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Old 05-28-2004, 05:37 AM   #1546
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Lose the front swaybar.
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Old 05-28-2004, 05:41 AM   #1547
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Quote:
Originally posted by KMac
Lose the front swaybar.
Will it cure on power oversteer?
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:26 AM   #1548
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Could anyone tell me the exact $$ needed to spend for upgrade to make this car work. I'm running the EVO, and have been thinking of getting the FW, but I hear that the start up is expensive because of all the hop-ups needed.
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:27 AM   #1549
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Quote:
Originally posted by BoCal
Could anyone tell me the exact $$ needed to spend for upgrade to make this car work. I'm running the EVO, and have been thinking of getting the FW, but I hear that the start up is expensive because of all the hop-ups needed.
i havent needed any hop ups yet but maybe i will after the region4 ROAR race.
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:32 AM   #1550
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Default Set up

Anybody has got a good set up for small tight technical track with lots of 180 turn (parking lot)? I m going to race my FW on a parking lot race next week. For the past 3 days i ve been practicing at the track and couldn't dial in the car perfectly. The rear end keep on loosing causing it to spin whenever i exit the tight 180 turn on power. I m using diff at both end with 50k frt and 30k rear. Will mugen rear upright conversion make the rear more planted?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-28-2004, 07:58 AM   #1551
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Default Re: Set up

Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
Anybody has got a good set up for small tight technical track with lots of 180 turn (parking lot)? I m going to race my FW on a parking lot race next week. For the past 3 days i ve been practicing at the track and couldn't dial in the car perfectly. The rear end keep on loosing causing it to spin whenever i exit the tight 180 turn on power. I m using diff at both end with 50k frt and 30k rear. Will mugen rear upright conversion make the rear more planted?

Thanks in advance.
Back
3 deg camber
3 deg toe in
Black rear roll bar
Gold Springs with 35 wt oil
Loads of droop!
Back diff with heavy oil
30mm foams 37shore

Front
1 deg camber
0 deg toe in
front roll bar flat
black spring with 35 wt oil
2 mm droop
One way diff
30mm foams 37shore

Also for tight track use drag brake. Set up like this...

Set the controller up so that the throttle trim is all the way down and the brake is off. When you increase the trim it should slowly apply the brake. Make a few runs and adjust the trim to give you slight brake when off throttle.

The car should turn in really tight but not spin.

Lossen the clutch as well to give you a smoother take off
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:39 AM   #1552
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Default Re: Re: Set up

I slightly disagree w/ the use of front one-way and thicker oil at rear-diff,... It'll make the car even more twitchy to handle (at least I experienced it first hand), and the fact that you only have rear brakes will increasy the possibility of oversteer

I'd suggest a solid front-axle or 100,000 wt diff-oil front, and stick with 30,000 or lower for rear-diff. If the rear of the car car bites too much, and get understeer,.. that's a good sign,... work your way stiffening the rear springs to get rid the understeer up to your liking (for very tight tracks, most ppl tend to love a slight understeer over here, and FW05R is proven to be good at it )

regarding the tyres, try to use hardest combo first (42 - 42) parking-lot tracks tend to chew softer tyres easier. As a guideline,... when using harder shores, soften the suspension setup, with lower shores, stiffen it. The extra run-time and better chunk resistance (with correct wheel alignment) of the harder shores will worth it for longer races.

my current setup for a super tight and bumpy track (with some twin 180 deg S turns) :

Front:

shocks: outer mounts
stock black spring and 40wt oil
3mm droop, flat swaybar
modified ackermann angle (by mounting the stock steering plate under the posts,.. standard is over the mounting-posts)

alignment: 2 deg left camber, 1 deg right camber, 0 toe
caster clips full front (normally can only fit 2
diff: solid (locked)



