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Old 07-27-2005, 03:19 AM   #4936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ch4dwick
Ok, what about the ackerman settings? How do you change it in the FW05RR?
You'll need one of the optional steering plates, but I think the kit set up is all you'll need.
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:23 AM   #4937
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Default Oversteering

I have the option carbon steering plate which has two settings A & C. So which one gives more steering response - the one nearer to the front or rear?

Just some updates on my race last week.

The car was quick on sweepers but when it came to tight intermediate corners it lost our on time compared to the RRR.

Major problem i experienced was with the over steering and back getting loose during on-power steering into and out of corners. Tried using softer rear settings and black anti roll which minimised it but still had the tendency to fish tail. Even went to the extent of using lower shore tires in the rear and sacrificing on some steering.

Track condition: medium traction, asphalt/flat surface with no banks

My settings were:

Front
1way
40shore (GQ)
Black rear springs/50wt
shock position at middle hole (graphite shock tower)
anti-roll = flat
RRR 0 degree knuckle
199mm width

Rear
30k diff
37shore (GQ)
Silver Rear springs/50wt
shock position lowest (graphite shock tower)
RRR rear hubs
'L' rear blocks
Camber/Upper link (almost horizontal)
200mm width

The surprising thing is when i changed to kawahara tires (40 shore r+f) the car was almost perfect without oversteering tendencies.

In my opinion it's either GQ tires are inferior to Kawahara ones or did i miss something here?! Suspect i wouldn't have had much problems if i ran 20k rear diff. But then again, i like the harder punch with 30k.

Would appreciate some thoughts here. thanks guys.

Oh on another note, I used the APP brake set and the brakes were very consistent and precise throughout the race (Highly recommended). Had it at minimal effect so that it could slow down just enough to get into tight corners and hairpins after long straights without losing speed.
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:28 AM   #4938
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Kawahara tires has 1mm offset, thus when you changed to Kawahara you effectively made your car wider and more stable.
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Old 07-27-2005, 11:24 PM   #4939
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Default set up

try 10,000 rear,with frt spool ,or 120,000 difflock,droop 1,droop rear 3mm
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:28 AM   #4940
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(See below)
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:29 AM   #4941
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Thanks Jeff - Yup I knew that running Kawahara gave me better traction due to the extended width but it was actually ilegal as the rear width was more than 200mm that day! Keeping in mind, I still have the 2mm offset bearing on the wheel shaft at the rear.

Is the kawahara offset similar - (front and rear 1mm)? And also what would be a good starting track width to run for front & rear?

Bobby, thanks for your thoughts but will running solid spool infront create better roll resistance especially getting a tighter line into corners compared to A one-way which has the tendency to over shoot corners? And yes, i'm currently runnning 0 - front and 3-rear drop settings.
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:56 AM   #4942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Thanks Jeff - Yup I knew that running Kawahara gave me better traction due to the extended width but it was actually ilegal as the rear width was more than 200mm that day! Keeping in mind, I still have the 2mm offset bearing on the wheel shaft at the rear.

Is the kawahara offset similar - (front and rear 1mm)? And also what would be a good starting track width to run for front & rear?

Bobby, thanks for your thoughts but will running solid spool infront create better roll resistance especially getting a tighter line into corners compared to A one-way which has the tendency to over shoot corners? And yes, i'm currently runnning 0 - front and 3-rear drop settings.
Width is yet another tuning option that depends on track and traction condition. Generally narrow = less stable but more traction at the limit and vice versa.
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Old 07-28-2005, 05:28 AM   #4943
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Kawahara tires have no offset in the front and +1 mm offset for the rears.

If your car is oversteering when you are getting on the throttle, the easiest fix would be to go with a thinner rear diff oil.

A solid front axle will scrub a lot more speed when you are coasting into corners, and will also tend to lose some initial turn-in for obvious reasons. But for the FW, less off-throttle corner speed could be a good thing, because it coasts so much.
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:07 AM   #4944
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Just need to also know more that when it comes to racing lines - there are different lines for shaft and belt driven cars as i've read somewhere here. Can someone please share. Does it mean that we need to take a 'wider to narrow' line to maximise on the FW free rolling characteristics or 'fast-in, fast-out' or whatever other ways there are?

