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Old 04-29-2004, 12:53 AM   #1231
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Thats all for now!
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:55 AM   #1232
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Questions questions!

Whats that back roll bar? Does it work OK? Where can I get one?

That looks like the Kawahara front conversion. Is it any good? Does it make any difference to the steering?

Whats the atomic weight of Boron?? Sorry wrong forum... LOL
The rear swaybar is made by Five Stars. I heard it is a bit sloppy (needs shimming), but otherwise is not bad. It certainly looks good!

You can order from Harmony in HK or from Japan. The Kawahara front end makes the front suspension tougher (stock is weak), and it also changes the geometry a bit to be more suited for foam tires (at least thats what kawahara claims it does)
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Old 04-29-2004, 05:02 AM   #1233
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Ok cheers

I just tried to fit the rear MTX-3 uprights, here's what I found

The ball ends dont fit the uprights so you will need these as well
The outer bearing is not the same size so you will need these for the MTX-3

I dont know about the axles until I get the proper bearings
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Old 04-29-2004, 05:05 AM   #1234
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Do you have a direct link for the rear sway bar?

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2004, 05:54 AM   #1235
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ziggy,

I dug out the parts list for the V-One R conversion to the Mugen rear end.

Mugen T0229 F/R axle shaft 1
Mugen T0230 F/r drive shaft 1
Mugen T0139 Rear up right 1
Mugen D0105R king pin 1
Mugen J0110 adjust nut 1
3 Racing mtx3-008 wheel adaptor 1
10 x 15 ball bearing 2
6 x 13 ball bearing 2

Dunno if this helps. Remember I haven't tried it, so this may not be totally correct.
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:09 AM   #1236
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Thanks.

I'll try the MTX-3 uprights on the FW-05. I was going to fit them on the Evo but will give more effort to the 05 this season.

Despite all the advice i removed all the rear droop and it has improved the off power steering! Sometimes you just have to try these things!

Cheers
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:13 AM   #1237
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Don't the VoneRR axles fit? Do i have to buy the MTX-3 ones? and are the drive shafts different lengths?

Cheers
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:24 AM   #1238
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Don't the VoneRR axles fit? Do i have to buy the MTX-3 ones? and are the drive shafts different lengths?

Cheers
Remember, I haven't tried this conversion yet. I'll wait for the RRR and see what it brings.
But I'd expect you'll need the MTX-3 axles - it's because of the wheel bearings - spacing and I.D.
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:26 AM   #1239
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345

Despite all the advice i removed all the rear droop and it has improved the off power steering! Sometimes you just have to try these things!
Errrrm, that is the result I'd expect - were you told different?
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:33 AM   #1240
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Despite all the advice i removed all the rear droop and it has improved the off power steering! Sometimes you just have to try these things!
What do you mean when you say you removed all rear droop?

Did you to say that you took take off the rear droop screws and let the chassis have more uptravel or did you make less uptravel (less rear droop) which translates to higher numbers on the droop scale?
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:40 AM   #1241
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Yeah, we need to establish an international standard as to how we measure and describe droop so we're all on the same page.
Some people say -2mm and another person interprets it as +2mm - very confusing.
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:42 AM   #1242
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I set the ride height and then when you lift the chasis the amount of travel the chasis makes upwards before the wheels come off the ground used to be around 7-9mm. Now when i lift the chassis the wheels come off the ground straight away.

In theory under braking this will allow the weight to move forward more and so improve off power steering. In this case the opposite happened!

I also increased the front droop from 0 to 4 mm (the chassis can be lifted at the front 4 mm before the wheels leave the ground)

This improves on power steering as per the theory!

The addition of the back roll bar, now i have changed the exhaust manifold, improved mid corner stability at high speed!

Cheers
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:07 AM   #1243
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
I set the ride height and then when you lift the chasis the amount of travel the chasis makes upwards before the wheels come off the ground used to be around 7-9mm. Now when i lift the chassis the wheels come off the ground straight away.

In theory under braking this will allow the weight to move forward more and so improve off power steering. In this case the opposite happened!
It's all about weight transfer. If the rear now has less droop as you describe above, I'd expect less weight to be transferred to the front - therefore less off power steering as you enter the corner.

Quote:

I also increased the front droop from 0 to 4 mm (the chassis can be lifted at the front 4 mm before the wheels leave the ground)

This improves on power steering as per the theory!
If the front now has more droop as you describe above, I'd expect more weight to be transferred to the rear on corner exit - therefore less on power steering.

Is this what's happening?
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:11 AM   #1244
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I like to call it "lift" since we are really measuring how much the chassis lifts from race ride-height. My racing buddies and I here in Michigan have been using 'lift' instead of talking about droop settings. Works quite well, even if we all are running different brands of cars.

So, if one of them asked me how much 'lift' I was running, I'd say, "2mm" which meant from race ride-height my chassis would lift 2 mm. Simple and less confusing. No gauge readings, etc...

-Rich

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing


Yeah, we need to establish an international standard as to how we measure and describe droop so we're all on the same page.
Some people say -2mm and another person interprets it as +2mm - very confusing.
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Old 04-29-2004, 08:15 AM   #1245
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So my car has 0mm rear lift and 4mm front lift

Tatlor-Racing. No its the opposite of what is expected! I dont know why!

Perhaps its the same as the old pilots when they firsts broke the sound barrier. The controls acted in reverse as they got to the speed of sound!! LOL... maybe a lower gearing!!

Cheers
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