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Old 02-23-2003, 11:45 AM   #2596
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Default Steering linkage

Would this work: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD610&P=0 ?

This for the front steering only(4-40), not the rear. It shouldn't affect ackermann or anything like that right? Currently, I'm using RPM 4-40 ballcups for the steering hubs and stock cups for the bellcrank area. Does that change steering geometry too?
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Old 02-23-2003, 12:55 PM   #2597
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You would have to make sure it's spaced UP enough to be at the right height, but it shouldn't make a negative difference. It should work just fine.
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Old 02-23-2003, 01:05 PM   #2598
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Can any of you guys tell me whether Associated have different springs for the 2 speed gearbox. I am looking for softer springs to get better adjustability of the change point.

Yes, I run a modified gearbox on my Yokomo and it uses Associated shoes and adjusting screws/springs.

Thanks for the help
modeller..they don't..but next time I call,I'll be sure to double check...BTW,are you having trouble shifting,or is it erratic?...

we've noticed that when your running foams on the tc3,if tires dust gets inside the 2 sp housing,it causes it change shift points..
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Old 02-23-2003, 02:38 PM   #2599
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Im HAving PRoblems with my 2spd I could hear that i just wants to stay in first not shift. I just Fresh rebuilt and adjusted the screws but it would shift into Second Please what do i need to do!!! and any Gearing for Crystal race way and setup i forgot the last one hahah thanks for the help
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Old 02-23-2003, 04:46 PM   #2600
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Simon, you got p.m.
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Old 02-24-2003, 06:14 AM   #2601
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
modeller..they don't..but next time I call,I'll be sure to double check...BTW,are you having trouble shifting,or is it erratic?...

we've noticed that when your running foams on the tc3,if tires dust gets inside the 2 sp housing,it causes it change shift points..
Yeah, Having problems shifting when on the track. When I adjust and do a change check before putting the car down it changes but its late. I have the screws right out (any further and they will be hitting the hub).

I stripped it down last night to check for dust and build up and the whole thing was spotless. I think the springs are too heavy for the gearing I'm having to run at our track.

The engine is really screaming yet still nothing.
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Old 02-24-2003, 09:29 AM   #2602
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modellor - Try turning the screws that hold the springs down out about 1/2 a turn. Just make sure screws dont' touch the inside of the 2nd gear hub. I've never had to do this with my NTC3 but I have had to do this with my Yokomo (Serpent 2spd conversion). It should work fine after that.
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Old 02-24-2003, 11:45 AM   #2603
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Default foam tyres

i tried running my foam tyres this sunday i got a set of ATS work well but i was thinking when you put camber on the car ie 1-degree but will the foams not wear down to 0-degree and if so would it not be better to start with 0-degrees also my foams are getting chunks out of them on the outside anyone have problems like me? also is there better foam tyres out there at the same good price ..... wht type of shores does everyone use? the ones i bought seem alot harder on the front the tyres on the front havent wore down much while the ones on the rear are nearly down to the plastic! would it not be better to get the same shore front and back??

thanks in advance! Deano
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Old 02-24-2003, 01:23 PM   #2604
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i used ellegi tires pretty good for the price. i bought a set for like $33 thats cheap. what ive been seeing is that the pros uses 40s all around for alot of tracks.
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Old 02-24-2003, 06:55 PM   #2605
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The reason your tires are chunking on the outside is that your running too few camber, you need to have at least 2 degrees of camber. You should pick front and rear tires that are pretty close on shores, like 40s and 37s or 45s and 42s. It also depends on the brand what wear rate you get, TRCs wear faster than any tire I have ever tried, the mugens get great wear, Im trying the Jacos Nitro shoes right now and they wear very well too. Wear also depends on the surface, but I wont get into that.

