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Old 12-09-2003, 04:56 PM   #1126
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Yeah, those familiar with the Proceed can remember how that was rolled out.. Then they created updates, and now there is lots of info.. I think the R40 is the Proceeds little bro. LOL!

I actually posted a pretty detailed question to both the US and Europe HPI forums with no response as of yet, that was about a week ago I believe.. No hurry really, I am sure there aren't many R40's getting track time with the cold/wet weather. But I sure hope to have a pretty good handle on this car before I hit the track, so I can find a setup that works without too much trial and error.
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Old 12-09-2003, 05:31 PM   #1127
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For the 2 speed clutch, what should the spacing be between the shoes? I couldn't see to get a even gap throughout the whole shoe.
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Old 12-09-2003, 05:33 PM   #1128
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the gap should be adjusted before you assemble the 2 sp..
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Old 12-09-2003, 05:35 PM   #1129
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I know, I am adjusting it right now, I havn't built the 2 speed yet.
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Old 12-09-2003, 05:41 PM   #1130
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OK..so when you are screwing the 2 allens in(and its best to pre thread those holes with teh allens BEFORE you assemble the shoes onto 87085 holder)...screw them in so the shoes just start to come apart and leave a small gap..VERY small..
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Old 12-09-2003, 06:10 PM   #1131
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Another thing to notice with the 2-speed is that the aluminum 'bell' (87081) that the 2-speed shoes will spin in, may have some flashings left on it that will cause the shoes to drag once the 2-speed is assembled. The access hole(for adjusting the 2-speed) may also have a flashing or two left on it. I had this on both my ReflexNT and on my R40. Just run your finger around the inside of the 'bell' to make sure that everything is smooth. If not, a nice sharp X-acto blade is perfect for removing the flashings.
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Old 12-09-2003, 06:13 PM   #1132
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Well I'm glad you guys mentioned the thrust bearing thing. I may have hated the suppliments that Trinity stuck all over the ReflexNT manual, but I would rather they be there as suppliments rather than be totally omited.
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Old 12-09-2003, 08:31 PM   #1133
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I am also glad about what you said of that thrust bearing I would never have thought of lubing it(Its my first "pro" kit). If I use some speed bearing lube is that ok?( I used that for the bearings of my skates)
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Old 12-09-2003, 09:33 PM   #1134
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That lube might be too thin. Black grease would stay on the bearing better.
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Old 12-09-2003, 10:31 PM   #1135
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
I am also glad about what you said of that thrust bearing I would never have thought of lubing it(Its my first "pro" kit). If I use some speed bearing lube is that ok?( I used that for the bearings of my skates)
NO, I don't think that will be good enough. See, the thing is, the grease is not only there to provide lubrication. The thrust bearing rotates at very, VERY high speeds. Anything moving that fast not only needs lubrication, but.........you guessed it......cooling. The lube helps to keep the temperature down as well as providing lubrication.

That is of course if the thrust bearing in the endbell works anything like the thrust bearing in the typical ball diff.

Just for the sake of safety, I would say pick up a pack of Associated black grease to lube it with. Or ask around, most of the people who have ever run Associated or Yokomo kits have about a dozen of the packs just laying around!
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Old 12-09-2003, 10:46 PM   #1136
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Paris "Ronnie" grease works really well for thrust bearings and such. It's sticky and stays put and doesn't burn off easily.
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Old 12-10-2003, 09:58 AM   #1137
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The rotating speed of the thrust bearing is not that fast. It's only spinning until the clutch shoes engage the clutch bell. At that point the clutch bell, shoes, pinion gears and drive shaft spin as one unit.
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Old 12-10-2003, 11:14 AM   #1138
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Thanks for clearing that up.

So it appears the thrust bearing in the clutch bell doesn't require the same pertection that the thrust bearing in the diff does.

I still plan on using the AE black grease, but I wont pack it in like I do with my diffs.
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Old 12-10-2003, 05:32 PM   #1139
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
The rotating speed of the thrust bearing is not that fast. It's only spinning until the clutch shoes engage the clutch bell. At that point the clutch bell, shoes, pinion gears and drive shaft spin as one unit.
The thrust bearing should not and will not spin and rotate as fast as the engine RPM when the clutch shoes engage the clutchbell when the thrust bearing is set correct which is to put the thrust bearing washer with the larger inner diameter first into the engine.

If the smaller inner diameter of the thrust bearing washer is wrongly put in first into the engine, the thrust bearing will rotate at the same speed as the clutch permits the clutchbell to rotate and this burns out the thrust bearing fast.
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Old 12-10-2003, 05:49 PM   #1140
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I'm getting my R40 tomorrow, anything I need to know to assemble it correctly? Like any extra tips, or something?
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