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Old 04-15-2004, 10:54 PM   #1051
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move it towards the back of the car
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:54 PM   #1052
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Originally posted by jeffreylin
Interesting about Tironi's car. Everything else looks pretty stock except the 3Racing alumnium bulkhead. I had other 3Racing alumnium parts on my car but I've now took most out (for weight) leaving only the front bulkhead.
Too bad only 3Racing makes this optional front bulkhead piece..
It would be nice to see other option houses to come up with something, and im surprised that virtually none has yet? (except kawahara, which is a new design)
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:57 PM   #1053
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I believe the new steering hubs that will be included in the v-one rrr kit will have the whole moved forword . They will also fit the fw-05r car as most already know.
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:05 PM   #1054
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Quote:
Originally posted by B
Too bad only 3Racing makes this optional front bulkhead piece..
It would be nice to see other option houses to come up with something, and im surprised that virtually none has yet? (except kawahara, which is a new design)
Or Kyosho for that matter of fact. The stock one breaks too easily in a crash.
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:23 PM   #1055
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Originally posted by jeffreylin
Thanks D. Appreciate the picture. I think I's stick with the stock rear upright for now as my rear is absolutely planted and there is little need to make adjustments there. It's steering that I need...
It may be the case that your rear is too planted that you lack steering ! With the uprights, you are able to go with a higher rear roll center and make the rear roll less = more front bite and better cornering speed.
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:25 PM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Why the mugen rear upright instead?
Manticore and I did some experiments around 2 years ago with Mugen MTX 3 hubs on the rear of our V1Rs. Basically we both found that using these hubs optimised the rear camber change and roll centre of the V1R much better than the stock items. It seems to be more important in faster tracks and with foam tires. At the time the Mugen MTX3 was handling far better than the V1RR and we were curious as to why. In the end it came down to something fairly simple, optimised camber change and ackerman angles. The V1RR Evolution addressed the front end of the car quite nicely to my mind and I found that the rear was the area that was lacking on the stock Evo. Once the MTX3 hubs were added it was much better (Kyosho must agree with me if you see the new hubs!) With this setup my car was pretty darned good, but I found the biggest area where the V1RR Evo with mod rear was lacking was steering, especially initial turn in. I unfortunately never really solved that problem. The two biggest things I could not remove from my EVO mod were:

1. Initial turn in was lacking.
2. Push on corner exit.

When I say lacking in both cases it was good, but not MTX3 good.
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:53 PM   #1057
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
1. Initial turn in was lacking.
2. Push on corner exit.
Perhaps you need to make the rear roll center higher with the modded Mugen hubs. It will surely make the rear more loose.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:07 AM   #1058
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The Mugen style rear hub are deffinately better in the fact that you can fine tune the rear of the car better as far as roll centers. The stock rear hubs only have an upper and a lower , the Mugen style allows your to be in the middle somewhere if you like. If you need the steering try and look in the front end first. Ackerman really has a big affect on cars as far as steering is concerned. You can also try and use the pistons from the fantom car in the front . They have a 1.2 mm hole instead of a 1.0 mm hole. This will allow the front end to fall quiker entering a corner. You can also drill the hole to 1.2mm yourself. If this is done , I suggest using about 10-15 wt softer oil in the front . If you do not wish to take this route , or if you have plenty of steering on the exit , you can play with rear roll center or put on a thicker rear sway bar. Just remember that both of these afect entering and exiting differently. A thicker rear sway bar will have more off power steering and more on power push.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:15 AM   #1059
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.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:18 AM   #1060
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Quote:
Originally posted by B
If i remember right, the rear roll center cannot be changed ont he EVO

anyone correct me if im wrong plz
By changing the upper arm link position you change the roll center.

The Orion web site has detail roll center information here:

http://www.teamorion.com/faq/car-handling3.asp
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:21 AM   #1061
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
By changing the upper arm link position you change the roll center.

The Orion web site has detail roll center information here:

http://www.teamorion.com/faq/car-handling3.asp
hehe, that is what i just remembered, so I took off the post. You sure reply FAST!!

I don't think the roll center can be adjusted using separate blocks though (like the MTX-3)
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:27 AM   #1062
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Quote:
Originally posted by ATOMIC
A thicker rear sway bar will have more off power steering and more on power push.
I believe a thicker rear sway bar will give you off power as well as on power steering.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:30 AM   #1063
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Quote:
Originally posted by ATOMIC
You can also drill the hole to 1.2mm yourself. If this is done , I suggest using about 10-15 wt softer oil in the front .
Perhaps I'm not understanding correct but usually, the trend is to use thicker shock oil with the 1.2 mm hole pistons.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:46 AM   #1064
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It really depends on what the circumstance or Scenario is. Set up on roll of the car really have alot to do with how sway bars make a car react . Sway bars take away roll (roll usually eaquals traction) . However when exiting they can work either way as far as traction is concerned depending on how much the car rolls from the entry to the apex. I guess a better way to say it would be that a thicker rear sway bar usually gives more steering entering and more forward acceleration exiting due to the fact that the car is flatter during the exit (keeping the rear of the car more level which in turn gives the tires more contact patch). If you do not have enough wieght transfer to the rear of the car under power though the car will get loose.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:51 AM   #1065
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As far as the shock oil , the norm is to go thicker as the piston gets larger. I am just refering to things that I found with the FW-05r in general. The bigger piston and the thinner oil allows the car to dive harder going in and square up quiker coming out to prepare the car for the next corner . This is used on smaller tracks normally. It deffinately makes the car feel more twitchy but response is very nice.
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