2LikesRc10ntc3
12-31-2002, 10:19 AM
#1997
Tech Apprentice
Fuel line & Bodyshells
Hi i have two questions,
1. What length should the fuel line be to get optimum performance? What is everyone else using?
2. is anyone out there using a low style bodyshell like a HPI-Lola or GT-0NE and what modifacations would i need to make to fit such a shell > also any picks of the mods made for bodyshell or the bodyshell on the car would be great just to get an idea of what it would look like!
Thanx, Dean
1. What length should the fuel line be to get optimum performance? What is everyone else using?
2. is anyone out there using a low style bodyshell like a HPI-Lola or GT-0NE and what modifacations would i need to make to fit such a shell > also any picks of the mods made for bodyshell or the bodyshell on the car would be great just to get an idea of what it would look like!
Thanx, Dean
12-31-2002, 10:26 AM
#1998
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I don't think there are any problems with the AE dual chamber pipe. Look at AE's record on TQ runs with this set-up. None of the other manufacturers cars are any faster, reguardless of engine, gearing, or exhaust set-ups. At best they are all equal. The fastest sedan radared at our track last year was Brian Berrys Serpent, with a Salven tuned .12. The best he could muster down the straight was around 54mph, and that looked ungodly fast. Josh Cyruls 1/8 scale was doing 64-65mph and thats like a track record. We have several club racers with NTC3's & box stock MT-12's that run around 52-53mph on a regular basis, with the single chamber & dual chamber pipe. The only mods to the cars are to the stock exhaust manifolds. Everything else is gearing & clutch work. I still think these cars are awesome, at the least as good as anything else out there.
I don't think there are any problems with the AE dual chamber pipe. Look at AE's record on TQ runs with this set-up. None of the other manufacturers cars are any faster, reguardless of engine, gearing, or exhaust set-ups. At best they are all equal. The fastest sedan radared at our track last year was Brian Berrys Serpent, with a Salven tuned .12. The best he could muster down the straight was around 54mph, and that looked ungodly fast. Josh Cyruls 1/8 scale was doing 64-65mph and thats like a track record. We have several club racers with NTC3's & box stock MT-12's that run around 52-53mph on a regular basis, with the single chamber & dual chamber pipe. The only mods to the cars are to the stock exhaust manifolds. Everything else is gearing & clutch work. I still think these cars are awesome, at the least as good as anything else out there.
12-31-2002, 04:18 PM
#1999
Originally posted by herb
In February me and my friends will race at the Winternats in Ft. Myers. As we are coming over from Holland to drive the Sedan class with our NTC3's we are not sure which engine restrictions there are for our .12 engines. I expect they use the ROAR rules, but i'm not familiar with the actual rules for next season. Maybe someone can help me......
I know that the WinerNats is running 200mm... engnie restrictions are : 3 port turbos with non-turbo plugs... 4 door bodies, I'm not sure about the gearing, but I'm trying a 20/25 (its green, I think its 25) and 48/54 first, I have all the gears in my box...they're not expensive. I've been using the 2.1 ProtoForm Stratus, it's great. Also, I really like the STS 3 port turbo engine I'm running, I think its just as good as the JP 3PT engine. And 40'shore tires all around.
In February me and my friends will race at the Winternats in Ft. Myers. As we are coming over from Holland to drive the Sedan class with our NTC3's we are not sure which engine restrictions there are for our .12 engines. I expect they use the ROAR rules, but i'm not familiar with the actual rules for next season. Maybe someone can help me......
I know that the WinerNats is running 200mm... engnie restrictions are : 3 port turbos with non-turbo plugs... 4 door bodies, I'm not sure about the gearing, but I'm trying a 20/25 (its green, I think its 25) and 48/54 first, I have all the gears in my box...they're not expensive. I've been using the 2.1 ProtoForm Stratus, it's great. Also, I really like the STS 3 port turbo engine I'm running, I think its just as good as the JP 3PT engine. And 40'shore tires all around.
12-31-2002, 04:40 PM
#2000
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by theRED5
Originally posted by herb
In February me and my friends will race at the Winternats in Ft. Myers. As we are coming over from Holland to drive the Sedan class with our NTC3's we are not sure which engine restrictions there are for our .12 engines. I expect they use the ROAR rules, but i'm not familiar with the actual rules for next season. Maybe someone can help me......
