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Old 12-07-2002, 07:39 PM   #1831
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yeah, i wonder how many ppl sold there cars to get a mtx3 without actually seing one race?!?!?
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Old 12-07-2002, 07:40 PM   #1832
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lol, very valid point, but i guess some pplz can see if a car is good by looking at it's cad drawings
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Old 12-07-2002, 07:44 PM   #1833
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ehehheheh
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Old 12-07-2002, 07:45 PM   #1834
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lol
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Old 12-07-2002, 09:01 PM   #1835
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Old 12-08-2002, 07:36 PM   #1836
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Default NTC3 tuning - "help"

I can't seem to run my NTC3 continously, the first tank is great no problem. But when I start to refill fuel while the engine is running, the car stalls, after which I will have a hard time getting the right tuning again. Isn't it when you got the correct tuning, you don't have to re-tune it every gas refill? As I heard, if the engine is tuned right, just refill gas and you can run your car simultanously even up to five tanks non-stop. By the way, my engine was broke in already. Need your inputs please.
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Old 12-08-2002, 10:17 PM   #1837
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Once you get it tuned right, you can run it for hours and hours and it shouldn't have any problems. A properly tuned engine should not vary a lot in running temperature vs idling temperature. If you don't have a temperature gauge, I would highly suggest getting one, it makes tuning MUCH easier.

As far as your car is concerned, I had a very similar problem with my NTC3, but mine was even worse. It took me about 1/2 a tank just to get the thing started and then once it ran out, I had to waste another half getting it up again, if it would start at all. What the problem ended up being was an improperly tuned engine. My low end was WAY too rich and my high end was too lean. I restarted from the recommended needle settings for my engine and worked my way from there.

If you have that temperature gauge, check right now whether or not there is a drop or a rise in engine temperature when you idle. Drive the car around and get the engine up to running temperature (around 230 degrees F is a good spot) and then bring it in, take the temp, and let it idle. After about 15-20 seconds, take the temp again. If it goes up, your bottom end is probably too lean, if it goes down, your bottom end is too rich. That was my problem. Once I got it tuned right, I never had any more problems with the car dying while refueling and now it starts almost immediately every time. Good luck.
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Old 12-08-2002, 10:27 PM   #1838
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have a read of this article http://rcnitro.com/rn/articles/super_tune.asp
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Old 12-08-2002, 11:05 PM   #1839
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Many thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 12-08-2002, 11:24 PM   #1840
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There will allways be those people that are into trends and other crap. Look at the ntc3, when it first came out it was the most popular sedan on the market everyone and ther mom had it. It is the same with the MTX3, everone has it, I decided not to get one just because of all the stuff that I have heard about it. There is a lot of modification needed to get the break system to work properly, and some people are only running with one of the pads just to stop the drag. And none of my tires will work with, I'll have to go get all new nitro shoes with the 3mm offfset.
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Old 12-09-2002, 05:22 AM   #1841
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Default Radio Controller

Aeon Racer,
I'm a newbie, just want to inquire more on your extertise. I bought my NTC3 RTR that includes an AM Jaguar radio. I feel I would like to change the radio to an FM one. I also experienced under steering during medium speed turns. I would like to ask the advantages of an FM radio and if you can recommend a brand. I'm leaning towards Futaba. Thanks for your time.
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Old 12-09-2002, 07:27 AM   #1842
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that understeer is alot more likely to be the steering servo than anything to do with the radio. I would suggest getting a high quality race servo. Take a look at setup sheets from Baker, Easton, Pavidis, Kinwald anyone and see what they are using for steering servos and choose one of those. If you use it properly it will last you a very long time. And just to explain a little. The standard servo that is in your car doesn't have enough torque to hold the wheels in the position you want during the turn so they are going back to straight. This would make it feel like you have a push(understeer). With the high power servo the wheels will stay where you put them.

Another thing could be that your servo saver on the steering rack is too loose. I had that problem with mine and had to replace the spring with an old B3 slipper clutch spring that I had. Either way that push probably has little or nothing to do with the radio.

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Old 12-09-2002, 08:33 AM   #1843
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I would agree that the push has nothing to do with your servo. More than likely its the servo saver on your steering rack that is lose. Do like Swen said and replace the spring there with either a RC10 GT clutch spring (easier IMO) or you'll have to take the screw out, cut just a little bit off the tip and then tighten it down as hard as you can go.

I would say the RTR servo's are decent enough if you're just bashing around infront of your house, but if you plan on racing competitively, I'd look into getting a faster and more torquey servo. It will make the car much easier to drive.

I would also recommend an FM radio just for the tunability it offers. It's always easier to change something on the radio than rip the car appart to fix a problem. It's especially useful when you notice something right before your race, such as too much steering. You can turn down the dual rate and the car will feel a little better. I wouldn't say you'd NEED an FM radio unless you've got a horrible glitch problem, but I definetely think its worth getting one. I would highly recommend either the Futaba 3PDF, Futaba 3PJ, or the Airtronics M8. All are very high quality radios that offer plenty of settings to change. I have not been able to drive a Futaba 3PK yet, so no input on that one, but I'm sure it's a good one. Really any radio you pick should get the job done.
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Old 12-09-2002, 08:39 AM   #1844
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I think he meant to agree that the push has nothing to do with the radio I also would agree that an FM radio is alot easier to use... much more user friendly should we say but what I was saying is you don't need one for just bashing... if your racing though... it might be worth looking into. And my radio of choice is the M8, then the R1. Never run Futaba so I don't have an opinion on them.

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Old 12-09-2002, 10:54 AM   #1845
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
Once you get it tuned right, you can run it for hours and hours and it shouldn't have any problems. A properly tuned engine should not vary a lot in running temperature vs idling temperature. If you don't have a temperature gauge, I would highly suggest getting one, it makes tuning MUCH easier.
Good points!!! Make SURE you know your engine's starting points and go back to them if you have any questions!!! They should be pretty danged close.

Also, 2-cycle motors are notoriously hard to start when they're hot, so be aware that re-starting it MAY be more difficult than when it's cool.

Mine starts immediately upon getting fuel when it's cool. It takes some time when it's hot.
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