R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-17-2009, 03:41 PM   #11926
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: indpls,ind
Posts: 1,417
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry™ View Post
And I have a car that has a better F/R weight bias and has more steering....Not to mention more intitial steering into a corner....
............Well Good for you Harry!!! Not sure if your car has improved F/R weight bias. Set your car up to suit your driving style. We have different driving styles, I rather have the spool to get the punch out of the corners .

Last edited by nitrohead5300; 04-17-2009 at 03:55 PM.
nitrohead5300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 04:13 PM   #11927
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrohead5300 View Post
............Well Good for you Harry!!! Not sure if your car has improved F/R weight bias. Set your car up to suit your driving style. We have different driving styles, I rather have the spool to get the punch out of the corners .


I know that, I'm only funnin' with ya.....
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 04:18 PM   #11928
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: indpls,ind
Posts: 1,417
Default

You a badddddd boy Harry!!
nitrohead5300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 04:24 PM   #11929
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrohead5300 View Post
You a badddddd boy Harry!!


And my car is pretty....Don't forget that!!...


You're going to the Challenges, right?..
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 05:47 PM   #11930
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: indpls,ind
Posts: 1,417
Default

but my car is fast & furious !!
nitrohead5300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 06:00 PM   #11931
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrohead5300 View Post
but my car is fast & furious !!

It is that......
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 11:08 PM   #11932
Tech Rookie
 
trippcsi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Default

So Harry, I see your also running the Lightwieght 2 speed.. I have one of each. Is there much differance in performance gain?
trippcsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2009, 09:52 AM   #11933
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trippcsi View Post
So Harry, I see your also running the Lightwieght 2 speed.. I have one of each. Is there much differance in performance gain?

I noticed a big difference with the LW trans...


and, the ratio's are better....
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 07:42 AM   #11934
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 240
Default

hey guys,

i am finally getting back into my R40, and got a whole new R40 thats been in its box for a while and dont remeber how to exactly tune the clutch... any help would be great..

thanks guys
__________________
Hpi R40 Hara w/ .12JLR
Hpi R40-rolling frame
Tamyia F103 LM -Ole school
soon a 1/8th on road
Duratrax Maximum ST Pro
Hpimichael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 11:22 PM   #11935
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 46
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry™ View Post
Did you see the pic of my car on the scale?...that had a gear diff...




And it's pretty too....









You gotta work on that gear mesh fastharry!
thewood1987 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 06:15 AM   #11936
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thewood1987 View Post
You gotta work on that gear mesh fastharry!



I have it set that way for sonic dragging.....
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 06:36 AM   #11937
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 46
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry™ View Post
I have it set that way for sonic dragging.....
Thats cutting edge stuff right there! Its the same principle as the partially submerged propellers on offshore racing boats. Less friction = less drag. You should consider blurring these high tec areas of your photos as to keep all of us from catching on to your high speed super setup tricks.
Its too late now I have the blueprints to your setup and so does everyone else. Keep that in mind
thewood1987 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 10:42 AM   #11938
Tech Master
 
Rapid Roy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: L.A. (Rowland Hts)
Posts: 1,531
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hpimichael View Post
hey guys,

i am finally getting back into my R40, and got a whole new R40 thats been in its box for a while and dont remeber how to exactly tune the clutch... any help would be great..

thanks guys
Here's what I cut out of this thread long ago and saved on my computer.

Enjoy.

I have found several things with the clutch.

1. You most likely need to put shims between the inside bearing and the sg nut to keep the bell from rubbing the shoe.

2.Clearance to the chassis cutout for the flywheel, on some of my engines I had to remove the big washer behind the collet other wise the outside of the bell will hit the chassis= slip
This can also happen if the motor is aligned too far to the gear side. I think this has been my problem all along, but in the process I learned the fine points of setting up a Centax.

3. The red clutch shoe as with most cars is better than the slip prone black stuff

If assembled right the clutch is supposed to be great; it's nearly identical to the Mugen's



I was starting to build the clutch last night....and I have to agree, the stock setting of the clutch (per manuel) is not even close to the GOOD setting of the centax..........

(1) I agree with OB42TC3's #1 idea....I ended up put a 0.1mm shim (from Serpent or NTC3 package) behind the SG nut and in front of the first bearing of the clutch housing in order to spin the house freely without rubbing the shoe.

(2) The 0.8mm shims behind the collet need to be increase to close to 1mm (I ended up adding 2 more 0.1mm from Serpent) in order for me to get to 0.3mm gap different....no matter how much or less shims I did in front of the threst bearing, it won't give me the clearence that I like....

Overall....that is the setting that I have on my RS 12 T5 S1 engine...does not necessary work for other engines, but the concept is like that.....at least 3 areas need to add or remove shims instead of only 1 (before the threst bearing like HPI said)

I still think the RED shoes is the one to use....the HPI one is almost like a solid black plasic block....



OB42TC3 already said it....it is the one from DELTA, you can see that on ebay, they are like $12 each. (keyword: Clutch shoe)...but I am sure the MUGEN one are as good...anything but the stock HPI black one....(if you have the chance to get a better shoe)...




the Mugen ones. They basically are made from the same material however, Rulon. The R40 one is absolutely ballistic it makes the car have incredible punch. You can email order them from Delta.

The Grey ones work nicely, but have less punch than the Red shoes, but to get it to slide on the pins properly you will need to ream the holes a bit. I posted a picture of this a few months ago.

