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Old 04-09-2004, 02:33 AM   #871
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
I run mine as follows

Rear camber 2 deg
Rear Toe 2 deg
Rear shock Black spring 35wt oil outer hole
Rear swaybar Black
Rear link Upper Upper

Front Camber 2 deg
Front toe 0deg
Front Caster 8deg
Front shock silver spring 35wt oil inner hole
Front Sway 45 deg

Handles like scalextric.
I think I should also try the silver springs and inner front shock position.
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Old 04-09-2004, 02:34 AM   #872
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
My FW-05 is half way there if I can work this out...
I hear that you did pretty good in the Airtronics race? So you should be able to iron out things then. But I think playing around with the sway bars, the rear toe in and the rear diff should solve your on power steering issues.

One last question. Can I ask what body you run? Perhaps one other suggestion is to reduce downforce in the rear body wing. Try a smaller one.
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Old 04-09-2004, 02:44 AM   #873
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I hear that you did pretty good in the Airtronics race? So you should be able to iron out things then. But I think playing around with the sway bars, the rear toe in and the rear diff should solve your on power steering issues.

One last question. Can I ask what body you run? Perhaps one other suggestion is to reduce downforce in the rear body wing. Try a smaller one.
It's a case of mistaken identity. There is another Jeffrey Lin, and a much better driver at that. He is OFNA's factory driver using a LD3, coincidentally a shaft car as well.

I am running the Protoform Alfa body. I don't think it the body so much since the problem occurs at low speed as well. In fact, the problem is more servere at low speed and not so bad at high speed sweepers.
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Old 04-09-2004, 02:55 AM   #874
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Thanks Taylor-Racing for your reply. What I said agrees with what you said. More droop = less downward wheel travel. I never thought the front will lift under power, I mean that with more droop, the wheel can move further down, which means the chassis can move further up. By limiting how much the wheels will go down, in effect you limit how much the front will rise, thus limiting the weight transfer.

However, D and Losi seems to believe that by allowing the front wheel to go down further, the front will have more contact with the ground during acceleration, and provide more steering.

My FW-05 is half way there if I can work this out...
As you quoted previously, here is a snip of what Losi say:
As you increase your front droop (making the shock longer) you will smooth the car out going into the turn . . . . . .

My question to that would be:
How does the "available" front droop have any effect on corner entry since the suspension is in compression.

Anyway, forget that - what you say is correct. Yes, try the silver springs if you have them. Generally, soften up the front and/or harden the rear. You'll get it sorted.

BTW, what's the height of the FW engine mounts?
I'm doing a little C of G surgery on our EVO and I think I might have gone a bit overboard. I'm down to 13.5mm so far.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:08 AM   #875
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
It's a case of mistaken identity. There is another Jeffrey Lin, and a much better driver at that. He is OFNA's factory driver using a LD3, coincidentally a shaft car as well.
Oh, ok.

Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I am running the Protoform Alfa body. I don't think it the body so much since the problem occurs at low speed as well. In fact, the problem is more servere at low speed and not so bad at high speed sweepers.
Just guessing... I tried a friend's Alfa shell and I did not like how much understeer it gave to the car. Perhaps the wing that I tired was too big.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:09 AM   #876
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
31581 does not come with a front one-way. 31582 comes with the red clutch shoes too. It's heavier and suppose to engage slower (less abruptly), helps with low traction surface. The red pads are softer and also less abrupt brake action.

I don't know abou the Kawahara conversion kits.
Thanks

I have been having a look at the instructions on Kyosho's website and i can't believe no tie rods for the frnt arms? How do you adjust the frnt toe?

Also,

Anybody had any thoughts on how you could make the front one way a solid. I have got use to this benefit on the 710.

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Old 04-09-2004, 03:17 AM   #877
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bundy_Bear
Thanks

I have been having a look at the instructions on Kyosho's website and i can't believe no tie rods for the frnt arms? How do you adjust the frnt toe?

Also,

Anybody had any thoughts on how you could make the front one way a solid. I have got use to this benefit on the 710.

BB
Yea, I don't know what they are thinking, but I end up buying the titanium adjustable connecting rods instead.

As for the front spool, I would just put really heavy oil in the front diff or glue the front one-way dead, but what a waste!
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:20 AM   #878
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
BTW, what's the height of the FW engine mounts?
I'm doing a little C of G surgery on our EVO and I think I might have gone a bit overboard. I'm down to 13.5mm so far.
I don't know, but I know that my Novarossi is already touching the chassis. To get it any lower I would have to cut a hole on the chassis under the engine.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:25 AM   #879
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Yea, I don't know what they are thinking, but I end up buying the titanium adjustable connecting rods instead.

As for the front spool, I would just put really heavy oil in the front diff or glue the front one-way dead, but what a waste!
Did you have to sand down the plastic ball ends to get it too the right size?

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Old 04-09-2004, 03:28 AM   #880
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Quote:
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Did you have to sand down the plastic ball ends to get it too the right size?

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I actually cut them with a exacto knife to make them fit the turnbuckle.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:34 AM   #881
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I think his more a Hong Nor factory driver? but yeah OFNA rebage so many brands, Hong Nor being one of many..

Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
It's a case of mistaken identity. There is another Jeffrey Lin, and a much better driver at that. He is OFNA's factory driver using a LD3, coincidentally a shaft car as well.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:35 AM   #882
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I don't know, but I know that my Novarossi is already touching the chassis. To get it any lower I would have to cut a hole on the chassis under the engine.
Really! In that case they must be about 13mm high.
I might have to make some mounts with the chassis mounting holes 2mm offset from the engine mounting holes - bugger.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:36 AM   #883
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Cheers....

Bearings.... Rubber sheilded or metal?

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Old 04-09-2004, 05:46 AM   #884
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Let me just say this: when considering all of the possibilities of adjustments to make to get rid of your push (or for any condition) ALWAYS make the adjustments that lead to improving the actual problem FIRST (Positive adjustment). Example: If adjusting sway bar is the only option take away front sway bar first to add traction at the front FIRST; stiffen the rear to lose rear traction LAST (negative adjustment).

If there are more options of adjustments to perform, do the positive adjustments first, then the negative adjustments.

You will end up with a better setup in the end.
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Old 04-09-2004, 06:36 AM   #885
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Jeffery: Try running the rear black spring in front and run slight lighter oil in the front.
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