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Old 05-22-2004, 02:58 AM   #1471
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This is a pic of a Mugen Clutch Bell with Mugen 28t 2nd gear and 22t mugan 1st gear messing with Kyosho 45t and 50t Spurs

As you can see its not 100% but as the clutch engages the gears get pushed forward to engage 2nd better

Cheers
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Old 05-23-2004, 12:50 AM   #1472
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345


This is a pic of a Mugen Clutch Bell with Mugen 28t 2nd gear and 22t mugan 1st gear messing with Kyosho 45t and 50t Spurs

As you can see its not 100% but as the clutch engages the gears get pushed forward to engage 2nd better

Cheers
did it make a big improvement?
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Old 05-23-2004, 01:20 AM   #1473
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Anybody know what the bevel gearing is on the NTC3? The 05 is 39-13 or 40-13
Don't know the bevel gears but the internal ratio of the NTC3 is 2.5.
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Old 05-23-2004, 01:26 AM   #1474
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Quote:
Originally posted by madness
I raced the exact same gearing combination as in my 05R on my NTC3 at the 2003 Winternationals in Ft. Myers, FL and let me tell you, the NTC3 was ripping!!!
How is that possible? For 2nd gear, the lowest FDR on the FW05R (5.0 using 39T ring gears and 5.13 using 40T ring gears) is about the same as the highest 2nd gear FDR for NTC3 (5.2) ! Highest 1st gear FDR for the NTC3 is 6.75 while for the FW05R is 7.65 using the 39T ring gears and 7.85 using 40T ring gears.

Quote:
Originally posted by madness
I do not know if you have ever been to Ft. Myers but the straight is very loong!
Ft Myers straight very long? I guess you're used to running on really tight tracks then.
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:17 AM   #1475
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Has anyone had an problems with the rear out drives / dogbones and any binding? I am going to try some different out drives, but it looks as though i will have to shim them to take the movement out. Another solution i guess would be to purchase some universals for the rear... Trying to find another solution without having to do that
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:32 AM   #1476
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hi there....i found that you have to take your time to shim the diffs out...i have given as little backlash as i feel is nescesary.
i do not use the front "o" ring as it binds on one side........i have c.v's all around and it still binds just a little on max compression....thats on full height tyres though.......and i havnt noticed any irregularaties when i derive....back to back with v-one rr evolution and i think that the fw leaves it for dead....ive raced kyoshos since the first "r"
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Old 05-23-2004, 11:35 AM   #1477
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
did it make a big improvement?
Hi

Just back from the track and the gearing was very good but the 22 first gear was too tall for the our track. The top gear was just about right as I was topping out just before off throttle for the bend.

Not a good race today though as has mech problems all day. I had rubber tyre setup but think ill give that a miss unless its damp

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Old 05-23-2004, 06:46 PM   #1478
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Hi,

Do you folks use the Kyosho shock springs? I haven't owned any Kyosho cars before this FW05R and all the shock springs I have accumulated over the years do not fit the Kyosho's shocks.

I looked online to see if I could buy a set of the springs, but I am not sure which ones I need for this car. Any help is appreciated.

The car I purchased (used) came with light blue springs front and rear.

Since we are on the topic of shocks, what shock oil weight and springs (front and rear) are folks using with foam tires, front one-way on a medium to high traction track? I was thinking 60 wt oil all around to start?

Thanks,
-Rich
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Old 05-24-2004, 01:26 AM   #1479
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I use gold springs back with 35 wt oil at the back with black springs at the front with 35 wt.

The track i use is very bumpy so need the shocks to react quick. If your track is smooth use heavier oil. 60 wt would be the max i would go to

Cheers
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:33 AM   #1480
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just finished my FW-05R ,and i m pleased to say that i'm very pleased with it , cant wait for the weekend to try it out!
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:17 AM   #1481
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Cool - thanks, Ziggy. Now I just need to find somewhere that sells the springs. I assume you are using the pistons that come with the kit?

The track I will primarily be racing at is pretty smooth and is surface treated.

-Rich


Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
I use gold springs back with 35 wt oil at the back with black springs at the front with 35 wt.

The track i use is very bumpy so need the shocks to react quick. If your track is smooth use heavier oil. 60 wt would be the max i would go to

Cheers
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Old 05-24-2004, 03:11 PM   #1482
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Okay, I think I found part numbers for the shock springs:

Front Springs:
KYOC3753 Spring Set (2.5 Gold)
KYOC3754 Spring Set (3.0 Black)
KYOC3755 Spring Set (3.5 Silver)


Now, the questions I have is, I have blue springs all around on my car currently. Where does the stiffness of those blue springs fall in relation to the gold, black, and silver springs?

-Rich
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:41 PM   #1483
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damn initial d can get very technical
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Old 05-25-2004, 01:48 AM   #1484
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Anyone can tell me the stock gear tooths please?
1st spur :
2nd spur :
1st pinion :
2nd pinion :
how many kinds of optional gears?

I want to calculate the gearing ratio...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-25-2004, 02:00 AM   #1485
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Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
I want to calculate the gearing ratio...
Dino, please download the PDF file created by esham.

You could also take into account using Mugen 28T or 29T 2nd gear pinion (0.8 module) to bring down the FDR or use the Kawahara conversion which would also bring down the FDR by using 46T / 17T crown gears to lower the internal drive ratio.
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