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Old 08-20-2003, 08:11 PM   #166
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Here is a suggestion why dont you send the guard back to mugen and get a replacement? You obviously have other cars to drive while this one is out.

Or would you rather just keep coming back here and mouthing off?

Some building advice. When screwing into a locknut for the first time it will be tight, thats the design. Dont rely on the plastic to hold the nut. Do it in your hand a few times then gently cinch it up. The same thing happened to my Kyosho front bumper one time, I suppose that make is a crap car to huh? Wanna buy it off me?
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:12 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Rog, as far as the stripped AE screws.

Have you ever owned one, built one? Go do your homework ... you'll find some info on their cheap mis-matched sized screws with the offcenter allen heads on them.

Theres more than a few people who share the same opinion.

This is fun .. I can call you guys morons all night.

Morons stick with morons .... I guess either there are a whole bunch of smart people here, and I'm the idiot .. or you're all morons and I'm the smart one.

I know where its going after this, so I don't even need to try
Some more building advice. Associated plastics are very hard. Pretap all of your holes before screwing into them. I did this on my B4. Use a little grease on the screw to make it easier to screw into the plastic.
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:18 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Some more building advice. Associated plastics are very hard. Pretap all of your holes before screwing into them. I did this on my B4. Use a little grease on the screw to make it easier to screw into the plastic.
Not WD40 or KY??

Oops.. that's for engine tuning..
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:19 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Here is a suggestion why dont you send the guard back to mugen and get a replacement? You obviously have other cars to drive while this one is out.

Or would you rather just keep coming back here and mouthing off?

Some building advice. When screwing into a locknut for the first time it will be tight, thats the design. Dont rely on the plastic to hold the nut. Do it in your hand a few times then gently cinch it up. The same thing happened to my Kyosho front bumper one time, I suppose that make is a crap car to huh? Wanna buy it off me?
he is making this whole damn fussy is because he thinks mugen should bear the shipping cost for replacement parts just like ASS o !
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:20 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
well, you are getting there !! but I would say some ass o driver have similar mentality !
They think alike,it's a disease!!!
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:21 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
They think alike,it's a disease!!!
we dont use the word disease nowaday. we call it "VIRUS"

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Old 08-20-2003, 08:22 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
he is making this whole damn fussy is because he thinks mugen should bear the shipping cost for replacement parts just like ASS o !
I find it annoying because over here in Oz our suppliers as so damn poor it will take you 6 weeks to get a kit with a defect rectified!!

I honestly find it astonishing that a kit worth a measly $270 (touring car) can offer such astounding performance, and that the manufacturing defect percentage is so low considering the price of the kit!

I tell you if you want to go play with a 1:1 car $270 is not going to get you far
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:23 PM   #173
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Doesn't say that in the instructions to pre-tap .. which actually isn't the best way to go about building your kit -as far as the longevity of the plastics are involed that is-

I -on the NTC3- honestly used white AE silicone grease on the screws before installing the screws into the braces which mount to the diff cases. I bought brand-new Hudy tools for the job as well, as I'd heard about the AE screws stripping with cheap drivers (the kit L wrenches included). Even still, when I put the tool into the screw, the tolerance was burtal ... the wrench in the allen head of the screws had alot of fore and aft movement. Obviously not acceptable for a -new- screw.

Anyways, about the lock-nut in the flimsy plastic. I thought it might indeed hold, but I could see the problem comming. I actually pre-threaded all of the lock-nuts before hand as well, but I know I didn't go all the way through the nut. Just enough to make the screw tip level with the lock nut.

Whats funny is, that ALL of the other 4 went in without a problem. Yet you guys still think I did something wrong, and it was user error. Not only does it not suggest doing what I did, and what you suggested in the manual it seems like the lock nuts might actually stay put as they fit nice and snug when you pop the nuts in the holder before placing the guard in the right place to screw it in.

Perhaps the cheesy manual, flimsy plastic, and stupid oversight were all to blame ... even RC CarAction would have to agree about the extrmely vague manual.
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:24 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I find it annoying because over here in Oz our suppliers as so damn poor it will take you 6 weeks to get a kit with a defect rectified!!

I honestly find it astonishing that a kit worth a measly $270 (touring car) can offer such astounding performance, and that the manufacturing defect percentage is so low considering the price of the kit!

I tell you if you want to go play with a 1:1 car $270 is not going to get you far
$270 wouldn't even get me a K&N filter pod setup!!!
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:27 PM   #175
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erm chorner..

If you dun like the MBX5.. I be glad to take it off your hands for free and i will pay for shipping. Will that solves your problems and stops your complains?? for i have no complains with rubbish.
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:29 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard
erm chorner..

If you dun like the MBX5.. I be glad to take it off your hands for free and i will pay for shipping. Will that solves your problems and stops your complains?? for i have no complains with rubbish.
Why pay shipping,shouldn't mugen???
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:31 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Doesn't say that in the instructions to pre-tap .. which actually isn't the best way to go about building your kit -as far as the longevity of the plastics are involed that is-

I -on the NTC3- honestly used white AE silicone grease on the screws before installing the screws into the braces which mount to the diff cases. I bought brand-new Hudy tools for the job as well, as I'd heard about the AE screws stripping with cheap drivers (the kit L wrenches included). Even still, when I put the tool into the screw, the tolerance was burtal ... the wrench in the allen head of the screws had alot of fore and aft movement. Obviously not acceptable for a -new- screw.

Anyways, about the lock-nut in the flimsy plastic. I thought it might indeed hold, but I could see the problem comming. I actually pre-threaded all of the lock-nuts before hand as well, but I know I didn't go all the way through the nut. Just enough to make the screw tip level with the lock nut.

Whats funny is, that ALL of the other 4 went in without a problem. Yet you guys still think I did something wrong, and it was user error. Not only does it not suggest doing what I did, and what you suggested in the manual it seems like the lock nuts might actually stay put as they fit nice and snug when you pop the nuts in the holder before placing the guard in the right place to screw it in.

Perhaps the cheesy manual, flimsy plastic, and stupid oversight were all to blame ... even RC CarAction would have to agree about the extrmely vague manual.
I built my V1RR as per the manual and the rear diff leaked becasue the standard screws are too thin to bind the diff together properly. Should I rant?
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:32 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
Why pay shipping,shouldn't mugen???
Hey.. I trying to help chorner of out his problem..

You keep out of it..
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:34 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I built my V1RR as per the manual and the rear diff leaked becasue the standard screws are too thin to bind the diff together properly. Should I rant?
Erm are you not happy with your EVO too?
I'll be glad to take it off your hands too for free.. i'll pay for shipping too..
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Old 08-20-2003, 08:36 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard
Erm are you not happy with your EVO too?
I'll be glad to take it off your hands too for free.. i'll pay for shipping too..
LOL.

All I did was remove the offending screws, refill the diff and put 4 new larger screws into the diff.

I think that Kyosho distributor owes me 4 screws!!

Read my review of the EVO in the V1R thread!!
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