Most of the time find myself losing out on time to belt cars especially the RRR in the in-field sections where there are lot of tight and twisty corners after corners but not much of a difference on straights and sweepers.

thanks.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:18 AM   #4945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Im2lazy
Kawahara tires have no offset in the front and +1 mm offset for the rears.
I am pretty sure there is offset in the front as well. Compare them on the car with a set of GRP's and you should see Kawahara's make your front wider.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:47 AM   #4946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
I am pretty sure there is offset in the front as well. Compare them on the car with a set of GRP's and you should see Kawahara's make your front wider.
I read that the fronts aren't offset in a mag. Not all of them get it right...

Oh, and I got to run Swauger's old used up Kawahara tires! I'm on a small race-budget and I take old tires most willingly. Two rears were barely chunked, but the rest of 12 tires I found were in such good shape I used them with good results for 2 race meetings after The Man left town. Great wear, and good grip. Oh yeah, some of these guys were in the trash, but being the hobby hermit I am; I went digging for racers' gold- the perfect tire.
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Old 07-28-2005, 09:28 AM   #4947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Just need to also know more that when it comes to racing lines - there are different lines for shaft and belt driven cars as i've read somewhere here. Can someone please share. Does it mean that we need to take a 'wider to narrow' line to maximise on the FW free rolling characteristics or 'fast-in, fast-out' or whatever other ways there are?

Most of the time find myself losing out on time to belt cars especially the RRR in the in-field sections where there are lot of tight and twisty corners after corners but not much of a difference on straights and sweepers.

thanks.
This gets into the physics of what is going on when we're piloting our favored RRR or FW (NTC3, whatever). The vicious belt vs. shaft deal.

Well, one thing I notice easily about my FW is that it doesn't decellerate quite like a normal TC. My car has an extremely free drive-train (most of the time... get lazy rest of the time) and so it isn't unusual to find myself just cruising around the track for the first time... getting used to the layout... and I come upon a fast sweeper like the end of the straight. A car like a belted RRR will have some drag from the drivetrain which will give it a slight amount of braking while coasting which is called drag brake. People talk about drag brake normally in terms of adjusting the brake linkage so as to lightly apply the vehicle's brakes when the trigger is at neutral, however this wears out the pads and what not... anyway a belt car will slow up some when you lift off the throttle coming into a corner which will cause the car's CG to move forward as the front end digs in a little bit more. Meanwhile, a shaft car will most likely want to just plow through a corner unless real care is taken to brake properly. If I closely watch I corner speed and get my braking points nailed I can get my car to pivot around the corner so I can get on the throttle as early as possible, so you avoid those time-killing corners where you enter too quickly and the car just runs past the apex resulting in loopy corners. The fast guys know how to get on the throttle coming out of the corners, because coming into corners isn't too hard to get and corner speed is a set-up thing, but coming out of the corners is the part where you want to show your pretty little motor off. But if you're tires are busy trying to find grip as you enter a corner in the infield at too high a rate of speed, you will soon find your car is further from the racing line than the fast dudes.

long...
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Old 07-28-2005, 10:22 PM   #4948
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On the point of 'trigger control' and driving smoothly which produces the best lap times and better mileage - does you guys mean to say punch when on the straight and release before it comes to a corner, letting it glide in and gradually increase throttle when exiting the corner or like me, i have the tendency to blimp/rev before going into the corner and sometimes blimp even during mid corner - that's not necessarily faster right?

Just need to know how to used the advantages of the FW and the right driving style for better lap times.

On the Kawahara tires bit, yes the front seems to have more offset than any of the other makes (GQ, Jaco, Ellegi) the back is definitely more by 1 or 2mm. I reconfirmed that last night. swapped tires on the the setup board and the front/rear width changed.
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:20 AM   #4949
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I've had good results running a spool front on my '05RR....give it a try, it makes up for the missing belt drag on corner entry.
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:25 AM   #4950
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Default where to get spool from ?

where can a spool be purchased from ?

is their a part number for it ?

thanks
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