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Old 05-19-2004, 09:38 AM   #1366
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Quote:
Originally posted by sup
i am not sure if rdlogics or ths has a manifold for side exhaust engines though.. goodluck anyway!
I know they don't. But they have some older 2 piece pipes that I'm looking into and just use the stock manifold. I had the Dynamite manifold, which was set up like a one piece pipe, but it's too long and gets in the way of the LSN
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Old 05-20-2004, 05:18 PM   #1367
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If cutting the shaft is all then fire up the dremmel and awawe go. The stats on this engine says kick ass and thats what i'm going to do..... The whole point is I don't want to spend extra to go for a rear exh. engine to dent the budget. If I can get decent power from a side exh. then driving skills is what its all about....
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Old 05-22-2004, 05:43 PM   #1368
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Talking help needed

I am having problem finishing the build of my ld3 pro. I have sirio .12 with threaded shaft and for some reason the threaded shaft clutch nut that came with kit does not screw in far enough to secure the flywheel. Originally I thought the shaft was too long so I cut it down very short and still same problem. I am using the collet that came with sirio motor and still no luck. Anybody have any ideas? Do I need a different clutch nut? I thought this would work, it seems like I need to go buy sg motor which makes me and my wallet unhappy seeing I have brand new sirio sitting in front of me
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Old 05-22-2004, 09:20 PM   #1369
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have you cut enough? my old red head that came w/ the rtr is roughly 15mm long. I have 3 spacers on the shaft befor the collet and the remaining thread is 7mm from tapered end of collet to end of threaded shaft...

hope this helps. don't recall if all the spacers were there before i changed motors(currently run a sts 12rs) but length of entire threaded shaft should be around the 15mm length.

hope this helps
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Old 05-22-2004, 09:56 PM   #1370
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Havy,

Check page 34 of this thread to see the motor I am dealing with. I just measured it and it is right about 15 mm including the part of the shaft that is not threaded. I have tried removing the threaded portion of this crankshaft to see if it could be converted to sg but not much luck. I guess I need to find out if the threaded portion is removable. Not sure what else to do. I guess I could try some spacers. I am new to this so what confused me a bit is I have seen two different types of threaded shaft. One type that has just threaded shaft and the type I have here that has threaded portion and non threaded portion do you see what I mean?
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Old 05-23-2004, 02:51 AM   #1371
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Default set up help

Went racing today. Great fun, but my car is suffering from understeer. It pushes in the corners. The car is fast enough in the straights but suffers in the corners. I can't keep power on in the corners.

I'm running 40's on the front and back. Every thing I can think of is soft in the front to get grip but still it pushes. Help. I'm slipping in the championship now.

Still I love racing!!
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:06 AM   #1372
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100k rear diff got my ass to come around nice on power

Also some anti-squat would reduce the weight x-fer to the rear...
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:10 AM   #1373
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Nightmare you have a PM
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Old 05-23-2004, 08:22 AM   #1374
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Quote:
Originally posted by IDrinkNitro
Havy,

Check page 34 of this thread to see the motor I am dealing with. I just measured it and it is right about 15 mm including the part of the shaft that is not threaded. I have tried removing the threaded portion of this crankshaft to see if it could be converted to sg but not much luck. I guess I need to find out if the threaded portion is removable. Not sure what else to do. I guess I could try some spacers. I am new to this so what confused me a bit is I have seen two different types of threaded shaft. One type that has just threaded shaft and the type I have here that has threaded portion and non threaded portion do you see what I mean?
I saw the pics, didn't see the non threaded portion, I imagine that it's covered up by the collet. The numbers I gave you of the measurement are from the ofna red head that came w/ my rtr so I'm sure they are correct for your application. Is there any possibility that the threads are stripped? I this point I really don't know what else has gone wrong for you, I had to cut the STS 12rs because the tread was too long and didn't have problems. Recheck the shafts, then if not stripped, check and see if adding some spacers behind the collet helps.

havy
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Old 05-23-2004, 08:45 AM   #1375
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On your setup, definately use some stiff springs up front. If you can get a hold of the HN spring kit (the 6 pack) try that. I still have to get those myself. I got the 3 pack and the hard springs still aren't quite hard enough. Since I only have 100K and 30K (haven't found the 300K yet), I put stratght 100K up front and a mix of 100 and 30K in the rear, skewed to the 100K. Seemed to work pretty well. I noticed the spider gears had a tendency to seperate from each other in the diff. If it happend again, I'll pull everything down again.

