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Old 09-08-2004, 06:51 AM   #2851
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
oh so when driving it actually acts differently compared to having the car on a setup jig and board, and centers the steering the same everytime? i get it
Correct. When the car is in motion, the rake angle (caster setting) of the front wheels causes them to self center.
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Old 09-08-2004, 09:36 AM   #2852
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I was going to try to run a Street Racing club where we just drag the cars up a straight and back like the Fast and furious film.

I was thinking that I could soop up the cars and run almost anything.

Which got me thinking... Is there room to fit 2 engines in the FW-05? I Havent checked yet but starting with the standard chasis i'm sure i can fit another engine on the left engaging on the standard drive train.

Fitting the radio gear and servos might be a bit of a problem but i cant see any show stoppers. The top plate will have to be made from scratch

Imagine it.. A lola shell with 2 puple headed NSR's sticking out and 2 x 7mm pipes, one on each side!!

LOL.... I'll check when I get home
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Old 09-08-2004, 10:11 AM   #2853
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I had looked at putting the motor on the other side with the VSW001 chassis as it already has identical flywheel holes on both sides, you could use that chassis to fit two motors, you only need to make the motor mount holes.
Also the Kfactory centre gearbox unit looks to be more open on both sides to allow access to the gears.
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Old 09-08-2004, 10:59 AM   #2854
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NiMo, I am about to run the Kyosho Cup in Taiwan. One of the class I will be running requires rubber tires. I've never ran rubber on my nitro car before although that's what I use for electrics. I know you've been running rubber for awhile and any help from you (or anyone else) will be much appreciated.

So my questions are:

1. What tire works best for temperature between 30-35C with medium to good traction surface? For electric I use CS-27 or Sorex 36 with medium inserts (HPI green). Would that also work for nitro?

2. How long would a set of tires be good for? Should I use new tires for each qualifying round and the main? The main is 30 minutes--I don't suppose I need to change tires?

3. Anything to look out for regarding setup? Will my foam setup work? If not, what should I be doing different?

Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2004, 11:37 AM   #2855
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Jeffrey - I don't know about Taiwan but around here, Sorex 36s would be the only tire you'd need for that track temp. HPI Greens or Reds for inserts. If you need more traction, go with a thinner profile insert...like Sorex Type B (thin) or even Type C (super thin). More air gap between insert and tire, more traction, but the tire will wear faster. That's just been my experience.
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:04 PM   #2856
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I have recently done a post on the FW05S section with my rubber set up.
I have found using an insert that fills the tyre is better as ones with air gaps tend to overheat quicker.
I use Echo soft inserts, 4432s up front, 4430s at rear.
Sorex 36's work well on warm tracks (which we don't get that often), but are you allowed to use them? The UK racers always had to run on Kyosho own tyres.
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:12 PM   #2857
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Quote:
Originally posted by NiMo
I have recently done a post on the FW05S section with my rubber set up.
I have found using an insert that fills the tyre is better as ones with air gaps tend to overheat quicker.
I use Echo soft inserts, 4432s up front, 4430s at rear.
Sorex 36's work well on warm tracks (which we don't get that often), but are you allowed to use them? The UK racers always had to run on Kyosho own tyres.
You might be right with the Kyosho tires. If that is the case, that's one less thing to worry about. Other than duplicating your setup, what do you think is the differece between running foam and rubber and what changes do you make to compensate for it? Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:24 PM   #2858
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Foam requires more rear toe-in and camber, also the rear upper link holes changed so it gives less camber change with Rubber.
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Old 09-08-2004, 11:18 PM   #2859
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NEWS!

Kyosho has updated the front shock tower mount. It is now layed down like the Kawahara type.

Sign up to www.rc-racing.com and check it out under conference "on-road racing" item #97 post #111.

Here are pics, I hope I can post them here with out problems. These great photos were taken by the one and only Mike Meyers.

Josh Cyrul's car...

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Old 09-08-2004, 11:20 PM   #2860
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These are from the US Nationals last week...
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Old 09-08-2004, 11:27 PM   #2861
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Notice also the front and rear hubs from the V-One-RRR. Other mentionables are the new RD pipe and funky rear camber links.
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Old 09-08-2004, 11:30 PM   #2862
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Hey Peter, check out that brake holder too!
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Old 09-08-2004, 11:50 PM   #2863
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Default 37t gear

Hey everyone...
I ordered the 37t gear (1) and the dude I ordered it from says i need it for both front and rear...
Since i am the FNG, do I need two? Or is the one i ordered enough.
I ordered 1 of these:

http://rc-union.com/product_info.php...oducts_id=1359

So the question is do I need two??

Thanks guys!

JB
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Old 09-08-2004, 11:55 PM   #2864
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Default Re: 37t gear

Quote:
Originally posted by jbrosche
Hey everyone...
I ordered the 37t gear (1) and the dude I ordered it from says i need it for both front and rear...
Since i am the FNG, do I need two? Or is the one i ordered enough.
I ordered 1 of these:

http://rc-union.com/product_info.php...oducts_id=1359

So the question is do I need two??

Thanks guys!

JB
FNG? I don't know what that stands for.

In any case, you do need 2 for front and rear.
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:02 AM   #2865
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Default FNG

Its a term I learned when i started an new job++++++
FNG= F---ing New Guy...
Its the person who annoys all the old timers with so many questions about little minuet details....

Either way thanks for setting me straight!
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