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Old 03-12-2004, 02:24 PM   #916
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Quote:
Originally posted by spenzalii
there is about a 1-2mm space in between the chasis and the bottom of the servo. I didn't want to rusk it and crack anything
Yeah I'm not sure about yours because I'm still learning about all these different versions. If there's only a small space inbetween, you can probably just add washers to take up the space.
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Old 03-12-2004, 06:13 PM   #917
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just after some info on the differences between the ld3 pro and champion edition any help greatly appreciated
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stuff for sale associated 12r5 $175, team magic 1/10 pit bag $40, top racing pit bag $30, KO helios with spektrum module and 3 receivers $200, CEN CT5 $100 all are plus post
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Old 03-12-2004, 06:27 PM   #918
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Quote:
Originally posted by dangles
just after some info on the differences between the ld3 pro and champion edition any help greatly appreciated
the champ version is a full option version but without alloy a-arm brace. graphite here and there and the alloy is in orange color. dtm calls it tangerine.
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Old 03-12-2004, 06:32 PM   #919
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There is a full list of the differences earlier on in this (or another?) thread...
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Old 03-12-2004, 08:28 PM   #920
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BTW...Shock Bladders:Mugen ones work well too. My shop doesn't stock Kyosho, so he gave me some for a Mugen. No problems with the fit, no leaking at all
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:17 PM   #921
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Got a part # plz?
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:33 PM   #922
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Mugen Seiki D0508

Fits MSX/MTX/MRX
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Old 03-12-2004, 10:51 PM   #923
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Thanks..
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Old 03-13-2004, 03:56 AM   #924
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Quote:
Originally posted by spenzalii
BTW...Shock Bladders:Mugen ones work well too. My shop doesn't stock Kyosho, so he gave me some for a Mugen. No problems with the fit, no leaking at all
You can also use AE NTC-3 parts they fit perfectly.
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Old 03-13-2004, 09:55 AM   #925
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Finished the shock rebuild. I think I figured out why the car was tweaked so bad last season. I took one of the shocks apart to flush the oil. While cycling the shock shaft up and down, I took a look at the piston, which looked like it was moving. So I pushed it up, and the piston slid to the bottom of the shaft! One of the e-clips fell off the bottom, so the shock worked when it wanted to. how nice...

Now to check the wheel bearings
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:34 PM   #926
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practically read the whole thread again to search tips.. question is regarding diff oil up front. for the rear, its really 100,000wt, but for the front, there is little info? any ideas what oil thickness should i use up front? thanks in advance!
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:44 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally posted by sup
practically read the whole thread again to search tips.. question is regarding diff oil up front. for the rear, its really 100,000wt, but for the front, there is little info? any ideas what oil thickness should i use up front? thanks in advance!
100,000 for the rear in conjunction with a front one way. Usually using two diffs, softer all around, with the front a bit heavier than the rear.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:53 PM   #928
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevink2
100,000 for the rear in conjunction with a front one way. Usually using two diffs, softer all around, with the front a bit heavier than the rear.
with 100K diff oil, it just feels like 10K when compare with kyosho or mugen. go with something really nasty and sticky for the front, or solid/oneway?
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:59 PM   #929
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so, if its diff all the way, the front should be thicker? would a 30K rear and 50K front do the trick? or should i go way thicker (like 100K rear 120K front?) just a note, with the previous set up (stock grease), LD3 "like a pig" (quoting DTM's post way back) and really sloppy at hairpins. would be redcing droop hoping to have more steering response without oversteering next time i hit the tracks.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:01 PM   #930
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Quote:
Originally posted by sup
so, if its diff all the way, the front should be thicker? would a 30K rear and 50K front do the trick? or should i go way thicker (like 100K rear 120K front?) just a note, with the previous set up (stock grease), LD3 "like a pig" (quoting DTM's post way back) and really sloppy at hairpins. would be redcing droop hoping to have more steering response without oversteering next time i hit the tracks.
mentioned earlier, you need at least 100K for rear diff and you need something much thicker if you use front diff.
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