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Old 07-05-2008, 02:50 PM   #1
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Default Noobie with BurNt mrx centax.Understanding setup

My clutch fried yesterday at 301.The damage was done to the pressure plate and the shoe.The pressure plate looked like it was smacking the the clutch bell because the outer edge of the plate had been torn up alittle.The clutch shoe was browned alittle and it had mushroomed up alittle.I think the reason for the damage is because I was using lithium grease from the automotive shop and maybe my endplay was too great.The lithium grease was flying off the thrust bearing with the blip of the throttle and I believe this was causing the clutch bell to get to hot.My setting yesterday at 301 was as follows.Spring tension was set to .900.The clutch gap at .50 and the endplay at .40.I have read the thread on the mike swauger setup and this is how I interpretted it and have been performing my setup.First I push against the clutch bell with the clutch fully assembled but without shims.The clutch bell drags on the yellow shoe #ho779 so I place one shim at a time on the spring tension nut #ho755 and check for draging till the clutch bell doesn't drag on the shoe.When there is no dragging I am assuming this is a gap of .10.Then I can add .40 worth of shims and have a clutch gap of .50.Then I assemble the clutch completely again and push the clutch bell against the shoe and measure from the edge of the 1st gear pinnion to the edge of the clutch bearing stopper #h0756 and take my measurement and then i pull the clutch bell away from the motor and take that measurement and subtract them from eacthother and that is my endplay.So my endplay is too great so I add shims on top of the thrustbearing which is also in front of the bearing stopper till I have a endplay of .40.The car felt like it didn't have any torque/slipping clutch on the intial stab of the throttle.This is how I figured it because it is impossible for the clutch to drag and you should only have to move shims from the spring tension nut to the thrust bearing to maintain the same gap and endplay.Is this the correct setup procedure of the mrx clutch?what is the allowable range for clutch gap endplay and spring tension?I have been setting the spring tension with a feeler gauge and measuring the gap and endplay with a caliper.I have seen the mention of a clutch gapping tool but have not found any.Thanks for the help.

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Old 07-05-2008, 04:25 PM   #2
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I think I see the problem. You need to set your end gap BEFORE putting any shims inside the clutch bell. This is to set the gap between the shoe and the bell. It should be no more then about .7 mm (I would stick with .5 -.6 to be safe) or bad things can happen. After setting this gap you then put shims behind the clutch bell to eliminate most of the play.
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:26 PM   #3
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Also, it sounds like the shoe was worn out. Replace it more often.
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:29 PM   #4
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This is a neat little tool that can measure end gap.

http://edsracingproducts.com/FLYWHEE...B000XAKIIG.htm
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:32 PM   #5
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Or if you want to get really high tech.

http://brooklynhobbies.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=2464
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:49 PM   #6
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The shoe wasn't worn out when I went there yesterday it was in very good condition.I think the clutch shoe was banging really hard into the bell which caused most of the damage.If I set the clutch up your way do I still shim the bell up first till the there is no drag then shim on the thrust bearing side then the motor side?
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:02 PM   #7
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Well I am told to shim the gap by adding shims on the thrust bearing side then shim the endplay from the motor side.That would explain why my pressure plate was banging into the bell and would mean I have a clutch gap of about over 1mmSo now I guess I will have to add shims instead of moving them around to account for wear.Now I am guessing here that I could still shim first on the motor side by adding .60 worth of shims then shim the thrust bearing side for endplay or does that not work either?
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:06 PM   #8
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Also say I shimmed for .60 clutch gap and have a endplay of .20 do I add the endplay to the clutch gap to come up with a final gap of .80?
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:22 PM   #9
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720 or nt1 setup books give you details on how to adjust properly.
gap adjust first with shims in the outside and without the inner bearing, endplay
later with the shimms in the inside and with the inner bearing in place, remember the shim that is in contact with the bearing should hava an outer diameter smaller than the bearing, in case of the mrx4 that uses 5x10 bearings that shim should be 5x8mm, i've made spacers from broke bearings 5x8mm bearings and they work fine
just a tip, if you have a gap of .6 and endplay of .1, and as your shoe
wears out .1mm, you just need to readjust the gap by putting a shim from the
inside (where you adjust endplay) and put it in the outside or thrustbearing (where you adjust gap) and all settings will remain the seame, now there will be a time when your shoe is worn, and the clutch bell is about to touch the clutch plate, i've used lexan between the plate and the shoe to raise its height, it will give you some extra life to the shoe. for practice and bashing ok

hope it helps
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:28 PM   #10
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NO SHIMS. Assemble the clutch complete. Make sure the thrust bearing washer with the larger diameter is toward the engine/outer 5X10mm clutch bell bearing. Hold the engine and push out on the bell, trying to keep the bell level on the thrust bearing. Use the thing that sticks out of the end of the calipers when you open them. If your holding them with your right hand it will stick out of the right side. Slide the caliper down until the end hits the face of the acorn washer. Repeat until you get an average number. Push the ZERO button on the caliper at this measurement. Now pull down on the clutch bell and take the same measurement. Subtract .4 from this=the amount of shims to add between the thrust bearing race with the small inside diameter and the acorn washer(thing). Now add shims between the rear clutch bell bearing and the face of the flywheel nut so that the clutch bell can not drag on the clutch shoe and there is still a little of play in the bell when you move it parallel to the crank shaft.
Your air gap is now set at .4mm and you have enuff end play not to put the works in a bind. Now go eat some snake...
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:42 PM   #11
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"Now go eat some snake..."

Snakes are no threat. Go eat some K cars and european exotics.
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:46 PM   #12
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Mongooses LOVE snake meat, when you can find one. Mini-Z are for cool geeks and as for the EURO TRASH it,s all in the garbage cans at the Fort ...
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:51 PM   #13
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Hahahaha, I swear Mugen builds their cars specifically for Ft. Meyers. Notice those green boards in my Avatar?
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Old 07-05-2008, 06:04 PM   #14
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Blessed is the FORT, if you can get some here your GUARANTEED to get some EVERYWHERE. www.101racing.com, this is where your Mongoose was spawned. Just start clicking on stuff you'll figure it out. welcome to the world of .co.jp enjoy
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:38 PM   #15
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Thanks for the help everyone.
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