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Old 03-30-2009, 10:45 AM   #11911
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Heavy?.... Moi?......
All cars are light without gas in the tank, Harry. Nice try, though.
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here's the real question.... where is Todd Marshall?....
Now that's the $100,000 question!
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:10 PM   #11912
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Hello,

I just recently got back into RC after a five year break. I got my first R40 back in the day when they just came out, circa early 2004, and I loved it, but on road was dieing off in the area, and when I stopped commuting to the Sacramento area I just stopped racing and eventualy sold my cars on ebay. Well I just got my hands on an R40 again! Call me nuts for not going for a Serpent720 or Mugen rig but I still thought the R40 was a hot setup but I get the feeling not many run them these days. Not a big deal to me however, I need to hone my driving skills! I see a few on here are keeping many Serpents and Mugens in check! Way to go!

Anyway I just wanted to say hello to all the other R40 racers out there, and if you are looking to sell any stuff let me know. Im on the lookout for a one way and variuos pinions, springs, tires and parts ill want on hand. Oddly with 10th scale onroad loosing popularity - it would seem, parts and tires are crazy cheap. So far I have seen plenty of large emply parking lots empty out as businesses seem to be closing recently. I just want to get back into gas sedan racing - worst case I can assemble a local club to race with. There are some tracks still running 10th scale but not like they were. I hope the class doesnt die off! How are you guys liking the R40? I have combed this thread and answered majority of my Q's, so for now, just a hello. Does anyone know if Frank McKinney is still around or with HPI? Good luck out there!

DJ
Welcome! I still run 2 R40s with lots of extra parts. Ebay is a good source. If you have the standard 2 speed, I have lots and lot of parts and gears for real cheap. Just hit me up on PM. You might want to try a solid axle in the front. It can eat up your out drives, but it works great. Don't go looking for the R40 one though. Do a search for one for the HPI Savage. You can get one for 4 or 5 dollars. Its just a solid peice of aluminum with a hole and a couple of slots in it.
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:17 PM   #11913
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Hi all... I as well just drug out my 2 R40's bought back in late 04 just before the Hara edition came out. I never was able to race them, my son and I ran them on a fairley new parking lot until the gravel started eating belts and gears. they were parked for over 3 years. We set one of the cars up with the LW 2 speed and one with the stock 2 speed and the solid rear diff. Didn't really get much testing in before we started getting damage from gravel. I don't believe the one way front diff was avail as well as the 4 bevel rear diff at the time. They have sat ever since. I have brought them back to life and plan on racing them so I need a little help:

Question for anyone who has competively raced the R40. What is the best diff and 2 speed setup for this car running foam on a purpose built track?

I will be running at the timezone track in Vancouver, Wa.

Thanks,
Tripp
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:21 PM   #11914
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All cars are light without gas in the tank, Harry. Nice try, though.
Now that's the $100,000 question!


the car had half a tank....
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:39 AM   #11915
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Hi all... I as well just drug out my 2 R40's bought back in late 04 just before the Hara edition came out. I never was able to race them, my son and I ran them on a fairley new parking lot until the gravel started eating belts and gears. they were parked for over 3 years. We set one of the cars up with the LW 2 speed and one with the stock 2 speed and the solid rear diff. Didn't really get much testing in before we started getting damage from gravel. I don't believe the one way front diff was avail as well as the 4 bevel rear diff at the time. They have sat ever since. I have brought them back to life and plan on racing them so I need a little help:

Question for anyone who has competively raced the R40. What is the best diff and 2 speed setup for this car running foam on a purpose built track?

I will be running at the timezone track in Vancouver, Wa.

Thanks,
Tripp



Hi Tripp..


I am still racing my r40.....and to be honest, I always set up my cars( from MINI z to Off road) to be stable...and drive like a Cadillac....

I think that once you start approaching the edge of the handling spectrum by either making the car push with a solid front, or over steer with a solid back, you might make it faster on some corners, but lose speed on the the others. And racing is about consistency, and finishing the race.


