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Old 12-30-2002, 09:48 AM   #1981
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Heres the exhaust pics of mine again, it maybe some help for you guys interested. The car is better balanced and has more rear traction. The pipe on the car is a MIP Stinger rear outlet. Its a good short track pipe with tons of bottom end, The other is a Rex pipe that Dennis came up with, very high rpm and long track design.
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Old 12-30-2002, 09:55 AM   #1982
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I 've made many different types of pipe combo's for the car and these 2 are the best deal I have came up with so far.

Note: You guys ever stripped ring and pinions out of the NTC3 yet? With these pipes and a Richey you will have to be careful! It will ripped the gears out of the diff with more than a 5 tooth split in gearing, I've even striped them with a 4 tooth split! I never had these problems with the Ae pipes. You have to kinda baby it when it shifts!

Where's the damn delrin gears?

Heres another view:
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Old 12-30-2002, 10:01 AM   #1983
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Heres the exhaust pics of mine again, it maybe some help for you guys interested. The car is better balanced and has more rear traction. The pipe on the car is a MIP Stinger rear outlet. Its a good short track pipe with tons of bottom end, The other is a Rex pipe that Dennis came up with, very high rpm and long track design.
What part no. is that Rex pipe? Planning to do some test with a side exhaust engine 'slightly prepped'.
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Old 12-30-2002, 10:10 AM   #1984
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Yes it's a REX pipe don't know the part #. Maybe if Dennis reads this he can give you the part #.
Side exhaust engines is where its at on the NTC3 , the exhaust, vibration, and fuel problem almost all go away! But the side engines just don't seem to have that little extra kick the rears do!

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Old 12-30-2002, 10:13 AM   #1985
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For people still running the AE pipes do you arun with the header actually in the pipe or did you cut it so that they don't touch? just curious about that. I cut mine but I run it like the old pipe where there is about an 1/8 inch between the header and pipe.

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Old 12-30-2002, 10:25 AM   #1986
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swen
For people still running the AE pipes do you arun with the header actually in the pipe or did you cut it so that they don't touch? just curious about that. I cut mine but I run it like the old pipe where there is about an 1/8 inch between the header and pipe.
Jon:

Measure 8 or 9mm from the side that connects to the pipe and cut with a dremel. Some time ago NTC3NUT posted some photographs about this modifications (porting and cutting). Search it and see. If you don't find them, ask for them and I'll post them.

For all: I picked the original PDF manuals and attached to them, modifications, improvements, comments about parts and many little tricks. If anyone is interested on them, PM with the e-mail address and I'll send them. Ever is improving and changing, when I find a good trick I'll attach to the manual and issue a new version.

Very interesting for those who start with their NTC3 and want to see/know all the dirty tricks. Attention: the complete manual comes in three parts and is about 9Mb (photos included).
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Old 12-30-2002, 01:21 PM   #1987
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I don't think there are any problems with the AE dual chamber pipe. Look at AE's record on TQ runs with this set-up. None of the other manufacturers cars are any faster, reguardless of engine, gearing, or exhaust set-ups. At best they are all equal. The fastest sedan radared at our track last year was Brian Berrys Serpent, with a Salven tuned .12. The best he could muster down the straight was around 54mph, and that looked ungodly fast. Josh Cyruls 1/8 scale was doing 64-65mph and thats like a track record. We have several club racers with NTC3's & box stock MT-12's that run around 52-53mph on a regular basis, with the single chamber & dual chamber pipe. The only mods to the cars are to the stock exhaust manifolds. Everything else is gearing & clutch work. I still think these cars are awesome, at the least as good as anything else out there.
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:15 PM   #1988
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Upcoming Winternats

In February me and my friends will race at the Winternats in Ft. Myers. As we are coming over from Holland to drive the Sedan class with our NTC3's we are not sure which engine restrictions there are for our .12 engines. I expect they use the ROAR rules, but i'm not familiar with the actual rules for next season. Maybe someone can help me......
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Old 12-30-2002, 05:39 PM   #1989
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bbntc3: how do you actually fit the pipe inthe middle of the car?


i saw your pics but i dont really unberstand it completely.


heres my tc3...


i noticed i needed hard rear springs to stay in control and hold the driving lines..


copper rear and front red....i also notice when i first start the engine with a full tank, the car take a while to clear up...or it will choke and die.

