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Old 02-17-2003, 08:30 AM   #2506
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If it is poping off that bad, then I guess something is whacking you pretty hard.
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Old 02-17-2003, 08:31 AM   #2507
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keep us posted on what parts..in fact,I'll slip a few bucks in the mail..Send 'em
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Old 02-17-2003, 09:06 AM   #2508
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Angry POPPING OFF

Quote:
Originally posted by sook
If it is poping off that bad, then I guess something is whacking you pretty hard.
you said "whacking"

It`s just one of those annoying things that takes you out of a race...pop off has only happened to me twice once by me , once by being rear ended, anything that can be done to the car to keep it together is a good thing [B]
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Old 02-17-2003, 10:02 AM   #2509
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I've actually found that you can pop a ballcup off just by swinging the back end against a board just right. It puts enough pressure IN on the tie rod to pop off the cup. Usually a quick enough fix and you can be on your way. . .

NTC3 - those look GREAT. Gonna get me some and get it done. . .are the two nuts (one above and one below) for spacing?
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Old 02-17-2003, 10:39 AM   #2510
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Anyone know if the MIP clutch, is tuneable with the pins like the other MIP clutches? It does'nt look like it, it looks like it only has one hole for tuning instead of 3.

NTC3NUT: What was the length on the Lunsford turnbuckles you made those with? 1.175? and are they 3mm diameter buckles? Or 3.5mm? I used Ofna captured ball ends with Serpent #1648 short ball ends. You have to file the ball ends out alittle, so the #6 srew will fit through them. I used some 1/8th scale buckles I had with a different thread and I have had no more compression problems, but your way, the turnbuckles are screwed all the way in, so no compression, Right? I used allen head Stainless screws with #3 flatwashers instead of studs and nuts.

You guys will have to use ball ends with a short shoulder on them like the #1648 Serpents, or space the captured ends up some to get the correct travel you'll need.

Last edited by bbntc3; 02-17-2003 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:39 PM   #2511
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Quote:
Originally posted by penggoy
hi guys can u pls help me out. I disassemble and change the front ballcups on my steering (2 front and 1 connected to servo). But when I put my radio tray back into my NTC3 I hear sound coming out of my steering servo (ko 2173). But when I disconnected my servo from the steering linkage I cant hear anymore sound.Could it be the steering turnbuckles (left and right) are too tight? Or the turnbuckle connected to my servo is the problem? thnx
pls pls help me
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Old 02-17-2003, 04:19 PM   #2512
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Ok, Let me see if I can get everything together for you guys:

- Lunsford "Punisher" turnbuckles, 1.750" long, I believe they are 3.5mm in diameter

- 8 Associated blue aluminum 4/40 lock nuts, use 4 of them to lock the screws into place (and space the rod ends), the other 4 are to hold the rod ends on & prevent popping off

- 4 captured rod ends, brand doesn't matter, these are "Rocket City", you will more than likely have to use a 1/8" drill bit to ream out the threaded portion for the oversized "Punisher" turnbuckles

- 2-4/40 button head screws, 2-4/40 countersunk screws, all 3/4" I believe

You will have to cut the "lip" off the rear "bumper", as shown in the photo's, for proper clearance of the rod ends. The rod ends are completely tightend down, so no compression.

I think it'll work out even better with the Mugen parts. I'll be using 3mm screws, with threaded (internally) captured ball ends. It'll look much cleaner, and require less parts. I'll post pics of that as soon as I have it done.

If I haven't covered everything let me know, good luck.
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Old 02-17-2003, 04:24 PM   #2513
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Is that a digital servo? If so even under the slightest load you will hear noise coming from the servo. Also, you could not be lined up properly. One more thing to look at is if the connecting rod to the servo touches anything. Mine was so close that if I turned the rod a certain way. the point would rub as I turned the steering. Hope this helps
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Old 02-17-2003, 04:25 PM   #2514
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hey nut,did you like "the fix"..I know we went through this 3 weeks ago,but I jsut got done digging out of a blizzard in NJ..I'm dizzy..
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Old 02-17-2003, 04:27 PM   #2515
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Yup, Here's a photo for you, with the RD Logics upper caes installed.
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File Type: jpg ebay items 011.jpg (60.1 KB, 177 views)
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Old 02-17-2003, 04:29 PM   #2516
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ok..the guys good to deal with?..I'll email him off his ebay link...
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Old 02-17-2003, 04:40 PM   #2517
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Yeah, He posts here, I just can't think of his screen name right off. E-mail him and he'll hook you up with a set (front & rear) for $25 including shipping. I know alot of guys here have made them up themselves for less, I just didn't want the hassle, and this stuff is really nice.
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Old 02-17-2003, 05:12 PM   #2518
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do I need them front and back..or will front suffice...we use firehose,and in all honesty,I've never even broken anything..but nothing is too good for my baby..
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Old 02-17-2003, 05:19 PM   #2519
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Probably not, all I've ever run on are heavy boarded tracks. I think they're like $12.95 for the one pair. Time for dinner!
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Old 02-17-2003, 08:48 PM   #2520
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Default Initial test of Dynamite setup

I was pleasantly suprised with the set up. I did not loose any top end it even seems more responsive and faster. I did a back to back test with the AE pipe setup and the Dynamite setup for comparison. I also let the engine cool down so I can get close to the AE run. The engine did run a little cooler compared to the AE setup, about 10-15 degrees cooler and the sound is just so sweet. I guess I will be staying with the Dynamite setup since I am very happy with the results but don't take my word for it, the header is cheap and if you have a pipe laying around then you can check it out for yourself. This header is probably even better for the folks with the stinger setup, they would just have to cut the appropriate length to accomodate the stinger pipe.
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