I know that the WinerNats is running 200mm... engnie restrictions are : 3 port turbos with non-turbo plugs... 4 door bodies, I'm not sure about the gearing, but I'm trying a 20/25 (its green, I think its 25) and 48/54 first, I have all the gears in my box...they're not expensive. I've been using the 2.1 ProtoForm Stratus, it's great. Also, I really like the STS 3 port turbo engine I'm running, I think its just as good as the JP 3PT engine. And 40'shore tires all around.
Originally posted by herb
In February me and my friends will race at the Winternats in Ft. Myers. As we are coming over from Holland to drive the Sedan class with our NTC3's we are not sure which engine restrictions there are for our .12 engines. I expect they use the ROAR rules, but i'm not familiar with the actual rules for next season. Maybe someone can help me......
I know that the WinerNats is running 200mm... engnie restrictions are : 3 port turbos with non-turbo plugs... 4 door bodies, I'm not sure about the gearing, but I'm trying a 20/25 (its green, I think its 25) and 48/54 first, I have all the gears in my box...they're not expensive. I've been using the 2.1 ProtoForm Stratus, it's great. Also, I really like the STS 3 port turbo engine I'm running, I think its just as good as the JP 3PT engine. And 40'shore tires all around.
12-31-2002, 09:09 PM
#2001
(what track was Brian Berry the fastest with a salven tuned .12?)
The serpent guys ran Jtech modifieds last year not salven tuned stockers.
Herb and RED5 bring lots of spare parts. The track is brutal on cars, Chances are you will use more parts at the winternats than you will use most of the season at any other track. Pipes,arms uprights, axles, tires and bodies are expendable bigtime. when you see the steel boards around the track you will under stand. you will also find respect for the S in the front straight that becomes a launch pad for cars onto the concrete berm. I have seen several guys totally destroy (beyond rebuildable)an 1/8 th car right there including michael salven. Do not underestimate the brutality of this track. There are no close parts sources in many cases. Tires tires tires. I destroyed two 15 engines due to accidents and mishaps there last year. Used 8 lower rear arms on my impact. If you get in the marbles and slide into the boards your car will lose.
The serpent guys ran Jtech modifieds last year not salven tuned stockers.
Herb and RED5 bring lots of spare parts. The track is brutal on cars, Chances are you will use more parts at the winternats than you will use most of the season at any other track. Pipes,arms uprights, axles, tires and bodies are expendable bigtime. when you see the steel boards around the track you will under stand. you will also find respect for the S in the front straight that becomes a launch pad for cars onto the concrete berm. I have seen several guys totally destroy (beyond rebuildable)an 1/8 th car right there including michael salven. Do not underestimate the brutality of this track. There are no close parts sources in many cases. Tires tires tires. I destroyed two 15 engines due to accidents and mishaps there last year. Used 8 lower rear arms on my impact. If you get in the marbles and slide into the boards your car will lose.
01-01-2003, 02:03 AM
#2003
i do. TRS for my rotary carb on my FE. i have a spring between the carb arm and the engine block mount.
for a slide carb, you can try wrapping a rubber band around the whole carb.
for a slide carb, you can try wrapping a rubber band around the whole carb.
01-01-2003, 02:05 AM
#2004
o and despite contrary belief, you don't want the TRS to be able to close the carb when the servo link is connected. the TRS should only be strong enough to pull the carb closed if the servo linkage disconnects from the carb. If you want protection against low rx battery power, use a failsafe.
01-01-2003, 07:46 AM
#2005
sorry torch you are absolutely wrong... what happens if the servo dies... what does a failsafe do for you then? Nothing! what you could do is put a second return spring on the servo arm that is strong enough to pull the servo back to nuetral with the one on the carb there in case the linkage comes off. with the power these things make and the speed they can achieve you can never be too safe.
