.

6. Move to the two-speed - DON"T do this until you are ready for the speed. I trophied twice at big races without ever shifting once. . .mostly because a lot of people who did found walls while in 2nd gear. . .and I had complete control the entire time.

If you go this route, you will have a more solid car, a more durable car and a more reactive car. It's made my car a LOT more solid and I'm still running about 90% stock and running well with it (when I pay attention to my pit guy and don't run out of gas. . . )

I've yet to convert to graphite and I'm not too sure about it's worth at over $60. I would wait until you're a lot more controlled - if you run electric then you know how brittle graphite is.

As far as hopup parts, you can get them at most LHS's or at speedtechrc.com or stormerhobbies.com or a TON of other places.

I hope this helps!
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Old 03-16-2003, 04:14 AM   #2862
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Hey Guys,
I am a little confused about the setup of the front and rear diff's on the NTC3.

In the associated manual it says to loosen the front diff and tighten the rear diff for more steering.

I have been chasing more steering, and the only way i have found is to tighten the front diff and loosen the rear- the opposite of what associated are saying.

Has associated got it wrong in the manual? Or am i going crazy.

I am now running the front at 1/4 turn out and the rear at 1/2 turn out and there is much more steering.

Let me know what you think.
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Old 03-16-2003, 06:23 AM   #2863
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Default More Steering

If you want to get more steering try taking a little toe in out of the rear of the car. Go to 1 degree on either side or less. I think I ended up at a half degree on either side and the car was still very solid in the rear. Just another thing to try. Good luck.

Jon
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Old 03-16-2003, 06:33 AM   #2864
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THANK YOU ALL WOW I REALLY APPRICIATE ALL YOUR GUYS HELP AND IF YOU GOT MORE TO SAY THEN GO AHEAD MORE THE BETTER I really didnt expect so many replies but keep it coming hehe im making my list already hehe thank you all again
cheers

ps. KEEP IT COMING
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Old 03-16-2003, 02:34 PM   #2865
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If i go any less than 3 degrees of rear toe in the back end steps out when i go around a corner. I am really just after differential settings.
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