SteveG

The CD3 monoblock fits in the LD3 as well ?

au_Nightmare

The Answer

SteveG

Think I'll drop that idea...I like the ability of moving the motor fore and aft should I want to use a different clutch\clutch bell setup.

nsxshogun

Try the dragon motor mounts on ebay.

LethbridgeRC

Did you guys ever upgrade the pivot balls at all? Like the ntc3 titanium ones? I've been breaking them off and when i do that i not only lose two pivotballs but i lose an a-arm as well.

Thanks.

kevink2

I tried them but you have to shave off the ends to get them to the right length. Even though the ball is similar in size I started developing premature slop in the balls after a short while.

kevink2

au_Nightmare

I am still using the standard ones. Did some hunting after reading your message but it seems everything else uses 9mm

kevink2

Yeah if you ever find another tit. ball that works well, please share the info!

LethbridgeRC

Checked tower, the NTC3 ball ends are 8mm, but they cost more, Good if its an emergency since everyone seems to carry ntc3 parts.

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

So I ordered up some more stuff for the new season and started getting to rebuilding the car last night. The plan was to replace the chasis (which, it turns out, was bent), the lower arms and front and rear knuckles. Pulling the front diff apart proved troublesome. It looks as if one of the shims wasn't in the groove and spun on the case itself, effectively sealing it shut. After replacing the case refilling the diff with 300k oil (more like sticky paste) it went back in. Tried and failed to get all the play out of the aluminum rack, so I took the best compromise between slop and ultra smoothness, hoping with a few runs it may break in (at least until I can find the redesigned one I remember hearing about). I replaced the arms, polished the pivot balls up front and put it all back on the new chasis. Then I checked the suspension (slightly tight, since it will wear in quickly) and noticed the right arm had more up travel than the left. Scratching my head, I took a look and it apppears that the dogbone has worn the outdrive down a bit on the right. Had I seen this before, I could have replaced them before I filled the diff with the paste in the first place. And I haven't even got to the troublesome rear end yet. What fun....

Which reminds me. What good is a locked diff? The rear had given me problems the last part of the season so I managed to buy a new one for under $20, case and all. I will replace the old one and was thinking about locking it up with JB Weld and using it later, but I'm not sure on the benefits just yet. Plus I have to search back thru this thread and find some of the setups you guys had and see how they work.

kevink2

Remember they are not a direct fit... it was a pain dremeling off the ends to shorten them, and then they didn't really fit perfectly. You're better off with the stock units (and polish).

kevink2

Locked rear diff with front one-way will yield on power steering and rear wheel punch. Hard to drive unless track is really hooked up.

Locked rear with diff in front, not used very often.

Locked front with rear diff, slows steering down, but launches out of corners hard. Not as much steering in.

The idea of a locked diff in a shaft car still scares me, but I recall I heard Barry Baker has run it (solid front) in his NTC3 before in some big races.

SteveG

Have some spare crown and pinion gears ready

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

I actually do have a spare, now that you mention it. But I may not lock it after all. I may just take it down, try to sort it out and fill it with 100k oil for the front, in case the 300l is too thick.

BTW, if i mix my 100k with the 30k, will that net 130k or 70k? I'm not sure if I add or subtract when doing this stuff.

Oh year, I picked up the engine from the post office this morning. I'm taking it apart and checking it out today. It better fly. Hopefully I can finish the main rebuild and add the other stuff I ordered (new hinge pins, aluminum mounts, 2nd gear holder) this weekend.