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Old 06-13-2007, 03:32 PM   #11551
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Hi when you compare the R40 with Team magic or Xray NT1, is it still competitive with these cars?

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Old 06-13-2007, 04:10 PM   #11552
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So what's hot for weight saving? Looking at Harry's car (no pics of anyone elses around) he just looks to have different screws? tho earlier in the thread there's a pic of his car with alloy uprights, brake brace and lever, bu then AI says to stay with plastic cos it's lighter... so does that mean i just cut off everything that isnt functional? I actually already started this by snapping off the edge of the rear suspension mount in a crash the other day

the screws are titanium....my car has been built and rebuilt a few times in 4 years...all different variations.. WITH all the metal(and that includes the GPM alum knuckles),a full set of uncut tires,transponder,and the SHARK pipe(which is heavy)..the cars weighs 1720 grams without the body....around 1810 with.....


I never shaved weight,its all stock hara options,leightweight servos,and spektrum reciever......the r40 is as light as anything else..or close to it.,...
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Old 06-13-2007, 04:22 PM   #11553
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Hi when you compare the R40 with Team magic or Xray NT1, is it still competitive with these cars?

Joe F

I don't know against the NT1....but I do know,against RRR kyoshos,tc 3 nitro's,and 720 serpents,the car will hold its own on any parking lot treated or untreated surface....

I know this,because I have raced those cars,under those circumstances,and beat them....
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:48 AM   #11554
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I don't know against the NT1....but I do know,against RRR kyoshos,tc 3 nitro's,and 720 serpents,the car will hold its own on any parking lot treated or untreated surface....

I know this,because I have raced those cars,under those circumstances,and beat them....
So it goes less well on treated surfaces? I'm racing a mix of both at the moment but still finding my feet on the treated purpose built track. So far I'm as quick as my mates with MTX4s who have also just started racing there, but there's a decent gap between us and the top guys who are racing a mix of MTX4s and V1RRR's.

Have you got a setup sheet harry? I recently tried my mates Associated NTC3 and was shocked at how much more nimble it is than my r40, especially it's turn in. My car tends to push into the corner then oversteers on the way out, it's still quick but if it turned like my mates car it'd be muuuch faster
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:44 PM   #11555
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thanks for the info

regards
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Old 06-14-2007, 07:26 PM   #11556
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R40 is a good car. I cant deny it after taking a step out. All cars have their pluses and minuses.

Good thing about the r40 , lots of similiar screws , easy to work with , easy to take apart and put back together , layout of things arent so crammed.

Bad about r40 , the clutch system to me was lacking , as well the flywheel pins too long , not the best instructions when it comes to setup and support...but all in all good. The hara is certainly the way to go and I only suggest that. The layout of electronics isnt so bad...but not great either. Motor removal isnt so bad either.

My mtx-4 , as lots of you hear things are tight , close , electronics layout kinda tight , motor removal pretty tight , instructions good. But Id say the mugen is a better drive and the clutch is light years away better than the r40. In fact lots of r40 drivers switch to the mtx-3 clutch and that was great but then I had to fix the engine holes to allow it to mesh right and even then didnt think it did right.

Also a lot of people run the mugen clutch pad on the r40 as well , but then again your reaming this pad out and it just doesnt seem right afterwards. Allthough does help a lot.

R40 is cheap , but the mugen is actually about the same price if not cheaper now. Mugen has better support , more driver support at the track and just seems to retain a slightly higher quality...allthough it can kinda be a hit or miss story at times. The r40 is good , they kinda think out of the box at hpi...keep it simple , yet sophisticated.

Troubles I had with the r40 was the rear camber links stripping , dog bones bending , clutch. 2speed is a dream though , shifts consistent and the spurs never seemed to need replacement. While my mugen at certain tracks you just cant seem to keep them right for more than a few minutes.

Als the r40 hara comes pretty well optioned. If I could give good advice Id say just keep the r40 hara stock and use money elsewhere. I kinda ended up becoming a hop up fiend with both my r40 and mtx-4. It really doesnt get you too far.

Another thing is the r40 tends to be a heavier car , the hara did fix that some...but still not the lightest of the group.

