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Old 05-23-2005, 12:37 PM   #4651
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Default gearing

i run 21/50 27/45, 37t ringgear ,frt & rear, 37shore frt&rear 58mm frt,59mmrear,frt 0droop,3mmdroop rear.i also run the 3r frt knuckles.
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Old 05-23-2005, 12:43 PM   #4652
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Originally Posted by impalabob64
i run 21/50 27/45, 37t ringgear ,frt & rear, 37shore frt&rear 58mm frt,59mmrear,frt 0droop,3mmdroop rear.i also run the 3r frt knuckles.
And that car flies!!!!!!
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Old 05-23-2005, 12:45 PM   #4653
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my eng jp modified rs12 s1 ,pipe skyline 1piece combo
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Old 05-23-2005, 01:48 PM   #4654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uaerc
hI gUYS

i am upgrading my Fwo5rr with 37T Bevel gear sets. front and rear.

Can someone tell me what is the best pinion and Spur combination with this setup. currently i am on stock gears. I got all the gears possible with me should i go for the max.. to be the fastest car. or low to mid pinion on 1st gear and high T pinion on the second.

Also I would be replacing the TR with the OS 12 TZ T5 engine.

10k diff oils in front and 3k diff oil in the rear.

Currently the Car skids away at turns. I used a lot of toe in 2.5 i think. high camber etc. No roll bars front and rear. 500 shock oils front and rear. Silver soft springs front and rear.ride height is around 7-6 mm

any other things i should keep in mind. My track is low traction. any other tricks to make my car as stable as in the world championships. Those guys drive as the car is stuck to the ground...... do they use magnets in their tires ??
The new 38T ring gears seem to be the best option. You can keep the good acceleration from the 40 or 39T ring gears yet have enough gear to cope with all but the longest of straights. I would suggest 21/27 and 50/45. The car will be ballistic with this combo.

You can go to a much thicker diff oil in the front if the car is a handfull to drive. Also, use the L rear suspension mounts to lower the roll center in the rear. I'll be the first to admit the FW-05R struggles with low traction.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:30 PM   #4655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impalabob64
i run 21/50 27/45, 37t ringgear ,frt & rear, 37shore frt&rear 58mm frt,59mmrear,frt 0droop,3mmdroop rear.i also run the 3r frt knuckles.
Hi Impalabob64, you use 3r frt? I find that with the 3r frt my car does a 360deg turn everytime i excelerate into a turn. It fishtails whenever i turn the steering slightly. Anything else you add to the standard car other than the 3r frt?
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:42 PM   #4656
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Default RRR

Nimo and Jeff(Lin),

You guys raced with FW05's and now have converted to RRR. Last weekend, we had the Mugen Seiki Asian Cup in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 2 RRR qualified top 7 with 1 Serpent (all 3 local drivers), the other 4 were Mugen and the very top drivers (Tanaka). I finished 13 position (FW05R).

My point is, I noticed the RRR were dialled in the corners and it was just magical to watch them go into a turn (I was 1 of the marshall during the top driver's heat). But at the same note the Mugen cars were also equally as good going into the corners (at the hands of the japanese drivers, not the local drivers )

I know you guys have been asked many times, but I would appreciate your comments on: 1) is setting up the car easier than FW05R 2) I have always been driving shaft cars (NTC3 then now FW05R), changing to a belt car is like yuks! how did you find the change over?

Handling wise I know the RRR can go into a corner with much faster speed than the Fw05R and it does not push out as much but rather turn into the corner.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:17 PM   #4657
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Hi there,

I find the RRR to be easier to set up. Frankly, it's easy to set up the RRR to handle like the FW05R, just stand the shocks up and they would feel similar. Of course, the RRR cannot roll around the corner like the shaft car can but like you said, it can get in and out much faster.

I have both cars and I find myself driving the RRR much more often. It's just less sensitive to traction changes and faster for me 80% of the time. If I have to choose between the two I will go with the RRR. I know I will miss the FW sometimes especially when traction is high but when traction is low the FW is just not competitive (or I couldn't get it to work right).

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:59 PM   #4658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Hi there,

I find the RRR to be easier to set up. Frankly, it's easy to set up the RRR to handle like the FW05R, just stand the shocks up and they would feel similar. Of course, the RRR cannot roll around the corner like the shaft car can but like you said, it can get in and out much faster.

I have both cars and I find myself driving the RRR much more often. It's just less sensitive to traction changes and faster for me 80% of the time. If I have to choose between the two I will go with the RRR. I know I will miss the FW sometimes especially when traction is high but when traction is low the FW is just not competitive (or I couldn't get it to work right).

Hope this helps.
Thanks Jefferylin. Same reply I read on most of the threads. But coming froma FW05R owner makes the difference. It is the speed of getting in and out of the corners that counts.

One more question. Kyosho manual do not state shimming behind the centax inner bearing. Do you put shim behind the bearing (inner) so that the centax is free to spin and not sticking to the clutch?
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:34 PM   #4659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cow buster
Thanks Jefferylin. Same reply I read on most of the threads. But coming froma FW05R owner makes the difference. It is the speed of getting in and out of the corners that counts.

One more question. Kyosho manual do not state shimming behind the centax inner bearing. Do you put shim behind the bearing (inner) so that the centax is free to spin and not sticking to the clutch?
Well, I never did because the manual did not, and it worked fine. But everyone I know insists that is necessary and it seems to make sense so now I do. It still works fine. Go figure.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:47 PM   #4660
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Default 3r knuckles

hey, cow buster the 3r knuckle gives alot of steering.Try dialing out some of your steering,or check your droop settings in the frt,an rear try 0 frt,3rear .Hear in Fla. We use vht,or grape soda,so traction is not a problem at all.You want to here something funny at the Winternat i used Josh,s set that he ran on the fwo5rr,the car was glued to the track on 37shore tires.The serpent,mugens,an Grinders 3r where running 40,42 an some 45 shore so not to traction roll.I ran 37 shore all day.












i
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:47 PM   #4661
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Has anyone tried running the front with overdrive? ie; front bevel 40T and rear 39T??

Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:56 PM   #4662
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Default help need parts

hey guys! i need a rear diff case the input shaft seized a bearing and it melted the case. help plz. the diff housing and gears are fine i just need a rear case. part # vso25 rear bulk set. tried the online shops and nobodys got one except rc union and that takes 2 weeks to get. i need one now! if anybodys got one let me know by email. and i check as soon as i get home from work and i am on most of the evening. thanks guys! despretly seeking parts. doug
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:59 PM   #4663
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rc.hackmaster dump the car and get a real one. Just kidding guys we know each other.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:01 PM   #4664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cow buster
2) I have always been driving shaft cars (NTC3 then now FW05R), changing to a belt car is like yuks! how did you find the change over?
The FORCE is strong with this one...
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Old 05-24-2005, 03:19 AM   #4665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impalabob64
The serpent,mugens,an Grinders 3r where running 40,42 an some 45 shore so not to traction roll.I ran 37 shore all day.
i
too much traction I tried all kinds of set up for with the 3r knuckles. Gave up trying, stuck to my good old FW05R. Thanks
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