If you are running your car at Brendale you should definately get the red ones, the cost me around AUD$15 from Delta. Most other local tracks will be fine with the grey shoes.




I posted this a while ago. Here is my latest clutch setup that has so much punch the car actually was jumping slightly on a low bite track:

Delta Red shoes
Kyosho Bronze colour spring - FW16
A heap of Mugen shims (or any other shims will work)

1. Assemble the clutch without the unner bearing. Pull the clutch housing away from the shoe. Measure the gap between the housing and the shoe. This is the clutch gap. You want it between 0.4-0.6mm in my setup.

2. Put the inner bearing back in place. Add shims between this bearing and the clutch nut until there is almost no float. 0.1mm or less.

3. Set the adjuster nut to 1.4mm.

This setup gives awesome clutch response, and also is far easier on the clutch bearings. I have posted previously that I had bearing failures, I have had no failures since I have been using this setup.





AMG, Thanks for the information, and that is exactly what I want to know...I was playing with SHIMS with the R40 centax, as much as they did a good car like R40, their centax is still not as good as a centax compare to Mugen or Serpent.

I have replaced most of the R40 centax parts with new one (new OEM parts)........I still feel the clutch housing is a little warble here and there..........my 4 years old Serpent centax does not have that kind of a feeling, still spin freely and smoothly.

But anyhow............I still want to work on the R40 centax cause that will fit the R40 the best (I hope), but I want to know, should I stick with the 0.8mm stock black shim behind the collet and add/remove shims in front..?

The old way of building centax is add/remove shim before collet, the newer way of setting centax is FIX shim at the collet and add/remove shim before clutch bearing and in front of the thrust bearing....

And last night, I have to do BOTH........collet shim ended up to 1mm and add a 0.4mm before bearing and 0.8mm before thrust bearing............STILL.........ended up 0.45mm gap different, which I don't really satisfried with, I want to shorted it to 0.25mm to 0.35mm range.....which is very easy to set on all of my Serpent Centax.

This is by far the longest time I have to spend on doing a Centax system.




quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Also, do you guys know that the thrust bearing from the R40 centax, both O-RING are having different inner diameter just like Serpent or Mugen Thrust bearing....? And the larger diameter one are suppose to go in first (toward flywheel) and the smaller diameter one are facing outside.


Thrust bearings ALWAYS have one ring with bigger inner diameter than the other and you always need to put the bigger inner diameter first towards the clutch shoes and then the smaller one further out.

quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I didn't see HPI manual mentioned that, don't know that matters or not, but on Serpent and Mugen's manuel, they both mentioned it and it must go in to the right direction.


If you did not happen to install the thrust bearing right, then HPI just gets richer selling blown out thrust bearing replacements.




quote:
Originally posted by Proteus
It's to adjust the roll center for the front upper arms. If you noticed that your kit came with two of those. They are to control the height of the rear portion of the front upper arm. Also, the kit came with two different rubber grommetts (sp?); the piece that fits into the bottom of the shock tower which holds the front upper arm hingepin. With the two different rubber pieces....you have three different positions where you can mount your arm, stock (low), center, and high. Use the corresponding rear pices to adjust the upper hingepin to keep the hingepin parallel to the lower hingepin. Hopefully that makes sense. And there you have it. I've tried raising the roll center by adding one rear shim plus using the other rubber piece. The car felt quite responsive but had no grip. I also tried angling the upper arm as I was using kickup on the lower arm. I ended up going back to the low roll center. That seemed to give me the most traction. I guess on high bite tracks where traction rolling is a problem, using a higher roll center up front would help. AND THERE YOU HAVE IT.



Now I can finally.......

Thanks bubba!!!!
Rapid Roy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2009, 04:12 PM   #11939
Tech Adept
 
r_weezee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area Kali
Posts: 197
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default r40 for sale

I got a really nice R40 for sale on ebay right now check it out

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-R40-Novaross...3A1%7C294%3A50
Attached Thumbnails
HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-r40.jpg  
r_weezee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 09:33 PM   #11940
Tech Master
 
Ivan Dickson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cali Love USA
Posts: 1,643
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by cta4LC4PON3 View Post
I have recently come back to the rc world after alot of years away and when i was in i was only electric. I have been going to the only place that has a track and i have been watching what people are driving. I noticed alot of people are running the HPI RS4 Evo+ so i decided to buy one.

is it good or bad. i havent opened it yet and can be returned.

what can you tell me about the car itself. this place isnt for serious racing its just a place where people go to have fun and basicly show off there cars.

also what kind of tires would i need and ive seen cars fully decked out in purple upgrades and id like to get some of those also.

thanks
some on this thread can help you.
__________________
SPECIAL THANKS TO ✦ MY WIFE ✦✦ MOTIV RC ✦✦ GRAVITY RC ✦✦ JGO PAINTZ ✦✦ TQ RC RACEWAY ✦✦ TAMIYA RACEWAY ✦
Ivan Dickson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New on Nitro and this forum Emaxx rider Rookie Zone 8 02-06-2008 07:21 AM
HPI Nitro MT 2 Forum Tom P Electric Off-Road 5 07-19-2004 06:26 PM
New Nitro R/C Forum Dantherc10man Web Links 0 08-09-2003 07:39 AM
Nitro car forum Rose Money Singapore R/C Racers 47 07-04-2002 08:49 PM
Nitro Forum ART2 Singapore R/C Racers 41 05-16-2002 10:51 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:57 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net