I also believe in learning to drive the car under any condition, so I never spend too much time on making a billion changes, because track conditions always change, even 5 laps into a race...I try to find a neutral set-up that always works, change tires for any tuning I might need, and always have a car that runs neutral.

Every HPI challenge I race at, I run basically the same set up on all the cars.... super, stock, r40, PRO 4, doesn't make a difference. And every year I nap in the pits after checking the car over, watch a little racing, and don't spend my time changing a set-up that always runs consistently, and allows me to have a car that runs plush. My super has had the same set up since 2001.....and I always finish in the A main....Last year at 301, I finished second a-main in stock, second a main in Super, and 6th A main in electric pro. All the cars were easy to drive, as they are every year. The only time I might try something radical is if the track is radical in it's surface...but that rarely happens........


This also has the benefit of the car always feeling the same. I haven't put my super on the ground since sept, and I could win with the car tomorrow. It's that easy to drive.

So the camber rods you adjusted in the morning during practice, or the front solid axle you installed to get through that ONE sweeper , is suddenly not worth crap 6 hours later when the track has become slick, all of a sudden you are spinning out when giving the throttle gas when 6 hours earlier it was pulling nicely through that same corner..


With that being said, here is how I set the cars up....

I run springs that feel nuetral. Not so soft, not too hard. Usually right in the middle of the spektrum. R40 has the standard black springs. I use 50 weight oil front and back, and the middle position on pistons (3rd hole) I run gear diffs front and back. I put 100 weight oil in the front, and run 30 weight in the rear, with the 4 gear diff. I set camber to 2 degrees in front, 3 in back. Caster is always set at a middle position...and ride height is 5 mm rear, 4 in front. Toe is at 0 in front, allowing for slop in the front end, and rear toe is set for 3 degrees to keep the car stable.


All shock angles are factory position, as they usually feel the best, and are the most consistant.


Finishing the race , and having a car that is easy to drive under any track condition, will usually result in higher overall finishes overall.

Having a car that you always have to change, results in an unfamiliar car every time you run it.....and that deosn't lend itself to always finishing the race.


I am also not a PRO driver, and never need a car that runs "on edge" every minute of every race. I find that tends to have a car that all of a sudden feels like crap, because something changed in the track surface.


I'm not saying that this will work for you, or anyone else, but just my thoughts.......


Have any questions, ask away.....
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:21 AM   #11916
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Question for anyone who has competively raced the R40. What is the best diff and 2 speed setup for this car running foam on a purpose built track?
Thanks,
Tripp
Try:

Front end;
Diff: 30,000 wt diff lube or spool
Shock oil: 55 wt.
Shock piston: #3
Shock spring: gold
shock position: middle hole on shock tower
Camber: -1 degree (adjust until tires wear flat, not "coned")
Caster: 3mm spacer in front of arm
Toe: out 0.5 degrees
Sway bar: flat
Roll center: upper position
Ride Height: 5mm
Droop: 0
-All other settings are stock.

Rear end;
Diff: 10,000 wt. diff lube
shock oil: 45 wt.
Shock piston: #3
Shock spring: Black
Shock position: Middle hole on tower
Camber: -2 degree (adjust until tires wear flat, not coned)
Camber position;
Inner: middle hole on shock tower
Outer: 1mm spacer under link
Toe: in 3 degrees
Sway bar: black / ball ends flush with tip of swaybar
Ride height: 5.5mm
Droop: 2mm
-All other settings are stock.

*Tires: start with the most popular brand and shore at your track.

*2 Speed: adjust shift-point according to the layout of the track (anywhere from 8 to 20 feet for small to average sized tracks).