another thing i noticed is there is lots of smoke coming out from the pipe ... but i know i'm running lean... ( the RB 5 engine was taken out from my brothers mtx3-- no tuning issue) wonder why?

how can a lean engine still have plenty of white smoke? i cant figure why....

i'm gonna try 52/48 wuth the 22/26 gearing for my sirio 3 port engine soon..


but the way i'm running a VDS \ LOLA cover.
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Old 12-30-2002, 06:29 PM   #1990
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Fuse: Flip the stock mani over the other way drill new holes for exhaust spring. Port it out, remove 7 to 8mm length of mani. You will also have to bend it alittle to work it as close as you can to the head. Buy a ofna exhaust coupler, its the longer one with a 45 on the other end, install it all and cut coupler to the length you want. I made the rear hanger for the MIP pipe and used the spare bolt hole in the diff case to mt. it.
The Rex pipe and mani. is different it has been cut off at the exhaust flange at the head shortened as short as you can get it. Cut off the stinger on the Rex pipe and tap the hole 1/8th NPT. plug the hole with a 1/8th inch pipe plug. move to rear of pipe drill hole and tap it where you want the outlet 1/8th NPT again. Find or tap a piece of alum tubing 1/8th NPT and thread it in. Make sure you get the tubing somewhere between 5mm and 5.5mm ID so you can drill it to the size you want. I think Roar limit is 5.5mm inside diameter.
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Old 12-30-2002, 08:42 PM   #1991
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The NTC3 is a awesome ride! no doubt! The only diff I can see from the Ae pipes is the dual pipe has better bottom end and smoother accelleration. 54 MPH is the fastest I have seen my car, with stock pipes or center exhaust. The center exhaust to me just seems to get up to top speed alittle faster and hold rpm's better. That maybe just me, I dunno?
My goal was to get the exhaust as far away from the fuel tank as possible, lower fuel temps, get the left side of the chassis off the pavement to where it was'nt dragging when in high speed turns,(less chassis roll), more rear traction, and get rid of that ugly AE pipe!
If the stock pipe, chassis, fuel tank and shocktower mounting is ok for you then run it! It just did'nt get it for me!

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Old 12-30-2002, 10:55 PM   #1992
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Thumbs down Re: Upcoming Winternats

Quote:
Originally posted by herb
In February me and my friends will race at the Winternats in Ft. Myers. As we are coming over from Holland to drive the Sedan class with our NTC3's we are not sure which engine restrictions there are for our .12 engines. I expect they use the ROAR rules, but i'm not familiar with the actual rules for next season. Maybe someone can help me......
Last I saw Winternats doesn't have a 200 mm class. (Otherwise I'd be there!)
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Old 12-30-2002, 10:57 PM   #1993
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Of course you'd be legal for the 235 mm class if you added some lead, and bolted in a BB .15....
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Old 12-30-2002, 11:09 PM   #1994
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I gear 20/26-54/48, with a ported & cut (1/2") manifold, a dual chamber pipe, and a JP RS12TS1. We race on an 1/8 scale track with a 200' straight. I use Jaco Nitro Shoes at their full diam., and I have one of the faster (if not the fastest) sedans at our track. My car can typically hit approx. 55mph on that back straight. That may not sound fast to some of you, but trust me it is. I have not been able to get a one-way to survive yet, so I run diffs front & rear. I tried this gearing combo with a solid rear axle and it was nearly out of control coming out of the corners, too much power with that low gearing. I tried going to 21/27-54/48, but the JP couldn't reach it's top end on the straight. Next season I am going to try a 4 tooth spilt 22/26-54/50, and see what it does.
That's Cincy gearing and too much top end for your track. It will go faster by gearing down on 2nd. That's a 270' straight there. and the 27/48 there was with ~60-62 mm dia tires, and mine got faster as the tire dia decreased from that.
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Old 12-30-2002, 11:24 PM   #1995
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OB 200 mm is a class this year at the winternats.

Herb go to the roarracing.com website and you can down load the rule book in pdf. everyone here runs 30% most of the time. Terry prather of BK usually ships fuel down there.

Make your TC3 pipe as short as possible. If your running the dual chamber plug the stock pressure hole and drill a new one in the rear baffle. This will lower the pressure and smooth it out. the engine will run way more consistant and the engine will tune much easier and be less needle sensitive and tank volume sensitive. That is why barrys car is that way. I know for a fact it works better.
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