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Old 02-23-2004, 04:55 AM   #796
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hello From France,

I got a T2M Venom R. It's a LD3 champ edition with all the options (lower alu mounts, alu servo mouts, two differantiels......)

It weighs 1720g ready to race (foam tyres, 2 diffs, light battery pack....) No extra titanium or special modifications..

My car run now 18 liters of fuel, and I didn't break parts or only on a big crash..

Visit my personnal page (3 pages)
my pages
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Old 02-23-2004, 06:33 AM   #797
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I would like to ask you experts a question; what do you suggest do to the Champ Edition when building it from the box? Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Jason
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:44 AM   #798
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Quote:
Originally posted by melonracer
I would like to ask you experts a question; what do you suggest do to the Champ Edition when building it from the box? Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Jason
1. Buy a 3.05mm reamer....ream out the holes on the lower A arm mounts until the A arms fall freely AFTER you do up the grub screws on the A arms. Otherwise they will bind and you will get a funny handling car.

2. If you intend running a Kyosho or Mugen Centax and the stock lowered engine mount. You need to dremel a bit off the chassis, where the gear housing sits in order to get clearance.

3. Use thread lock on all screws going into Alloy.

4. Junk the steering servo mount and get the alloy one. The stock plastic is not worth the effort.

5. While you are at it...but the alloy lower A arms mounts also.

6. Be very careful with the grub screw holding the anti roll bar blade in place....the alloy holder is very soft!

7. Do not follow the instruction on the gearbox bevel gear shimming.....just put enough shims to have a slight play in the bevel gears....whatever it takes.

8. Junk the original yellow springs...too soft.

9. Use a very long fuel tube for the exhaust to fuel tank....the pipe gives masses of pressure.

10. Do not use O ring in center shaft drive cups...let the centre shaft slop around....otherwise it will bend.

11. Tighten up fuel tank mounting screws and then back off 1/4 turn....let it be loose.

12. Dismantle CVD joints and re-assemble using very small amount of grease and thread lock on grub screw.

Besides that...just follow the instructions!!!
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:48 AM   #799
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One last thing...spend some time spraying up the HN shell. The lexan used is actually better quality than the Proform stuff. Worth spending some time on........
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:08 PM   #800
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DTM, Thanks for the tips, I'll be using some

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm

6. Be very careful with the grub screw holding the anti roll bar blade in place....the alloy holder is very soft!
If you do strip you should be able to drill (3.5mm) and tap a 4mm thread

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm

10. Do not use O ring in center shaft drive cups...let the centre shaft slop around....otherwise it will bend.
I ended up using fuel tube shoved almost all the way in the cup, just to stop it coming out but still allowing enough movement so CVD does not bend. Yes I bent two then did something about it.
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:44 PM   #801
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1. Buy a 3.05mm reamer....ream out the holes on the lower A arm mounts until the A arms fall freely AFTER you do up the grub screws on the A arms. Otherwise they will bind and you will get a funny handling car.

DTM...the above quote...I just wanna be 100% sure...3.05mm or 3.5mm?
Im guessing 3.05mm 'cause the holes/pins are 3mm...thanks
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Old 02-23-2004, 07:51 PM   #802
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any1 got pics of this reamer? have no idea what this 3.05/3.5mm reamer look like.
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:36 PM   #803
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3.5mm would be a little too sloppy

I did it the cheapo way. 3mm drill bit in and out untill pin rotated easy.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:51 PM   #804
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroOB4You
1. Buy a 3.05mm reamer....ream out the holes on the lower A arm mounts until the A arms fall freely AFTER you do up the grub screws on the A arms. Otherwise they will bind and you will get a funny handling car.

DTM...the above quote...I just wanna be 100% sure...3.05mm or 3.5mm?
Im guessing 3.05mm 'cause the holes/pins are 3mm...thanks
3.05mm this will clean up the hole...make it slightly bigger so the pin is free.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:53 PM   #805
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Quote:
Originally posted by sup
any1 got pics of this reamer? have no idea what this 3.05/3.5mm reamer look like.
Kose makes one.....they also make 3.01mm, 3.02mm...but these are only good for carbon loaded plastic. For Normal plastic 3.05mm is better.....

I'll see what I can do when I get home tonight about a pic.....
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:54 PM   #806
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Quote:
Originally posted by au_Nightmare
3.5mm would be a little too sloppy

I did it the cheapo way. 3mm drill bit in and out untill pin rotated easy.
That would work also!!
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:49 AM   #807
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DTM,

Thanks for the info. Very helpful.

One last question though, what would you experts rather race, a LD3 Pro Champ Edition, Team Magic G4 "Pro" or the new and coming Ofna GTP4?? or the new FT NTC3?

I am racing a Kyosho VoneRR Evo right now and I am ready for a change. I have no experience with the models above. Again and suggestions would be great!

Thanks,

Jason
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:54 AM   #808
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I have an RR Evo also. It is a very different car to drive. I can put more power down quicker with the RR but I enjoy running the LD3 more.

Cannot comment on the other cars....I don't have them. However, I am sure any one of them can be fast because it is all in the setup anyway.
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:05 AM   #809
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Does anyone have any info on the GTP4 mentioned earlier? Im looking at buying a LD3 pro but dont want to if it is being decommisioned.

Thanks

Gary
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:18 AM   #810
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decommisioned ????
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