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Old 09-25-2005, 05:02 PM   #5101
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thats not all true, you have seen the growth of prices of touring cars havent you? well i read in this web site that running a 235mm car is cheaper than a touring car in a 12month period, for touring cars there are in a 12months many parts that are replaced and wheels most definatly, the wheels dont last long with that amount of foam so id say that you would be replacing them every race meeting or every second meeting where as in 235mm class wheels can last up to 3 race meets and they handle better and the body styles are not bad at all so in the long run 235mm class is better to be in when it comes to spending money and if no one makes the move back to 235mm then the class wont grow, if you do or anyone else it will and you ll see that this class will become as it was once, the class to be in if you want acceleration,speed and great handling, i know ill be supporting the class, end of this yr im going into 235mm with my brother who owns a NEO Attack MX2 which doesnt exist anymore yes so have a good think about it.
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Old 09-25-2005, 11:18 PM   #5102
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Almost a year now... and if i can recall back my FW journey was -

2004 Before
FW05R, Diff, Original Chasis, Rear loose on power, Hard to drive

2005 Now
FW05RR, OneWay, Shimo Chasis, Rear grip on power, Easy to drive

Now almost every weekend i run FW05RR. Running strong and it nail those apex on my local technical parking lot track. My FW still running strong and fast
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Old 09-26-2005, 12:41 AM   #5103
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i agree with you esham. She's a dream to drive. I'm no racing expert but i don't have a problem driving this car.
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Old 09-26-2005, 04:37 AM   #5104
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Default Some problem

Hi guys,

I hope someone can give me an idea how to overcome this, the engine always die when after several laps, ive tried to replace a new glow plug, and its still the same thing. I wonder why, but it runs normally i could run for several laps, but the engine die and i cant finish even a tank without this problem. Im using 16%, and Hot glow plug.(Even tried the medium plug but still the same).

Hope you can help solve this out. Thanks a lot.
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Old 09-26-2005, 08:53 AM   #5105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulletdays
Hi guys,

I hope someone can give me an idea how to overcome this, the engine always die when after several laps, ive tried to replace a new glow plug, and its still the same thing. I wonder why, but it runs normally i could run for several laps, but the engine die and i cant finish even a tank without this problem. Im using 16%, and Hot glow plug.(Even tried the medium plug but still the same).

Hope you can help solve this out. Thanks a lot.
I've just had a similar problem trying to get an old STS Dragon S3 to sing, it would run fine for about 1/3rd tank then just fade and die, yet when richened 1/4 turn it would not rev enough to even change gear, but someone suggested playing with the head shims, found this at 5 thou, so I reduced it to 3 thou and had loads more torque which actually made it go faster on a richer mixture but it was still not enough, so I reduced to 2 thou, richened another 1/4 and it was loads better, so much so that I now need to up the 2nd gear pinion by a tooth, and it runs the full tank no problems.
Motor is still down on straight line speed as it is only a 1hp motor but the torque now makes it very drivable on the infield.
When money improves I'll get a new one again, possibly a Rossi RR.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:14 AM   #5106
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Default Hi Nimo

HI Nimo,

Im just a begginer, do you mean that replacing the cylinder head shims might solve the problem? and also what is 5 thou?

Thanks really.
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Old 09-27-2005, 04:40 AM   #5107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulletdays
HI Nimo,

Im just a begginer, do you mean that replacing the cylinder head shims might solve the problem? and also what is 5 thou?

Thanks really.
Bulletdays, it can be very subjective cause of problems. I do suggest you to refer to your local rc friends or your hobbyshop to give you an advise on this matter. It can be due to engine tuning, engine quality, plug etc. because sometime it's easier to a person to diagnose the engine problem by physically listen, tune etc.
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:32 AM   #5108
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Default thanks for that

Thanks but i want to learn it myself..
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:37 AM   #5109
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Actually ive already made it running fine, the only thing is that it wont able to finish the tank.. i think that it just need a little more adjustment, maybe what they've said is right the bottom end is a bit rich..thanks a lot esham
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Old 09-27-2005, 07:04 PM   #5110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulletdays
Actually ive already made it running fine, the only thing is that it wont able to finish the tank.. i think that it just need a little more adjustment, maybe what they've said is right the bottom end is a bit rich..thanks a lot esham
Ok then you might need to look into these articles. The bottom needle shouldn't set too lean or too rich. ( Lean will cause more damage then rich setting). And to check if your bottom needle is set about correct pls. refer to belows articles or come to a level is by the engine idle charateristic. On high speed the throttle / bottom needle is open wide and the amount of fuel goes to carburator is determine by high speed needle. And when at the end of the speed straight come to corner if you release the throttle, the bottom needle will be back to close up to initial idle screw gap setting, during this time the amount of fuel left in the carburateor will be next control by the bottom needle setting. If the bottom setting is too rich it will bog the engine and the engine can stall but if the bottom needle is too lean the engine will rev high ( even you already release the throttle) starving for fuel. For the pinch test i recommend 3-5 second is safe and good initial setting.


Josh Cyrul 101 tuning
pinch test for bottom needle
How to tune engine
All about carburator
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Old 09-28-2005, 01:40 AM   #5111
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Default Hi there esham

Thanks for all these articles, i will read it and learn from it...and see how it goes..ill let you know..thanks a lot.
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:16 PM   #5112
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hey guys my fw05rr is for sale. please see the getting out of the hobby sale in the northwest forums. thanks, doug
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:21 AM   #5113
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Default front anti-rollbar adjustment

Before anyone will say it: YES I've read the manual on the setup sheet. I still don't get how to adjust the front anti-rollbar. Darn, japanese documentation english! Since I'm the only guy on the racetrack with an 05RR (the rest are NTC3s and V1RRRs) I'm not sure if anyone there can help. How do you adjust the front anti-rollbar? In spite of how they describe it on the manual i can't imagine how it is done.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:56 AM   #5114
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It is easier if you remove the foam bumper, them undo the grub screws then use plyers (or something similar) to rotate the bars.
Do make sure the two parts of the bar are not pushed together too tightly, squashing the front suspension helps this setting.
Flat (horizontal) is softest and upright (vertical) is stiffest, so choose a setting between the two that you want.
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:00 AM   #5115
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Default Muffler?

Does anyone owns a FW05RR kit that comes with Sirio S12TUP Evo2 engine?

Does it comes with a tuned pipe and manifold. Someone told me it comes with a muffler, what type of pipe is that, anyone care to share the pics of this muffler?
Thanks
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