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Old 02-07-2003, 08:01 PM   #2371
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Brett, The screws on the shock towers are "The Fix" screws that you can pick up on Ebay. The uppers are machined 1-piece aluminum, with an exact fit. The 1-1/4"or 1-1/2" steel screws come all the way up thru the transmission case from the bottom of the car. Its a very solid set-up not requiring tubes of any type. I bought the set (front & rear) for $25 shipped. A few of the other racers here have made a similar set-up themselves for less, I just liked how this was done. Very simple and clean. The only issue I have with the car now is the rear toe-links. I have purchased captured ball ends, and longer Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles. I think this will prevent compression, and the popping off of the rod-ends. I will wait for AE, or another source, to come out with the delrin gears, then I'll go back to the new Yokomo one-way. Other than that I am ready to go.
Did you try looking for nuts that have normal and reverse threading for the turnbuckle? That will stop the turnbuckle and links from compressing but it might do more damage to other parts if you do smack the boards.
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Old 02-07-2003, 08:39 PM   #2372
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Hey all you guys on the RD Lodgic kick, How come none of you are using the shocktowers?
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Old 02-07-2003, 09:24 PM   #2373
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brett
we dont have a tyer class here

we can run what we want aslong as its no bigger than 32mm wide

i run the rubber on our small tight concrete tracks and the foam on our bigger asphalt tracks

and at both tracks the ntc3 with a cx12ps has beaten all the pro class running mtx3's with jps3's, v1rr's with s3's and so on

mind u wining on both foam and rubber

what that tell ya






that ntc3 RULE
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Old 02-08-2003, 02:28 AM   #2374
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Quote:
Did you try looking for nuts that have normal and reverse threading for the turnbuckle?
I think everyone here has tried looking for the reverse nuts at one time or another, but they are hard to find locally, without having a machine shop make them. I was going to try backing up the ball cups with smaller PRM plastic nuts (that way the thread wouldn't matter), but there wasn't enough thread exposed to hold it tight enough. The Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles I bought are 1.750", and the FT titanium that it's replacing is 1.585". That's long enough so that when I set-up my car with 2deg. rear toe-in, the turnbuckle is completely threaded into the ball cup. That way it cannot compress. Then the only issue you have is it popping off in a collision. You can solve that with a captured rod end. Right now I have 2 types, a cheep set from Traxxas (for a T-Maxx believe it or not), and a set from GS, which are basically the same. I have reamed out the plastic end for the oversize turnbuckles (1/8" drill bit), but I still have to drill out the captured balls, for the large screws that are required to replace the oversize AE ball studs. I have tried doing this a few different ways, but it's very difficult to do by hand without damaging the ball itself. I will post pics as soon as I have it done.

I wanted to add that the captured balls need to be drilled with a 9/64" bit, so that the proper size screws will go thru smoothly.

Last edited by NTC3NUT; 02-08-2003 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 02-08-2003, 11:50 AM   #2375
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Default confused?!?

hi peoples can anyone remember a person going on about porting his manifold on his tc3? he had two pics one not ported and the one ported
anyway.... i think this mod wont make any differance what-so-ever! because the gap in the manifold efore porting is larger than the gap in the engine outlet my mate has checked with a digital measuring guage! ..... just my say what do yous think? has anyone done this?
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Old 02-08-2003, 11:54 AM   #2376
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That was NTC3 nut, and here is his picture. The only difference it makes it it allows for a slightly better flow by stopping the exhaust gasses from getting "stuck" on the unported edge. It helps a bit, but it's not going to be the difference between first and second place...
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File Type: jpg mods 001.jpg (59.9 KB, 153 views)
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Old 02-08-2003, 01:27 PM   #2377
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Thumbs up flow

Quote:
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
The only difference it makes it it allows for a slightly better flow by stopping the exhaust gasses from getting "stuck" on the unported edge.

It all helps with flow.....nice work on the exhaust manifold that will compliment any work done on the engine internals
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Old 02-08-2003, 02:36 PM   #2378
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Default gearing

what gearing would you guys recomend for a carpark about 120 metres long? what about a 6 tooth split? i have the normal 22-26 --- 50-54 thanks-dean
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Old 02-08-2003, 02:46 PM   #2379
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The highest you can get or you'll leave your piston somewhere down the main straight before the days out. lol.

Thats far to long for these little engines. The biggest anywhere is around 70 - 75m
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Old 02-08-2003, 08:40 PM   #2380
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Hey all you guys on the RD Lodgic kick, How come none of you are using the shocktowers?
I tryed to use mine, but couldn't get them to fit. The right side upper arm mounting possition put the arm to low, resulting in the arm interfearing with the drive shaft.

I'm also going to have to take the paint off of the bearing races in the case to get them to tighten down correctly. When tightening the cases together, the feel of the bearings went to heck.
Has anyone else had any problems? I think that the quality is there, things just need to be tweaked at bit. After all, don't they say, if it bolts right on, it isn't fast.
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Old 02-08-2003, 08:55 PM   #2381
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jwf_frani please say something thats gunna make it all better

mines meant to be heer on wednesday and i want tit to be perfect

Striker "The right side upper arm mounting possition put the arm to low, resulting in the arm interfearing with the drive shaft."
"I'm also going to have to take the paint off of the bearing races in the case to get them to tighten down correctly. When tightening the cases together, the feel of the bearings went to heck."
i dont get ya man plese explain
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Old 02-08-2003, 09:27 PM   #2382
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deanspoors: Your buds right on the exhaust outlet. I checked it all the same way, it has no real effect on performance to me at all, I have mani's both ways. ported and unported. The way I see it the edge on the inside was put there by Ae to help seal the exhaust gasket is all. The lip or edge is the exact diameter of the engine exhaust outlet with the rubber gasket installed. I guess with the edge removed you know for sure theres no exhaust restrictions.The main exhaust restrictor to worry about is that big ugly bladder pipe on the side of the car.

Striker: Quality is there just no quality control huh? What do you mean remove the paint? They are not anodized? They are painted?

Last edited by bbntc3; 02-08-2003 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 02-08-2003, 09:48 PM   #2383
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i dont see how the anodising is gunna make that much of a difference because the tibkets u can get is like 16 microns
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Old 02-08-2003, 10:18 PM   #2384
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striker send the defective part back and i'm sure rd will take
care of it as for the diff cases some will have a little clearance
issues due to the cases are formed from casting but nothing
drastic that can't be tweaked at home with sand paper or some
times just taking the shims of the side of the diffs. even the
plastic ae ones are not all the same this is just magnified due
to the material is aluminum and stays true. me personally
i just use the diff case and the chasis and the car feels rock
solid i still have to finish putting it together. brett ive checked
my diff cases and it fits fine. if you guys are having a problem
ill try to help just let me know and i'll try to accomodate you
or let the owner know if i can't fix it personally.
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Old 02-08-2003, 10:49 PM   #2385
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cheers mate

so have ya found out if we need shims for the diff caes yet or not ????? or was that what u where refering to in you last post ?????
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