Good luck out there!
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:34 PM   #11917
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Thanks for the help guys. Just to clarify, Are you guys running the stock diffs or are anyone using the 4 bevel gear diff on the rear and the one way diff on the front? I guess I just want to know if the stock diffs will work with your recomended diff lube weights or should I plan on changing the rear diff to the 4 bevel setup and install the one way front diff.
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:44 PM   #11918
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Thanks for the help guys. Just to clarify, Are you guys running the stock diffs or are anyone using the 4 bevel gear diff on the rear and the one way diff on the front? I guess I just want to know if the stock diffs will work with your recomended diff lube weights or should I plan on changing the rear diff to the 4 bevel setup and install the one way front diff.
The 4 bevel diff is supposed to help stabilize the car (if, I remember correctly). I'm, currently, running the 4 bevel gear diff in the rear. Why did you switch your focus to a one-way up front? Does your track call for a one-way?
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:14 PM   #11919
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I'm just trying to fingure out what the best setup would be. I see the one way front diff listed as an upgrade. Just curious if that is a better way to go.
I would have no idea either way. I have only driven the car a few times 4years ago. If the stock diffs perform well than i'm good with that. Hpi made the changes I'm refering to standard, in the Hara edition in 05. so I was wondering if I should upgrade the car to that level. mine was an 04 release kit.

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:10 AM   #11920
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The 4 bevel diff is supposed to help stabilize the car (if, I remember correctly). I'm, currently, running the 4 bevel gear diff in the rear. Why did you switch your focus to a one-way up front? Does your track call for a one-way?


Exactly.....just does a better job of equally powering both wheels under throttle....Think solid rear with diff action...

If I remember correctly, I did a before and after, with and without adding different viscosity's of fluid....Adding the 4 gear diff was like adding +30 in weight...only it felt more consistent, as there was less effect from thinning out....

So, like I said, I added the 4 gear diff, and once I got used to driving it, added the 30 weight fluid....




And I am running the 2 gear diff in front, with 100,000......though I think I switched to 50,000 last year.I would probably try both again..



I prefer not to run one ways....not even on my PRO4......I like consistant braking action, too much leeway for error when using a one way...
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Old 04-17-2009, 10:14 AM   #11921
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I really found im a big fan of the spool up front (locked diff if you cant find a spool). This creates a front that needs 0 maintenance. Gives you a very strong , ripping car that you can just push to the limit with no trouble and brake hard with.

Then I use the 4 gear rear diff and normally run a 20-30 weight in the rear. The biggest and easiest thing to play with the car beyond that is springs and tire shore.

Run like a 35 all around and true the front tires down 2mm and youll be good. Id leave the gearing and everything else as is. 0 toe in the front stock toe in the rear....

Run a nice body like a stratus 3.1 or a parma type-m (both super easy to drive , lots of downforce).

And just have fun.
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:34 AM   #11922
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I really found im a big fan of the spool up front (locked diff if you cant find a spool). This creates a front that needs 0 maintenance. Gives you a very strong , ripping car that you can just push to the limit with no trouble and brake hard with.

Then I use the 4 gear rear diff and normally run a 20-30 weight in the rear. The biggest and easiest thing to play with the car beyond that is springs and tire shore.

Run like a 35 all around and true the front tires down 2mm and youll be good. Id leave the gearing and everything else as is. 0 toe in the front stock toe in the rear....

Run a nice body like a stratus 3.1 or a parma type-m (both super easy to drive , lots of downforce).

And just have fun.
................I rather put a spool up there instead of the gear diff , the gear diff weights a ton !!
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:22 PM   #11923
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................I rather put a spool up there instead of the gear diff , the gear diff weights a ton !!


Did you see the pic of my car on the scale?...that had a gear diff...




And it's pretty too....









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Old 04-17-2009, 01:29 PM   #11924
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It weights less with a oneway or with a spool. I have a oneway on mine and it is alot lighter than the gear diff. I was always told that increasing the rotational mass on your drive train was bad that it slowed down your rate of acceleration, punch out of the corners. And I rather have a ugly car that handles.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:27 PM   #11925
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It weights less with a oneway or with a spool. I have a oneway on mine and it is alot lighter than the gear diff. I was always told that increasing the rotational mass on your drive train was bad that it slowed down your rate of acceleration, punch out of the corners. And I rather have a ugly car that handles.


And I have a car that has a better F/R weight bias and has more steering....Not to mention more intitial steering into a corner....
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