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Old 07-11-2004, 10:13 PM   #2116
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
I had a great day of testing yesterday. And finally have the car handling almost perfectly! I have gone from fighting the massive understeer to a slight oversteer (which for me is much more drivable and faster). Bad news on my idm though my pit guy made a jerky hsn adjustment and skyrocketed the engine temps and the plug exploded before i got back to the pits....it fowled my brand new engine..... It as at my friends shop getting the debris polished out but damn it was fast while it lasted..... he says it will be 100% ok but im still pissed. Luckily i had my os tr t polished, ported and balanced, and it was ready to back me up and ill be damned if it isnt alsmost as fast.

thanks to everyone that helped me with the setup!
good job
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Old 07-12-2004, 02:10 AM   #2117
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
I had a great day of testing yesterday. And finally have the car handling almost perfectly! I have gone from fighting the massive understeer to a slight oversteer (which for me is much more drivable and faster). Bad news on my idm though my pit guy made a jerky hsn adjustment and skyrocketed the engine temps and the plug exploded before i got back to the pits....it fowled my brand new engine..... It as at my friends shop getting the debris polished out but damn it was fast while it lasted..... he says it will be 100% ok but im still pissed. Luckily i had my os tr t polished, ported and balanced, and it was ready to back me up and ill be damned if it isnt alsmost as fast.

thanks to everyone that helped me with the setup!
The motor could be alright but mine are usually stuffed after eating a plug, they run O.K. but just don't have it anymore.
Have you tried the Zac tuned O.S.?
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Old 07-12-2004, 06:02 PM   #2118
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if thats the case about the engine eating the plug then im even more upset grrrrr. just finished breakin, first real race trail oh well. I have had other motors pack in but never that fast so im hoping it will be ok.... I havent tried the zac but as I said my friend has a motor shop and balanced ported and polished my os tr t so i wouldnt be surprized if it performs very similarly to the ZAC. Lets just say that tr doesnt give the rossi and jp engines too much down the straight. I can deal with them now and my car is faster through the infield so no worries.
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Old 07-12-2004, 06:18 PM   #2119
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
if thats the case about the engine eating the plug then im even more upset grrrrr. just finished breakin, first real race trail oh well. I have had other motors pack in but never that fast so im hoping it will be ok.... I havent tried the zac but as I said my friend has a motor shop and balanced ported and polished my os tr t so i wouldnt be surprized if it performs very similarly to the ZAC. Lets just say that tr doesnt give the rossi and jp engines too much down the straight. I can deal with them now and my car is faster through the infield so no worries.
Hey rcosmax, what did you end up doing to your FW05R to cure the push?
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:15 PM   #2120
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hi jefferylin: I did a ton of stuff and ill try and list it in order of what i did.

1) I swapped the springs around so that they were gold longs on rear and black longs in front
2) I flattened the front sway bar
3) 1 mm front droop 4 mm rear droop
4) Stood the shocks up but it didnt make it better and laid them down and that helped more.
5) went to 10k rear diff oil.
6) set rear toe to 1.5 degrees
7) rear camber 2.5 L/R
6) changed to 63 rear 37 and 60 front 37 shores/tire size. I also found that the car became much more responsive as the tires wore a bit smaller so with rear under 61 and front under 59 it was at its best.
7) adjusted rear ride height to 5 mm with above tire sizes, front 3.5 mm
8) used slight neutral brake drag.
9) changed to silver soft long springs front.

With each change the car became more responsive and in the end has become very lively. I am going to reset rear camber and toe a bit higher to settle it down a tiny bit aswell as a touch less brake drag, but it is very nice to know that I have been able to go a bit to far and settling the rear down will be easy to do now.

