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Old 01-23-2003, 01:48 PM   #2131
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Yeah it mounts just like the stock tank with O-rings and adds a 4th O-ring near the end of the tank. The bubbles don't run across the whole line, just a small area. But I noticed the high-speed leaning with this tank compared to the stocker.

I got this tank cuz it looks like a real fuel tank and looks more durable with real pressure fittings. The only weird thing about the K Factory tank is the fuel pick-up. It points toward the pipe and is not adjustable.
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Old 01-23-2003, 04:17 PM   #2132
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
Boomer...what lunsfords did you change to?....also,what caps,and did you modify in any way....thanks
I used the off-road ones (they're thicker) and I just got some that were the right length - I don't remember what the length is.

I used the original RPM cups for a bit, but they weren't snug anymore so I got new ones so the threads would cut in nice and new. . . now they're nice and snug.
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Old 01-23-2003, 05:02 PM   #2133
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can some one give me A web page were I can see the whole line of K factory products the one way and sway bar for ntc3
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Old 01-23-2003, 05:12 PM   #2134
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www.kfactoryracing.com
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Old 01-23-2003, 05:36 PM   #2135
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tanks dude
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Old 01-23-2003, 06:33 PM   #2136
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Speedtech's got the best one way, the Yokomo...although its kinda hard to find....

I forgot I ahve this picture of the Dynamite exhaust...[IMG]DYN6626-250[/IMG]
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Old 01-25-2003, 08:00 AM   #2137
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every time I run A yok one way I strip the diff gear and bevel gear
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Old 01-25-2003, 08:49 AM   #2138
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ilaybrk......try shimming the gears closer together a few thousandths of a inch by using the bearing shims that come in the stock kit for the ball diff (can't remember the P/N) USUALLY stripping the gears is a sign of the gears not meshing properly
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Old 01-25-2003, 09:40 AM   #2139
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Quote:
Originally posted by ilaybrk
every time I run A yok one way I strip the diff gear and bevel gear
So do I. Question is how long(minutes) did take? I just built up my front yok one-way and diff case last night and for me with new gears it only rotates w/o grind when built with 2 front 1 rear. I also noticed that with this case using both shims on either side of the regular diff causes it to drag really bad, there is no slop and it rolls free with no shims. Basically as anyone who races the electric tc3 knows, the instructions are only a suggestion. Best to fit it whenever possible to check the backlash. I did notice that the solid had just about the right backlash. The yoke was too loose or too tight. I'll probably run it a few times then shim it all the way in, and if that doen't work replace the gears after 30 minutes of run time.
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:47 PM   #2140
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has any one tried the K factory one way
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:47 AM   #2141
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Why bother. Looks like AE oneway with small one way bearings.
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Old 01-26-2003, 11:40 AM   #2142
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
I used the off-road ones (they're thicker) and I just got some that were the right length - I don't remember what the length is.

I used the original RPM cups for a bit, but they weren't snug anymore so I got new ones so the threads would cut in nice and new. . . now they're nice and snug.

thanks boomer..so you basically took up all the play inside the cups with longer rods.....Good job...

I have to be honest..I don't know why teh tc3 nitro gets a bad rap...all ten of us,on our 125 x 120 course,with RB 3 a 5 port turbos,have pounded these cars over a 5 month period,and I mean pounded.......no blown diffs,gears.....I hade a 30 mph t bone from Impulse aqnd cracked my tank,but after my roll pin trick,its held up great...MY RE muffler is peppered with small dings from side shots,and I still have the same tank....as far as sock towers loosening,I started with a new gearbox.....RED loctited teh shock tower screws with a 3mm screw in teh middle hole....Has not even come close to getting loose.....thats it...

the car stays in perfect tweak......I have 2 hard gallons through it,and it runs great......I had built a second car to run if I ever broke the first..never even touched it....I don't get it.....

the guys running Impulses and reflexes had more problems than we did....Belts,out of tweak,hard to set up....always changing tires to tune...centax relubes,solid front axle cups(the ONLY way an impulse has any steering..)....

Last edited by fastharry™; 01-26-2003 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:16 PM   #2143
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I think your track may not be big enough to expose the gear problems. The average speed isn't high enough. There is only one place I have gone through gears and that was a very big and fast track (270 X 150?) and when it was very hot in the summer(no prob in spring).
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:19 PM   #2144
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I agree FastHarry. I have had my NTC3 since Sept and have run almost a gallon of fuel since new. I have yet to break anything also and I have had a few hard hits. I t-boned my friends HPI car so hard it knocked his receiver batteries over 30 feet away. No broken pieces except for the header (side-exhaust) where I barrel-rolled it into a curb. I bought an OS Hyper CV15 and it's still on the 1st glow plug and this is the same one I broke it in with. I am truly impressed with it so far. The only money I've spent so far are for a few upgrades and tires. It's nice to not break something everytime you fire it up. Makes that money useful for other stuff such as a starter box, Sirio, etc., etc.......
Just my .02 worth. Rick
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:23 PM   #2145
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well,then I guess I have no problems then.....and you know what?....associateds cars aren't the only one s with problems due to large tracks.....but teh bottom line is,under conditions that probably 1% of racers will see,some of tehm might have a problem....but I;ll take a "might have" problem on a FAST car any day....

esp. since any car under extreme coditions can fail...Just ask Ralph Burch...
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