Rear:

shocks: mid-upper-mount, upper-lower mount, low-bracket, long shock mounting (that black cup-end)
3mm droop, 4-5mm swaybar mounting-indentation
softer spring (I use Kawada medium long-spring)
40 wt oil

alignment : 4 degs left camber, 2 degs right camber
2 degs toe-in

diff: 30,000



gearing : 22-27 pinions , 45-50 spurs,.. everything else stock

tyres : GQ 42 shores all-round not trued for maximum run-time (and wallet prevention )

well, this is my setup,... I have the similar setting on clutch (loosened), but I don't use the drag-brake method since it will prevent my car to roll freely,.. besides, I like to keep some throttle applied mid-turn to keep the traction (and smoother out-of-turn coz there won't be a sudden yank to the outside wheels that will give you oversteer on a not-so-grippy parking lot surface)

I hope these infos helped

FYI : the track is clockwise with 2 right-hand mid-speed sweeper, so this is why I have staggered camber settings
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Old 05-28-2004, 09:06 AM   #1553
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I havent tried the solid front axle yet. Whats the comparison to the front one way? A lot of guys say thats it improves the on power steering

Cheers
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Old 05-28-2004, 09:16 AM   #1554
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Interesting comment on the staggered camber settings.
I have a meeting this weekend on a track with a 190 degree banked curve (14 degree angle) which is taken almost flat at around 55-60mph (backing of a fraction to get hooked up then back on full power).
The problem I've had in the past (and so has others) is splitting the tyre walls as the tyre moves across the wheel (rubber tyres). I am using a much firmer insert this time to prevent tyre movement but I think I might try this staggered camber set up.

All I need to do now is to rebuild the back end after yesterdays incident :
(a young kid turned on on the same frequency as another guy already running, his out of control car cross the track barrier right in to my line, I swerved but he caught my rear end with enough force to take the corner and rear diff right out of the car, that's right, the rear diff casing shattered).
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Old 05-28-2004, 10:26 AM   #1555
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Default Re: Set up

Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
Anybody has got a good set up for small tight technical track with lots of 180 turn (parking lot)? I m going to race my FW on a parking lot race next week. For the past 3 days i ve been practicing at the track and couldn't dial in the car perfectly. The rear end keep on loosing causing it to spin whenever i exit the tight 180 turn on power. I m using diff at both end with 50k frt and 30k rear. Will mugen rear upright conversion make the rear more planted?
If I were you,I will try this...
lower the rear rolling center
softer the rear anti-roll bar
lean the rear shock
If you still use stock gear,maybe the 1st gear has too much torque and your track has much sand
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:16 PM   #1556
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Default Kawahara

Can Please someone here guide me where the 17/45 Crown Gear of the Kawahara Center Conversion go, it is in the Front or the Rear Diff?

And how is it, performance wise with that gearing listed on the info sheet?

Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:44 PM   #1557
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Default Re: Re: Set up

Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
If I were you,I will try this...
lower the rear rolling center
softer the rear anti-roll bar
lean the rear shock
If you still use stock gear,maybe the 1st gear has too much torque and your track has much sand
can you change the front roll center?
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:49 PM   #1558
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Got it..... Thanks Ziggy!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
I think most people are having gearing problems but they can be easily overcome. There are a number of solutions

Change the 46t Spur to 45T = FDR from 5.24 to 5.13
Change the 39T ring gear to 40T = FDR from 5.13 to 5.00
Change the 27T Pinion to MTX-3 28 Pinion = FDR from 5.00 to 4.82
Change the 27T Pinion to MTX-3 28 Pinion = FDR from 4.82 to 4.66

And if thats not enough get the Kawahara Centre conversion which changes the ring gears
Front = 45 and 17
Back 46 and 17

FDR from 4.66 to 4.20 (way too big)

Best option is to use centre conversion with 27 pinion = FDR 4.51

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Old 05-28-2004, 08:51 PM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
I havent tried the solid front axle yet. Whats the comparison to the front one way? A lot of guys say thats it improves the on power steering

Cheers
same on-power characteristics w/ one-way,.. the up-side is, you'll have a strong front brake (one-way has no front-brake)
down-side : chews the ring and crown gears even faster
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:56 PM   #1560
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Quote:
Originally posted by orangbaligila
same on-power characteristics w/ one-way,.. the up-side is, you'll have a strong front brake (one-way has no front-brake)
down-side : chews the ring and crown gears even faster
yes it does , it use to chew up the front belt on my serpent 705 all the time
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