Unfortunately i was bitten by a rooky who had decided to stand in the pit lane and lean out onto the track and fix his car as it sat in the fastest front straight groove. It is the one blind part on the track as it is directly below the drivers stand and I smoked him full throtle to see a shower of parts emerge from the other side...... . The fw-05 is a warrior though! As i got to my apparantly totalled car I realised that the only damage was a steering rod popped off and a bent dog bone. . His damage was a completely torn to shreds entire rear end. So he learned his leason and my car emerged. I am always amazed at how this carcan take bumps and (in this case full speed into a still car) crashes and not tweak the settings. I love it!
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:52 PM   #2121
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
3) 1 mm front droop 4 mm rear droop
5) went to 10k rear diff oil.
6) set rear toe to 1.5 degrees
7) rear camber 2.5 L/R
What were your original settings that you changed to the above?
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:54 PM   #2122
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rcosmax, thanks for the detailed reply. My current setup is very similar to yours and I am still looking for a little more steering. One thing that yu should consider is running even more camber in the rear. If you are running the stock camber link setting, you will see that the camber change is quite drastic under compression. I run in a midium-large track and anything less than 3.5 degrees will cause the tire to wear into a reverse cone.
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Old 07-12-2004, 11:44 PM   #2123
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yeah i noticed that jeffery. My inside tire( in relation to track direction is a slight proper cone while the outside/left tire has a slight inverted cone. Like i said i was happy to get it to break the rear end so that (camber) will be getting reset to 3.5 this weekend.

Initial D I had changed the toe from over 2 degrees to the now 1.5, the rear camber was previously 3.5, and the rear diff oil was 20k. so combined those changes drastically loosened the rear. I previously had 3mm of front droop and 3 rear. And actually now as i recheck the rear it is 4.5mm of rear droop.

As it is I like the 10k much better.
the camber will reset to get the proper cone
the rear toe will be tweaked a little more.

The positive changes to the front end effected the handling more than the negative changes to the rear so thats how im able to reset the rear for more bite now that the front end has woken up a bit.

Initially my setup was very poor and done only with a ruler and a slide camber guage. My friend then set it up in his setup bench with much more camber and toe front and rear than i initially had. So it is kind of hard to say exactly what some of the settings were before adjustments.
I hope that makes some sense. As I race with japanese drivers and my terminology is very muddled, because i speak in half English half Japanese at the track.

Last edited by rcosmax; 07-12-2004 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:01 AM   #2124
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So de su ga..wa ka da.

What is your front toe setting now?
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:05 AM   #2125
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Now its .5 degrees. I think that was one of the big problems to beggin with.

I am in a weird situation have began rc nitro after coming to japan and speaking little japanese being taught in a language i dont fully understand. It involves lots of mistakes but im getting there now thanks to you guys!
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:13 AM   #2126
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
Now its .5 degrees. I think that was one of the big problems to beggin with.

I am in a weird situation have began rc nitro after coming to japan and speaking little japanese being taught in a language i dont fully understand. It involves lots of mistakes but im getting there now thanks to you guys!
.5 degrees toe-in or toe-out? and what was it before?
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:54 AM   #2127
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It is now .5 degrees toe out. sorry i didnt say because i was unaware that people use toe in on the front. It was 1.5 toe out before.
Sorry guys im really tired I just reread what I posted and it makes no sense sorry about that.
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:29 AM   #2128
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The Muben rear hubs fixes the problem of the coning of the tyres. You can run less camber. (see earlier pics)

If you dont run a rear roll bar you will get slightly uneven wear. I just swap the left for the right after every heat!

Are you running the same bevel gears front and rear? try fitting the centre conversion that gives you 45/17 in the front and 46/17 in the rear. If you dont have the conversion fit 39/13 front and 40/13 rear.

This helped a lot on my car

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Old 07-13-2004, 02:14 AM   #2129
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Thanks ziggy. The front overdrive is the next thing i will try. Currently i am using the hardened 39th gears front and rear, but i have an extra 40th hardened gear I will try on the rear diff this weekend. I have been eyeing that mugen conversion but held off when i had heard kyosho was testing new rear hubs. Any word on this or was it just a rumour?
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Old 07-13-2004, 02:44 AM   #2130
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The new arms and hubs will be available when the V-One RRR is realeased. Kyosho drivers are testing the parts right now on thier FW-O5R. I took out my car last Thursday and some idiot decided to switch to my channel without warning which ultimately sent my car straight into the wall at the end of a 160ft straight. My car is demolished now including my Rex ReR 12. I've been too despondent to actually inspect and total up the cost of damage but just from looking at it, it's already +$500.

What really gets me over the top is that this idiot tried to say it wasn't his fault. This stuff is happening more and more often at the track.
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