Don't know what to say on that engine. I had a problem like that with the OS. But it came with that drive dog washer/spacer. I udes that and a collet from the engine and that seemed to work. The collett was a bit small so it didn't fit perfectly on the shaft, but once I got the clutch nut on there, it wasn't a problem.

Oh, and I found out the hard way, if you have the SG flywheel, you better get the lowered mounts. This shouldn't be a problem on the Pro versions, which come set up for a non PS engine, but since mine was a RTR, I had the standard size. I got my mod SX12 in the other day, wrestled with the new clutch springs (gray Ofna numbers, since they didn't have the heavy Mugen springs, man are they hard to get on!) and got the engine in. Tried putting it on the box, and there was a nice gat between the starter wheel and the flywheel. Oh well, at some point, I'll get the mounts and the Viper head for that motor and drop the CG a bit.

Breaking that thing in is a pain. I don't even have 1/2 tank thru after 2 hours of trying to get it started and stay running. I have a long day ahead of me...
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Old 05-23-2004, 09:19 AM   #1376
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on the push problem, do everything mentioned, then put some 37shore up front, you will be happy to see the car hold it's line better on throttle

I finnally did it and believe me, everybody thought I had been practicung everyday prior to the race, he ge, wasn't so

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Old 05-23-2004, 08:48 PM   #1377
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Quote:
Originally posted by havy
I saw the pics, didn't see the non threaded portion, I imagine that it's covered up by the collet. The numbers I gave you of the measurement are from the ofna red head that came w/ my rtr so I'm sure they are correct for your application. Is there any possibility that the threads are stripped? I this point I really don't know what else has gone wrong for you, I had to cut the STS 12rs because the tread was too long and didn't have problems. Recheck the shafts, then if not stripped, check and see if adding some spacers behind the collet helps.

havy
3 spacers behind the collet and everything is fine now. Havy thank you very much, I can now finish the build and will be breaking in motor this week thanks to you and this great forum
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Old 05-23-2004, 08:51 PM   #1378
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Great news, glad I could help

This is definitely the best forum I've ever seen about RC and especially good info on the LD3

I'm just trying to give back whenever I can

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Old 05-24-2004, 05:03 AM   #1379
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Thanks for the input guys. I've got a couple of weeks until our next meet. I'll make a few adjustments and see how I go.

I love these LD3's
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:00 AM   #1380
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Default Re: set up help

Quote:
Originally posted by Browny
Went racing today. Great fun, but my car is suffering from understeer. It pushes in the corners. The car is fast enough in the straights but suffers in the corners. I can't keep power on in the corners.

I'm running 40's on the front and back. Every thing I can think of is soft in the front to get grip but still it pushes. Help. I'm slipping in the championship now.

Still I love racing!!
Someone PM me with a similar question on holding the line around the bend.......my answer covers most aspects for the LD3....

"Are you running the car with front one way and rear gear diff?
Assuming you are.

I found that the steering was much better when I used the wider alloy steering rack, using the outermost holes (widest setting on the rack). Also, on the front hubs, I used the middle holes, this made a big difference also. You can file a notch on the 2 alloy steering arms to give you a little bit more steering also.

If your problem is that the car understeers (pushes) "on power" coming out of a corner then at least 100,000 wt silicon oil in the rear diff will also help. In fact you can use the Mugen Super Grease in the rear diff, this will be even better than 100,000wt.

I found that the car has to run fairly high ride height to run consistent, this is probably because the chassis is quite wide. On my V1RR Evo I would run around 3mm with foam tires, but this is no good for the LD3. I found 4mm in the front and 5-6mm in the back was best. You then control the corners using the throttle finger because it is possible to power the car into oversteer.

For springs, I have not use the LD3 springs, I stuck with Kyosho V1RR springs. Front was black front springs and rear was gold rear springs.

I use about 4 deg rear chamber and 2 deg rear toe in. On the front, the camber is usually 1-2 degs, with 0 toe in.

Shock oils, I had to put 60wt in the front and 40wt in the back. 60/60 made the car too twichy in the chicanes.

With these settings the car had plenty of steering off power. On power reaction depended on the engine I used. With OS TR(p) the car would continue to turn in even harder on-power. With NR NS3 engine there was a slight push because the NR engine simply gave out too much torque when it kicked in.

One last thing, don't use the rear floating mount, it locked down the rear end too much. The car feels much more flowing using the std mounts in the back with a touring shell.

Give it a try......Good luck."

However...he never did get back to me as to whether it worked??!! so much for the power of internet!!!
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