Thanks,

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Last edited by nitrodude; 02-24-2003 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 02-24-2003, 06:57 PM   #2606
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Default Re: foam tyres

Quote:
Originally posted by deanspoors
i tried running my foam tyres this sunday i got a set of ATS work well but i was thinking when you put camber on the car ie 1-degree but will the foams not wear down to 0-degree and if so would it not be better to start with 0-degrees also my foams are getting chunks out of them on the outside anyone have problems like me? also is there better foam tyres out there at the same good price ..... wht type of shores does everyone use? the ones i bought seem alot harder on the front the tyres on the front havent wore down much while the ones on the rear are nearly down to the plastic! would it not be better to get the same shore front and back??

thanks in advance! Deano
The camber isn't for the tires, it's for the suspension. The tires will tend to "cone" a bit, but that's fairly normal. From what I have seen 2deg is about max. I can't say that I would go "at least" 2deg. I'm running 1.5deg right now and that works well for me.

As you turn, you compress the suspension and the tire wants to deform with the lateral forces. Camber fights the deformation and it changes the more the suspension is compressed (the only time it wouldn't would be if the upper and lower arms were absolutely parallel. . .).

Chunks are fairly normal. You need to stay off the boards even more with foams than you do with rubber tires. If you catch a board right (or wrong) it will chunck your tires. Just think, you're running in the 40s - in my Pro10 I'm running 25-28. . .much easier to chunk.

I think we get UFRAs around here (can never remember the brand) and they're $13 a pair. . .best price I've seen.

nearly always use a harder tire on the front - 45/40 seems to be fairly typical. It's what I'm using now and I like it lots. Most people use a split like that. I've played with 45/42 and 45/38. I don't notice a big difference. . .that's saying that any difference I notice is prolly all in my head.

You will nearly always go through rears faster than fronts. It's normal. Did you notice a difference in handling when your rears started getting smaller than your fronts? Not a huge size smaller, just maybe a mil? Overdrive - I like it!
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Last edited by Boomer; 02-24-2003 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 02-24-2003, 07:44 PM   #2607
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Default Hey nitrodude

Where's the pics of the modded diffs? Got any plans to make an extra slot on the outdrives like the X-Ray? The diff outdrives form a notch fairly quick. I tried using the IRS pin cushions, but those darn pins start to slide off over time and the nylon pice that covers it, forms it's own notch or just plain tears right off.

Has anyone seen Niftech's swivel pins for Assoc drive shafts? Neat idea, but like all other Niftech stuff, waaay too expensive.
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Old 02-24-2003, 07:52 PM   #2608
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I will make them ASAP, but Im very busy at work, so it might be a couple more weeks. Sorry guys.

Thanks,

Steven Muller
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Old 02-24-2003, 09:05 PM   #2609
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Quote:
Originally posted by rod_b
modellor - Try turning the screws that hold the springs down out about 1/2 a turn. Just make sure screws dont' touch the inside of the 2nd gear hub. I've never had to do this with my NTC3 but I have had to do this with my Yokomo (Serpent 2spd conversion). It should work fine after that.
I have been running Smittys Serpent Conversion for a year now and am now using his Yokomo/Associated shoe gearbox conversion.

I never had any problems with the Serpent gearbox. Was used to it from running Neo and Serpent cars.

I am going to try using a cut spring from a Parker Pen. But I think it might be too soft
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Old 02-24-2003, 11:09 PM   #2610
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
I have been running Smittys Serpent Conversion for a year now and am now using his Yokomo/Associated shoe gearbox conversion.

I never had any problems with the Serpent gearbox. Was used to it from running Neo and Serpent cars.

I am going to try using a cut spring from a Parker Pen. But I think it might be too soft
I don't know to what extent of modification the Serpent gearbox you're using but I figure the reason that it fits like a glove on the GT4 is because the rollout is the same on the Serpent and the GT4. The setting of the 2nd speed shifting is the same.

The NTC3 on the other hand has a different rollout. Internal ratio is 2.5 if I'm not mistaken. I gather that the springs in the NTC3 gearbox will be more stiff because the spurs spin fatster. When you put the NTC3 gearbox in a GT4, the engine needs to wind up real high before the 2nd speed engages.

Why not try to put Serpent springs back in the NTC3 gearbox and see what happens?
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