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Old 12-25-2002, 10:12 PM   #1951
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Well I haven't got a chance to yet. I don't know if you guys cought this, but.... the car is my friends (we don't live together ), so I don't own it. So the car stays at his house. I just helping him out and learning some stuff for my self. I'm trying to get him to create an account on this site or atleast get him to read the forum.
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Old 12-26-2002, 12:24 AM   #1952
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
I think the tank does have a pressure fitting (a piece of fuel tubing going into the tank lid and going to the pipe?? right ). We haven't installed o-rings under the tank yet. Is there any other things that we might be able to do with the stock tank to help reduce the amount of bubbles in the fuel line going to the carb? Are there any aftermarket tanks that are a direct fit for the ntc3 that help reduce the bubble problem? Thanks!
If you can't get O-Rings, you might be able to cut fuel tubing and use that instead.
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Old 12-26-2002, 12:37 AM   #1953
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
I think the tank does have a pressure fitting (a piece of fuel tubing going into the tank lid and going to the pipe?? right ). We haven't installed o-rings under the tank yet. Is there any other things that we might be able to do with the stock tank to help reduce the amount of bubbles in the fuel line going to the carb? Are there any aftermarket tanks that are a direct fit for the ntc3 that help reduce the bubble problem? Thanks!
Try another tank. IMHO the problems are quality related as most AE problems are. IE they don't do a very good job keeping the molds fresh and looking at the parts they get from their suppliers. wherever they were getting those tanks is the problem. That's why you see some people who have problems and others that don't. I'd call AE and have them send you a new one, tell them you're having problems, or like so many others do the Mugen tank.
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Old 12-26-2002, 06:14 AM   #1954
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let me add this....aall my touring cars have some degree of bubbles and foam...Even my Impulse and reflex...and no matter what you do,so will teh tc3.....as long as you have the new style tank,mount it with the orings(like the instructions say),drive the car......and pay more attention to the tuning of the engine than the tank......half the people into nitro cars would have less problems if they would read the instructions in the box,rather then perceived problems on the internet...
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Old 12-26-2002, 06:36 AM   #1955
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I second that...
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Old 12-26-2002, 07:21 AM   #1956
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Yea man, follow instructions, change to new style tank, and all your troubles will be gone! I like that! LOL
I guess for all those people out there with NTC3 fuel troubles should go back to an old saying, "When all else fails, READ INSTRUCTIONS".
Most people who come here that don't seem to have any fuel troubles, have added 1 extra o'ring to each fuel tank mounting screw and leave the screws alittle loose. Hmm, I never read anything about that in the instruction manual!
By adding o'rings and leaving screws loose, tells me the problem is somewhere else, like vibration troubles, maybe?




Last edited by bbntc3; 12-26-2002 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 12-27-2002, 02:36 PM   #1957
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I've run my car with the Mugen tank, the stock tank and then when I changed to the GH (Golden Hobbies) chassis, didn't want to drill it for the Mugen tank. So I took a piece of touring car rubber tire insert, cut the length of the stock tank and captured it between the tank and the chassis plate, this allows the vibrations to be absorbed by the rubber. Also, put the pressure fitting in the lid of the tank, take 2 feet or so of fuel line and those fuel clip things that OFNA makes and form a circle of the fuel line, 3-4 rows tall for the pressure line off the tank. I have mine around the Rx antenna, so it doesn't move around. This reduces the pressure going TO the tank from the Pipe.

The fuel you're getting inside the body may be coming from revving the engine when the tank lid is opened, especially when you haven't moved the pressure line to the lid of the tank.
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Old 12-28-2002, 07:58 AM   #1958
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Default Pressure nipple on second chamber.

Anyone has tested it?

Did this mod two weeks ago and noticed an improvement on the runtime with the stock tank (beware: slight loss of top end).
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Old 12-28-2002, 08:15 AM   #1959
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The added runtime is due to the less fuel pressure. So when off throttle, the pipe pressure is less, and fuel will not syphon back into the pipe. Have you tried to lean the engine more now to get the top end back? You should be able to lean it more now. since you have moved the pressure fitting. The pressure fitting in the original spot caused a high speed leaning problem before and you probably had richened it to compensate.
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Old 12-28-2002, 12:08 PM   #1960
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
The added runtime is due to the less fuel pressure. So when off throttle, the pipe pressure is less, and fuel will not syphon back into the pipe. Have you tried to lean the engine more now to get the top end back? You should be able to lean it more now. since you have moved the pressure fitting. The pressure fitting in the original spot caused a high speed leaning problem before and you probably had richened it to compensate.
Thanks for the suggestion. Tomorrow if the weather goes like today I'll go for some testing and final tweaks to face the new season (starts at ends of Jan... Brrrrr!!!! too cold, expected temps below 7ºC).

BTW: Anyone with connections with the factory, can suggest them to stop doing those crude holes on the pipes and install a pressure nipple - not needed to be welded, screwed is fine - like the rest of manufacturers do? Increase on the price shouldn't be as much as impossible to accomplish.
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Old 12-28-2002, 02:07 PM   #1961
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Default 48 tooth spur

Corse-R,

Did I read somewhere you are using a 48t spur (2nd gear) with a 27T pinion? If so, what is the tooth pitch of the spur? My LHS only shows 32 pitch gears for the 48T spur (we're think it may be because the gear is kinda small) from Associated and Kimbrough. If you are running 32 pitch, have you had any problems with gear mesh? Or maybe I should ask who's spur are you using?!? Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2002, 05:42 PM   #1962
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In the latest issue of Car Action they did a article of Mark Pavidis's NTC3....where could one get them "right" and "left" handed jam nuts he used on his rear toe links.Any other ways of making this area bulletproof?
Thanks
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Old 12-28-2002, 06:42 PM   #1963
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Lowrance,
When I talked to the AE guys at the Worlds, they said they had the turnbuckles & nuts specially machined just for them. I think with a longer turnbuckle(so that the link couldn't compress), and captured rod ends(so that they couldn't pop off), you would be all set. I don't think you need to go to the extreeme that they went to.
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Old 12-28-2002, 06:51 PM   #1964
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Default Re: 48 tooth spur

Quote:
Originally posted by veesix
Corse-R,

Did I read somewhere you are using a 48t spur (2nd gear) with a 27T pinion? If so, what is the tooth pitch of the spur? My LHS only shows 32 pitch gears for the 48T spur (we're think it may be because the gear is kinda small) from Associated and Kimbrough. If you are running 32 pitch, have you had any problems with gear mesh? Or maybe I should ask who's spur are you using?!?
I'm using the stock 48 tooth that AE sells for the NTC3, I haven't had any problems with the gear mesh (ever you respect the 2, 4 or 6 tooth split that the spur gears allow). In fact I pushed the envelope testing a 5 tooth split with 54/48 spurs.
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Old 12-28-2002, 06:59 PM   #1965
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowrance
In the latest issue of Car Action they did a article of Mark Pavidis's NTC3....where could one get them "right" and "left" handed jam nuts he used on his rear toe links.Any other ways of making this area bulletproof?
Garry:

I got some stainless steel rod to machine it and make my own 'bulletproof rear toe links'.

First of all, you need to know a good machine shop who wants to do it and don't charge so much for it.

Next, you may go to McMaster Carr website ( http://www.mcmaster.com ) and order some 'taps and dies' to make your own 'Left hand' and 'Right Hand' threads and nuts. Think that you need to create the thread on the rod and on the nut (select some on aluminium ones with one size down, drill and re-create the appropiate thread type or order some at your machine shop too).

With a little work you can get your 'Bulletproff rear toe in links'. Anyone interested on doing a short series?
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