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Old 12-19-2002, 04:40 PM   #1921
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My friend is getting his NTC3 RTR tomorrow, and I'm going over to his house to help him set it up (if theres good weather, please let there be good weather please let there be good weather) . Is there any tricks that we should know for the new car? Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2002, 09:26 PM   #1922
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A hobby shop that gives me a deal is supposed to have one of the tanks for me Friday, what concerns me most is the $49.95 retail price....I ain't payin' that for a tank!!

He's ordered it from Trinity.
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Old 12-19-2002, 11:12 PM   #1923
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Default Re: cases

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Originally posted by BOLISARIO
Just tell him. They are RD Logics alumin cases. They are all over Ebay. And saw some prototypes at my LHS, Elite Hobbies. They are selling cases, shock towers, braces, and chassis. They are exact replicas of the stockers but in alumin.
i have been looking on ebay but i cant find any does anybody have a link for the alloy diff cases

i found evrything else but them
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:57 PM   #1924
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I have been run my tr all summer. Now i just got a sirio. I have be running the stock rear ext. tune pipe but i have been thinking about getting the dual chamber one. I was wondering if its worth the money or if the stock one is just as good. Thanks for any input.
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Old 12-20-2002, 08:25 PM   #1925
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0B42TC3: The fix you have purchased off E-Bay was copied off mine and a few others tower mod. I have been using the shocktower mod for months , and my towers do not come loose. I too have only broken 1 diff case and 1 shocktower, in 1 full season of racing. I wanted the cases mainly for a new car I'm building just for show. The alum cases will have to weigh more than plastic, so I feel the cases well not be of any advantages for racing, just eye candy!
The K factory tank looks sweet and will have a better CG, but unless they have changed the mounting I also think it would be a waist. The Mugen Tank and a GH chassis will cure all tuning and the washing machine effect.
Christop: The dual chamber pipe is better than the stock pipe, but over priced! One hit in the side and its junk! Thank goodness I get most AE parts at dealer cost!
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Old 12-21-2002, 12:46 PM   #1926
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Default gas tank

how are u mounting the mugen tank in the chasiss?
also do u notice iany change in the handling of the car much .
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Old 12-21-2002, 06:33 PM   #1927
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I just got back from my friends house who just got the ntc3. We started getting it ready yesterday (thread locker, stickers , tank pull, ect.). But when we tried to start it, it didn't start . We couldn't find anything wrong except the glow starter. So we went to a hobby shop and had someone help us. He told us that the glow starters that use alkaline battarys only last for like 5 minutes, he was right, that thing sucks. So we started using a nicd rechargable one and it works much better. And today we got it fully broken in, and now we can drive it !! !!!!! And holy crap that thing is fast !!! I though my electric tc3 was fast (well it is, but nothing compared to this monster )!! We only broke one glow plug. We kept finding air bubbles in the fuel line connecting to the carburater, but we can't figure out how they get there, they always seem to come when the fuel level goes below where the fuel tubing inserts the tank. Do these matter? If they do, is there any simple way to fix them? The tank was closed and I really doubt that the tank is leaking since it's brand new . Also, the dude at the hobby shop said that he just uses fuel instead of air filter oil for his air filter. Has anyone done this or think that this might not be to great of an idea? He hasn't soaked it in fuel yet though.
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:18 PM   #1928
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Stick with the air filter oil, bud. Doesn't hurt nothin and fuel is mostly a solvent (methanol) - what good is it gonna do on your air filter? The oil, bein sticky, grabs the dirt and dust - that's what your wantin!
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:37 PM   #1929
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Isuzuguy: First you will need to buy or make 2 uprights or stand offs to mt. the tank to. I think the HPI upperdeck mounting post will work. Then you will have to messure and redrill new mounting holes in the chassis, a countersinking drill bit can be purchased at most all hardware stores to countersink the screw holes in the bottom of the chassis. You will want to center the tank in its existing area but move it as far foward as possible, making sure the steering rack clears the tank when the steering is cut sharply to the right. Also move the pressure hole in the Ae bladder pipe, fill the existing hole with something like JB weld, then move and redrill a pressure hole somewhere closer to the
pipes outlet.

racerdx6: Welcome to the NTC3 fuel system troubles that some people say does'nt exist! Do yourself a favor, remove the fuel tank , go to the corner of the busyest intersection in your area and punt that sucker into the traffic! Then do the mod above!
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:47 PM   #1930
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Does your tank have the pressure nipple on the cap? If so then theres nothing wrong with your tank.Just loosen the mounting screws and use 2 o-rings underneath the tank.Also sometimes a fuel filter on the pressure helps out but it depends on the engine.
Dont go screwing up your chassis.
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:58 PM   #1931
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Drilling 2 more holes in something that was't any good to start with, could'nt hurt it! Ever wonder why you have to put extra o'rings under the tank? Too weak, too flexsy, more vibration. Hmm, Think about it.
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Old 12-22-2002, 07:36 AM   #1932
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Default tanks

tanks alots , bbntc3 can you post a couple of pictures so i can have a ideal of what its going to look like,did the mod effect the handling of the car ? did the tank stop the leaning out
is this a legal mod in the eyes of the roar assc.
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Old 12-22-2002, 09:04 AM   #1933
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Moving the tank foward and to the left alittle does help the handling, its alittle more balanced with the tank foward and alittle to the left. Moving the pressure fitting to the lid and moving the pressure tap in the pipe will also do alot of good. The stock AE pipe has too much back pressure so moving the fitting closer to stinger outlet helps this problem. The other problem is the chassis is too weak around the engine area and thus it causes much vibration and this helps cause the air bubbles you are also seeing. Most of this trouble is only with rear exhaust engines, or modded engines with massive HP, (RTU and RTO) and not side exhaust for some reason. After you get alittle use to the car, I would invest in a better chassis. You can get these for around $50, it will make a big diff! I went to one roar event last year and I was allowed to race the car with the tank and center exhaust mods, They said nothing about the tank, just checked the stinger outlets inside diameter, I mostly club race, open class.
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Old 12-22-2002, 03:05 PM   #1934
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Default Header and pipe.

Guys! I have a few questions about exhaust system for this car. Ok..Here is my probelm.

I have RB X.12 in my NTC3...and boy this motor move the car! The problem that I have is the rear exhaust manifole will not fit right on the motor..and some time it just come right out. It will not go in all the way. Any fix? can I port out the manifuld?

Also...I broke that exhaust pipe holder at the end of the pipe (small little nipple with the setscrew) now...I can't hold the pipe up...any other fix? I have some one trying to reweld the aluminum back fo rme. I hope that works.

Last but not least....I decided to buy the DULE CHAMBER BLUE PIPE. It looks really nice!! seem much stronger than the standard one. Any how....people told me that this pipe will make the motore for power? is it true? Also..do I have to change/ retune my motor if I put this pipe in the car?

Thanks.
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Old 12-22-2002, 07:24 PM   #1935
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Default good run

this was my first time out on a huge 1/8 track.

NTC3 with a sirio 3 port, duel chamber pipe, gear ratio 20/26 54/48

runs great and very good acceration. but when the tank is near to half, i have hipcups in the mid throttle and only when i WOT (wide open throttle ) then it clear up.

is this a fuel tank issue?

i also notice when i place a hard spring in the rear, the car drives better... red front and copper rear... just like my a 1/8 MRX3 with softer front and harder rear..

last question, what shore foams to use? i tried 35 shore all round and came back with only the rims... no foams at all. wahahah

then i tried 37 shore and i notice the rear wear way too fast.

anyone tried 40/40 shore GRP foams or the front must be harder?

please advise.
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