The mtx4-r is pretty good out of the box and lightweight but the 2speed spur gear blow out issue seems to effect a good 50% of the owners making the car almost as useless and aggrivating as the r40 clutch and so on...

nt1 could be a good choice. I wouldnt mind giving it a shot , as well the 720 is good car. Serpent and hpi offer AMAZING support. While mugen is a step down and kinda makes you jump through one too many hoops and still doesnt really come through. At least mugen usa.

nt1 , again not sure about...but its the newest car of the entire pack and xray is well known for HIGH QUALITY. I think all in all the nt1 could offer the best all around experience , but that depends on serpent or xray availability. Not so sure about either in your area....but id go with either or.

Also ive layed the smack down on many cars with the r40 , but the mugen just seemed to make me a better driver.
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:56 PM   #11557
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Troubles I had with the r40 was the rear camber links stripping
did you say you replaced the rear camber links with another brand? this has been happening on my car a bit so if there's an alternative then i'm all for it
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Old 06-14-2007, 11:41 PM   #11558
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did you say you replaced the rear camber links with another brand? this has been happening on my car a bit so if there's an alternative then i'm all for it

I used lunsford 23(?) mm rods.and pro line tmaxx ball ends....

no problems...
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:14 AM   #11559
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I used lunsford 23(?) mm rods.and pro line tmaxx ball ends....

no problems...
oooh what sway bar is that?? it looks like the one surikarn used at the worlds

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Old 06-15-2007, 07:01 AM   #11560
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oooh what sway bar is that?? it looks like the one surikarn used at the worlds



surikarn has nothing on my r40...


thats an optional HPI sway bar...japan only....
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:42 AM   #11561
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did you say you replaced the rear camber links with another brand? this has been happening on my car a bit so if there's an alternative then i'm all for it
I used slightly longer lunsford titanium turnbuckles. You can also go up to like a 4mm rod , that might also do it. I also replaced the rod end (the black plastic piece) for a brand new one and that seemed to do the trick for awhile.

I dunno why but I kept reusing the stripped one thinking it wouldnt mess up over and over....
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:14 PM   #11562
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guys i dont know if you remeber few pages b4 i posted that my 2004 R40 has a problem with stearing(when you turn full left is just turning when you turn full right it makes the tail slide all the way)
I tryed many things dint do anything..
Now i just start runing my hara R40 witch is brand new and mostly asembled by A.I. witch mean a difrent persont made the arangements(i dint change them so i can see how the car go with those setings)and the car do the same as the 2004 R40
any ideas? is just the car? you think that is maybe couse of the weight of the engine that is not realy centered?
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:33 PM   #11563
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guys i dont know if you remeber few pages b4 i posted that my 2004 R40 has a problem with stearing(when you turn full left is just turning when you turn full right it makes the tail slide all the way)
I tryed many things dint do anything..
Now i just start runing my hara R40 witch is brand new and mostly asembled by A.I. witch mean a difrent persont made the arangements(i dint change them so i can see how the car go with those setings)and the car do the same as the 2004 R40
any ideas? is just the car? you think that is maybe couse of the weight of the engine that is not realy centered?
Check your steering linkage where it attaches to the servo horm. Turn on your radio and reciever and let the servo center itself. Now look at the angle between the servo horn and the steering link. The steering linkage should be perpendicular to the servo horn.
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Old 06-15-2007, 05:16 PM   #11564
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Originally Posted by stefanos View Post
guys i dont know if you remeber few pages b4 i posted that my 2004 R40 has a problem with stearing(when you turn full left is just turning when you turn full right it makes the tail slide all the way)
I tryed many things dint do anything..
Now i just start runing my hara R40 witch is brand new and mostly asembled by A.I. witch mean a difrent persont made the arangements(i dint change them so i can see how the car go with those setings)and the car do the same as the 2004 R40
any ideas? is just the car? you think that is maybe couse of the weight of the engine that is not realy centered?
  1. who or what is AI
  2. how much is MOSTLY assembled
  3. are you using the same running gear(radio gear,engine,tires etc)
  4. none of my cars ever did that,so its not the car(design)...
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:47 PM   #11565
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thats an optional HPI sway bar...japan only....
know anywhere i can order one?

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Originally Posted by stefanos
guys i dont know if you remeber few pages b4 i posted that my 2004 R40 has a problem with stearing(when you turn full left is just turning when you turn full right it makes the tail slide all the way)
check the camber on the rear left tyre, my car did this after i stripped the ball cup and the camber rod fell out
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