Jon
Jon
01-01-2003, 11:54 AM
#2006
Stripped 2nd gear spur
Since I got the car a few months ago, I never stripped any spur gears. And in the last two weeks I stripped 3 2nd gear(48t) spurs. I always loctite my engine mount screws. The lifespan of the second spur gear lasted a few tanks so I tightened up the mesh a bit. It helped somewhat cuz it lasted maybe 15-20 tanks, but that still shouldn't happen. The spur gear seems to strip right at the tips, it looks like the tips got bent at an angle and would cause inconsistent shifting. Eventually, it would completely strip at the tips. My first spur gear lasted maybe 3-4 gallons. Weird thing is, I never stripped the 1st gear spur yet.
01-01-2003, 02:01 PM
#2007
Re: Stripped 2nd gear spur
Originally posted by BOLISARIO
Since I got the car a few months ago, I never stripped any spur gears. And in the last two weeks I stripped 3 2nd gear(48t) spurs. I always loctite my engine mount screws. The lifespan of the second spur gear lasted a few tanks so I tightened up the mesh a bit. It helped somewhat cuz it lasted maybe 15-20 tanks, but that still shouldn't happen. The spur gear seems to strip right at the tips, it looks like the tips got bent at an angle and would cause inconsistent shifting. Eventually, it would completely strip at the tips. My first spur gear lasted maybe 3-4 gallons. Weird thing is, I never stripped the 1st gear spur yet.
Since I got the car a few months ago, I never stripped any spur gears. And in the last two weeks I stripped 3 2nd gear(48t) spurs. I always loctite my engine mount screws. The lifespan of the second spur gear lasted a few tanks so I tightened up the mesh a bit. It helped somewhat cuz it lasted maybe 15-20 tanks, but that still shouldn't happen. The spur gear seems to strip right at the tips, it looks like the tips got bent at an angle and would cause inconsistent shifting. Eventually, it would completely strip at the tips. My first spur gear lasted maybe 3-4 gallons. Weird thing is, I never stripped the 1st gear spur yet.
- Bad mesh between gears. If you strip the gear at the tip maybe you're meshing too loose the gears.
- Odd shift combinations. Using 5 tooth leap on 4 or 6 tooth leaps, this meshing is tricky, but possible.
- Your 2nd gear pinion is damaged and this makes you ruin the spurs.
- Maybe the 2nd speed hub bearing don't works correctly, lube it with a suitable oil for bearings I use Trinity royal bearing for all my bearings and works without problems. One way bearings are other kind of animal, need a quite different oil, on these, the best by far is the Serpent one. A bottle can last years (mine has almost 3 years now and it's plenty of oil).
01-01-2003, 02:31 PM
#2008
Originally posted by Swen
sorry torch you are absolutely wrong... what happens if the servo dies... what does a failsafe do for you then? Nothing! what you could do is put a second return spring on the servo arm that is strong enough to pull the servo back to nuetral with the one on the carb there in case the linkage comes off. with the power these things make and the speed they can achieve you can never be too safe.
Jon
sorry torch you are absolutely wrong... what happens if the servo dies... what does a failsafe do for you then? Nothing! what you could do is put a second return spring on the servo arm that is strong enough to pull the servo back to nuetral with the one on the carb there in case the linkage comes off. with the power these things make and the speed they can achieve you can never be too safe.
Jon
putting such a strong spring stresses the servo excessively and results in the servo consuming a lot more battery....
you need a weak TRS AND a failsafe.
01-01-2003, 11:55 PM
#2009
Thanks for the warning Dennis, yeah, I've been there, not to WinterNats but to a club race...spent most of the time on track trying to keep from getting run over by 8th scalers. I hear that they have fixed alot of things, like the wall height going on to the sweeper before the straight, car used to disappear under the wall.
Chuck
Chuck
01-02-2003, 04:18 AM
#2010
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by theRED5
Thanks for the warning Dennis, yeah, I've been there, not to WinterNats but to a club race...spent most of the time on track trying to keep from getting run over by 8th scalers. I hear that they have fixed alot of things, like the wall height going on to the sweeper before the straight, car used to disappear under the wall.
Chuck
Thanks for the warning Dennis, yeah, I've been there, not to WinterNats but to a club race...spent most of the time on track trying to keep from getting run over by 8th scalers. I hear that they have fixed alot of things, like the wall height going on to the sweeper before the straight, car used to disappear under the wall.
Chuck