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Old 09-27-2002, 03:54 AM   #1516
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Default Re: Re: Servo saver spring

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Originally posted by blimey
Try 6587...it is real stiff!
blimey

Did you just replace the spring? I got the spring and nut in today but the nut is to big for the servo saver.
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Old 09-27-2002, 09:22 AM   #1517
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Default Re: Re: Re: Servo saver spring

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Originally posted by Number 11
blimey

Did you just replace the spring? I got the spring and nut in today but the nut is to big for the servo saver.
Just the spring! It makes the steering far far more positive.
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Old 09-27-2002, 09:28 AM   #1518
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Default Re: One way

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Originally posted by Number 11
Can someone point me in the direction of where I can find more info on one-ways? I see you guys talking about them all the time and it sounds like they are beneficial. What I would like to know is what is the purpose of a one-way and is it only used for a car that is running foam tires? Does anyone have a picture of what a one-way looks like?
We talk about one-ways a lot on the electric forum in a thread called "Faster corner speed like a pro" (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...?threadid=4935 )

This is a pic of a Yok one-way - most look at least something like this. . .


The purpose of a one-way is to increase front traction going into, through and out of a corner. If you "swoop" a corner with a one-way, it is generally faster than if you take the corner with anything else. You can use them in any car (make sure it's made for the car, though. . . ), foam tires or rubber.

I generally don't run them because I find them intolerant of mistakes. They want a single line and if you deviate from it, you're hosed, Tommy! (This is basically saying that I am not a good enough driver to run it. . . heh)
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Last edited by Boomer; 09-27-2002 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 09-27-2002, 01:21 PM   #1519
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Default Re: Re: One way

Thanks for that link there is some good stuff in there. By using a one way does it change anything with rear traction or does it generally stay the same?
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Old 09-27-2002, 01:22 PM   #1520
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Servo saver spring

Cool I will try it out. Thanks
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Old 09-27-2002, 01:38 PM   #1521
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I took my Rear Turnbuckles into the guy today and we found that the Nuts that need to be used are 6-40 nuts. He quoted me about $6.30 per nut ... and I have to buy 100 so I don't think that will be happeneing unles I can find them on the internet.

I also took in the bottom half of my Diff case. He thinks that with 4-6 hours of setup time @ $70 a hour he can set up the CNC machine to pump out aluminum lower diff cases. The more I do the chaper it will be. How many would be interested in something like that. He said that he could turn out 1 every 8-10 min. So Diff halves could run about $50-60 a piece. Does that sound resonable? I would have to sit down and work it out but I don't want to bug this guy if it is not going to be worth the problems.
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Old 09-27-2002, 02:08 PM   #1522
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What about the upper diff case? Thats the one every one breaks.I looked at making one and it would take some time on a manual mill.Also you might have someone draw one up in a CAD program.Then they could just import it into the CNC machine...Just a thought?
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Old 09-27-2002, 02:11 PM   #1523
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I thought everyone have been having problems witht he lower case. I have had no problems with the upper case really but have had 4 bottom casses strip out on me. I will take that to him also. I think that I know one guy that maybe has a cad program.

Thanks
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Old 09-27-2002, 02:45 PM   #1524
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You can use stainless screws from microfastener.com.I use the button head screws to secure the top to the bottom.They seem to be a hair bigger and don't strip out the plastic.I ordered all of the screws for the car and it was around $30 dollars,but I could do four or five cars.
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Old 09-27-2002, 02:49 PM   #1525
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Rear traction stays the same, but since you are striving for a balance, effectively it lessens compared to the front. . .

Generally, a one-way setup will differ from a dual diff setup which will differ from a locked-front setup. . .

I would go to someplace like competitionx and find a setup that looks relevant (same type of track surface, one-way/diff, foams/rubber, etc) and work from there. . .
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Old 09-27-2002, 03:11 PM   #1526
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Default New Stuff @ the Worlds

Check out this photo and let me know what you think. I've sat on this one for a week and I couldn't stand it anymore.
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Old 09-27-2002, 03:14 PM   #1527
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Probably jsut trying new gears... ... It is probably for the people that have real horsepower in their cars
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Old 09-27-2002, 04:27 PM   #1528
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I was told these where prototypes used for the Nationals and the Worlds. They may be a production item in the future. They have also been through 2-3 design changes with the Yokomo one-way. The "2nd generation" design they where using at the Worlds had a full size ring gear flange, and allowed the ring gear to be shimmed. Besides the obvious fuel tank, dual chamber muffler, and toe-link mods, they are also looking at the front driveshaft cup. In fact I think that's what broke on Barry's car in the main. I know I'll be in line to try delrin (or whatever they are) trany gears and 2-speed spur gears.
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Old 09-27-2002, 04:55 PM   #1529
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I think they are simply fixing all the problems they don't officially have with the car.

It's a shame that only the factory guys had those parts for the worlds and John Doe was running a really good chance to strip his stock gears.

This is the first time that AE has released an unfinished car.
This was usually Losi's domain.
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Old 09-27-2002, 07:46 PM   #1530
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It's a work in progress, just like any other touring car out there. They are trying to improve upon it, as they should. I don't think any of the NTC3's at the Worlds went without these gears, factory or not. As far as being unfinished , I think most would take exception to that. They worked hard, using the materials on hand, and despite some growing pains, they produced an awesome car. Their record speaks for itself. Constantly TQ'ing, dominating top tens, and now winning the Worlds. My posts here are ment to inform and encourage, not bash. Save that for the kiddies.
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