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Old 04-17-2004, 10:39 AM   #1111
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Quote:
Originally posted by TOEBSTER2
Just wondering. Does the Kyosho car require a bunch updates to be competitve or does it work well out of the box. I currently run a NTC3 and I am looking to get a second car, but want something else non belt.
i agree with kyosho updating it's car, they're the ifmar 1/8 on-road and off-road champs,and i thinks the want to do the same on nitro touring, they won the pre-worlds using this car,the want to prove that kyosho is the top dawg at the moment
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Old 04-17-2004, 01:10 PM   #1112
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Default Upgrades...

I think the best parts that Kyosho need to upgrade on their cars are the raw materials used. Especially on the metal parts....

Take the clutch pinion as an example, the original Kyosho pinion would show wear on about 3 tanks of fuel, while the plastic gears still shows minimal wear. I always wonder what type of material that Kyosho uses on their pinions, that they are even softer than the plastic gears! I personally use a Mugen clutch bell and pinions on my FW05. As the Mugen pinions does not wear as much as the Kyosho ones I don't have to change pinions as frequent....

I also uses Mugen ball links too. The Kyosho aluminum balls wears easily and give play, while the Mugen balls are smooth and more resistance to wear, which provides better precision.
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Old 04-17-2004, 01:27 PM   #1113
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Default Re: Upgrades...

Quote:
Originally posted by jasoncsc
I think the best parts that Kyosho need to upgrade on their cars are the raw materials used. Especially on the metal parts....

Take the clutch pinion as an example, the original Kyosho pinion would show wear on about 3 tanks of fuel, while the plastic gears still shows minimal wear. I always wonder what type of material that Kyosho uses on their pinions, that they are even softer than the plastic gears! I personally use a Mugen clutch bell and pinions on my FW05. As the Mugen pinions does not wear as much as the Kyosho ones I don't have to change pinions as frequent....

I also uses Mugen ball links too. The Kyosho aluminum balls wears easily and give play, while the Mugen balls are smooth and more resistance to wear, which provides better precision.
So, mugen 0.8 pinions work on the 05R?

thanks
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Old 04-17-2004, 01:31 PM   #1114
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Default Re: Race Report

Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I was in a race tonight in Taiwan with the FW05R. Broke my car earlier and did not get much practice and only qualified 3rd in the B. The main was 30 minutes and was leading for much of the race until I ran out of battery with 2 minutes left!!!!

The car held up great. Took a few hits from overzealous drivers and a big crash at the end of straight when I ran out of juice. But the car held up and the only thing broke was the muffler poped out.
Good work! Qualifing 3rd in the B main is already an accomplishment. I've seen many taiwan racers when I went back a few years ago, and they are hardcore.

Kudos!
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Old 04-17-2004, 01:36 PM   #1115
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Default Mugen pinions

You have to use the Mugen clutch bell to use Mugen pinions. Its a direct fit to Kyosho clutch.
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Old 04-17-2004, 01:38 PM   #1116
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Default Re: Mugen pinions

Quote:
Originally posted by jasoncsc
You have to use the Mugen clutch bell to use Mugen pinions. Its a direct fit to Kyosho clutch.
I think using the FiveStars lightened clutch bell would work too
Because it is made for Mugen and Kyosho.

Thanks, thats good to know. I have seen the worn out pinions on the 05R and am not excited.
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Old 04-17-2004, 02:33 PM   #1117
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Does anyone had a problem with the alumunium center shaft? the shaft pin in my fw-05r practically were gone after 10 minutes leading a race. My diagnostic are the dogbone shaft should had grease or contact grease..Because if it don't had any, the alumunium shaft will expand due the heat coming from metal to metal touching... could anyone helped me with this?
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Old 04-17-2004, 02:44 PM   #1118
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The pins came out of mine very quickly too, I have put heat shrink over the drive cup.
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Old 04-17-2004, 03:40 PM   #1119
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Default Re: Re: Race Report

Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Was you using rubber or foam tyres? What hardness?

Thanks
Foam, 35 front 40 rear. Traction rolled a couple of times bu had to go with the softer front to fight a push.
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Old 04-17-2004, 05:51 PM   #1120
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Quote:
Originally posted by juki
Does anyone had a problem with the alumunium center shaft? the shaft pin in my fw-05r practically were gone after 10 minutes leading a race. My diagnostic are the dogbone shaft should had grease or contact grease..Because if it don't had any, the alumunium shaft will expand due the heat coming from metal to metal touching... could anyone helped me with this?
Which one? Front or rear? Do you use your brake a lot? If so, that might have something to do with it. Also, make sure you use the o-ring in the front so the bone won't move bake and forth excessively. I had 1.5 gallon through my current set up and there is almost no wear on the drive bones. However, I use a one-way seldom use brake.
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:27 PM   #1121
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Just a quick question, i had a look at a Fw05-R today and compared too a NTC3/LD3 the drive train does not seem as free as these? Anyone else have any thoughts....

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Old 04-17-2004, 11:31 PM   #1122
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Default Re: Re: Re: Race Report

Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Foam, 35 front 40 rear. Traction rolled a couple of times bu had to go with the softer front to fight a push.
A lot of people are complaining about the lack of steering on the FW-05. The front conversion is supposed to improve things.

Any suggestions on improving steering?

What rear roll bar was you running?
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Old 04-18-2004, 01:58 AM   #1123
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ziggy, some guys locally find that the optional ackerman plate (using the A hole/the forward-most one) helped a bit in that regard. Then again, some said it just made it twitchy and nothing else. Part#VSW016... retail about 20.99 for a simple little aluminum option ackerman plate ( ). Something to try.

I also use a skinnier front end (198mm) to try get rid of the push, but it is still there a bit of it. Luckily the track is tight so the push isn't a horrible attribute, just one you've got to try and calm down.

Oh yeah, stock black rear sway bar... the gold one doesn't seem to help for those that tried it.


And my FW is about as free as a nitro tc3. As long as its shimmed right, the different cars should be similarly free. But if you go with the machined bevel gears, that'll free up the drive train a lot more too.
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Old 04-18-2004, 03:33 AM   #1124
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My rear sway bar interferes with the exhaust manifold. Any tips on fitting it?

I also disconnected the front roll bar
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Old 04-18-2004, 06:40 AM   #1125
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I had the front anti-roll bar removed as well. Helps the steering a lot.

What I've found is that the steering is fantastic in small and tight corners but the car has a tendency to push in mid speed corners and large sweepers. I just bought the Kawahara front end conversion kit and that suppose to help by lower the roll center.
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