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Old 10-04-2002, 12:03 AM   #1591
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NTC3NUT - good talkin man!

Now if I could only get my MT12 firing again in time for Sat racing. . .RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Old 10-04-2002, 09:40 AM   #1592
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Can someone please remind me of original settings for the MT12. . .I looked all through my records last night and can't seem to find that. . .I KNOW I have it written down, but I can't find that paper.
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Old 10-04-2002, 04:09 PM   #1593
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2.5-3 low 4 1/4-5 high; that's for all .12 NR slide carbs
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Old 10-04-2002, 04:18 PM   #1594
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Boomer, You think you got problems!? This is my car as of a few hours ago. I have a race tomorrow too! I'll work on it 'till 10pm, go to work from 11pm-7am, go home for a 2 hr nap, then go qualify all day long, only to repeat the whole process over again for the mains on Sunday. We must all be insane, I can't wait for carpet season to start!
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Old 10-04-2002, 05:22 PM   #1595
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holy crap ntc3nut, u got a lot of work to do
good luck
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Old 10-05-2002, 01:45 AM   #1596
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Shoot, man, that looks like an old pic from the Idiot's Guide to VW Bugs!

I had mine like that earlier in the week - went through the whole car. But it just revs up and dies. . .

Anyway, I'm skipping this weekend of racing. . .maybe I can catch up on maintenance of all the cars. . .
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Old 10-05-2002, 04:03 AM   #1597
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On a good-sized track, a TC (any TC) will be smoked by a properly set up 235mm 4wd Outlaw car.

Here in the USA, we're getting closer to the European rules. 8th 4 wd., 235mm 4 wd outlaw(that's any body, any .15 turbo), the more straightforward Euro 235mm class, which is 2 wd, 3 port .15 non turbo engines, and Touring Car bodies, and the 200mm TC class, which is TC (4door) bodies, no more than 3 ports on any turbo engine with standard plugs. (nonturbo plugs).

A track that'll run under some basic ROAR rules will supply better competition than you'll get from somewhere that says "Run what you brung". Its no fun chasing someone down when they're underpowered, or your underpowered. And I'm a firm believer that a Touring car, should have a sedan body. That's what makes them so even and fun.

And YES, nitrogater, a 235 mm car is, of course wider, longer, heavier, more powerful, bigger tire-d, and Faster than a 200mm car. The best I can do at our track, the Sugarbowl, is 16.110 sec lap in a 200mm TC, while the 235 4wd Outlaws turn in laps in the high 14 secs. I also tried the Yokomo Lola body on the TC, and is was only marginally faster than a well set up taxi-bodied TC.
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Old 10-05-2002, 04:05 AM   #1598
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I should note that the 235 4wd outlaw class is strictly a North American class. In Europe all 235 cars are 2wd, and run with Touring Car bodies.
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Old 10-05-2002, 05:34 PM   #1599
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Who says it's no fun chasing someone down?

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Old 10-05-2002, 07:29 PM   #1600
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NTC3NUT

smoke them, if you got them
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Old 10-06-2002, 07:15 AM   #1601
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I have to assume that all those outlaw .12's being sold are for the purpose of running down the regular ROAR spec. .12 mills. If level competion is the desired outcome, then the outlaw .12's need a class of their own.
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Old 10-07-2002, 03:54 AM   #1602
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Is it just me or is the NTC3 hard on rear tires. Is there a solution to stop them from overheating the rear tires apart from slowing down which i will not except as an option????
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Old 10-07-2002, 08:08 AM   #1603
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Hooked_on, what kind of setup are you using on the rear of your NTC3? I use 2 degrees chamber, and one degree toe in for the rear with rubber tires and they have held up great. If this setup doesn't help, then check the tightness of the rear diff., because if it is to tight, the tires can scrub going through the tight turns and that can cause premature wear and heat. Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2002, 10:05 AM   #1604
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Quote:
Originally posted by hooked_on
Is it just me or is the NTC3 hard on rear tires. Is there a solution to stop them from overheating the rear tires apart from slowing down which i will not except as an option????
Most Nitros are fairly hard on rears - it's because we pitch them around corners a lot. I have found all of the ones I have owned to be harder on rears than fronts.
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Old 10-07-2002, 02:57 PM   #1605
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Are you running the same shore front & rear? If not the softer rears will wear faster than the harder fronts. I also run -2 deg. camber in the rear, but this causes the tires to wear unevenly. The outsides will wear faster than the insides, and the tires will cone. If you run -3 deg. camber they will wear evenly, but I think you initially loose a little rear traction.??
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