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Old 04-19-2007, 06:56 PM   #11401
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Is the body painted yet , if its still clear , just place body on top of posts and mark the posts. Make sure its perfectly straight on the car beforehand and that your getting the wheel wells to match the wheels correctly.
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:49 PM   #11402
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also use a reamer not a drill
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:34 PM   #11403
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unfortunately, the body has been paint it. its my first car. is there a way to drill a perfect hole?

also. i notice that the poles at the back you can have 2 different position. which is a better position?

I have attached a photo.

Thanks!
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dsc_7735.jpg  
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:45 AM   #11404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolson
unfortunately, the body has been paint it. its my first car. is there a way to drill a perfect hole?

also. i notice that the poles at the back you can have 2 different position. which is a better position?

I have attached a photo.

Thanks!
Colour (that's 'color' for you yanks ) in the top of the posts with a marker/felt pen, use an excessive amount of ink, then position the body over the posts while trying not to touch them. Once in position press down firmly to transfer some of the ink over to the body and use a reamer to cut the holes at the positions marked. Check how your body sits to determine what posts to use, i use the closer in ones but on some bodies they may be too close to the rear windscreen which you will need to remove for cooling
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:50 AM   #11405
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Hi, the R40 that i'm going to puchase has alot of upgrades from 3 racing and other suppliers... it is not the hara but most probably this one has more than the hara edition if you do your calculation correct.... anyways parts from the country are rarely seen but online now a days you can do miracles, shipping in few days and i'm ok.... (best thing to do is to get some extra stuff just in case).

what engine do you think that will fit right and will beat all the rest?? axial and Orion are any good??

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Old 04-20-2007, 05:42 AM   #11406
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JLR Red Dot .12 , fastest / cheapest .12 ive ever seen.
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Old 04-20-2007, 05:43 AM   #11407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolson
unfortunately, the body has been paint it. its my first car. is there a way to drill a perfect hole?

also. i notice that the poles at the back you can have 2 different position. which is a better position?

I have attached a photo.

Thanks!
Chalk or grease the top of your body posts. Then you must make sure when laying down the body that it as straight as possible. Also kinda look at how it sits on the body if its over a bit normally that means it should be adjusted.
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Old 04-20-2007, 06:17 AM   #11408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simons
Hi, the R40 that i'm going to puchase has alot of upgrades from 3 racing and other suppliers... it is not the hara but most probably this one has more than the hara edition if you do your calculation correct.... anyways parts from the country are rarely seen but online now a days you can do miracles, shipping in few days and i'm ok.... (best thing to do is to get some extra stuff just in case).

what engine do you think that will fit right and will beat all the rest?? axial and Orion are any good??


hop ups aren't the only thing that made the HARA better....a redesigned chassis,top deck and gas tank(for better weight distribution and balance) did......
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:58 AM   #11409
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there is an available chassis from 3 racing that is light weight and looks good too... don't know about much of its performance on track tough....

the red dot engine is OS right??

Orion and Axial are of any good???
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:33 AM   #11410
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As a whole , no orion and axial arent good. Even if your talking about the 12RR and the Team Orion CRF. They cost a good bit more , the CRF is a tad finiky and the RR isnt that fast, its a rebadged motor and costs even more than the JLR Red dot and CRF.

Another thing is there is scarce parts on the Axial , ok support on the CRF in certain places , better support for the Red Dot and will most likely get better as the year continues and people see the power for the price on the JLR. Which is a picco motor.

I saw a stock JLR beating out a Murnan CRF. With the CRF you gotta have perfect engagement for it, from what I see. Where as the JLR is a regular stock like motor , in fact its internals look almost completely stock. So I gather tuning on the JLR is easier. It seemed to be pouring out smoke and the power just jaw dropping.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:38 AM   #11411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
As a whole , no orion and axial arent good. Even if your talking about the 12RR and the Team Orion CRF. They cost a good bit more , the CRF is a tad finiky and the RR isnt that fast, its a rebadged motor and costs even more than the JLR Red dot and CRF.

Another thing is there is scarce parts on the Axial , ok support on the CRF in certain places , better support for the Red Dot and will most likely get better as the year continues and people see the power for the price on the JLR. Which is a picco motor.

I saw a stock JLR beating out a Murnan CRF. With the CRF you gotta have perfect engagement for it, from what I see. Where as the JLR is a regular stock like motor , in fact its internals look almost completely stock. So I gather tuning on the JLR is easier. It seemed to be pouring out smoke and the power just jaw dropping.



you guys know I love RC....I love tech.......I can read through and understand anything RC....I'm not afraid to try anything.....

I downloaded the CRF instructions and started to read them......I stopped halfway through break in and tuning.........WAY,WAY too complicated..

I'll take a motor thats easy to tune,work on,and rebuild and has a UNDERSTANDABLE powerband.......(as far as clutch settings,etc)....that last nth of HP is useless if you can't finish a race.....
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:40 AM   #11412
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OK i don't understand the engine business, but aren't the picco's built by nova and almost identical to the LRP .12s? If this is the case, I'd suspect their durability is not on par with the TZ engines. The JLR may be very fast, but if you have to rebuild every 5 litres then if you're club racing or racing on a budget you're better off with a more durable donk
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:02 AM   #11413
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coolson in your pic,what is the grey thing that covers your exuste front part?
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:31 AM   #11414
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well the picco engine is fastfor sure.. there is the idm from picco which is scary too..... but as someone else said it might not be reliable so in that case OS might be another option.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:04 PM   #11415
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I run a OFNA Picco .12 with a RDLogics Turbo II pipe, a MotorSaver filter, LW shafts, and LW transmission. I paid $100 for the motor at Nitrohouse and it runs as strong as almost everything else I've seen on the track.

http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html
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