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Old 04-03-2007, 08:27 PM   #11326
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I just found out about RCmart and the other HK stores, they have all the r40 alloy stuff and TZ's on the cheap, happy days
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Old 04-04-2007, 01:04 AM   #11327
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i got all my alloy part from them for the hpi r40 .rcmart 15 day shipping .
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Old 04-04-2007, 01:08 AM   #11328
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Default budedy bear

your pot may need to be clean inside ---dust has build up in side. last thing to check.
for your servo did you use the rubber grommets on the servo?
ive seen people not use them and their servo would act up.
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Old 04-04-2007, 01:21 AM   #11329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Hi guys

I had the car on the setup station tonight and i think the problem i am having with it not centering corectly might be the servo. It is fine to the right, but when turning left it does come back to centre. It is a Futaba 9550, and it seems to be making aweird noise while doing it.

Maybe this was causing me run on issues with the picco with the G4S:S

Assistence is appreciated

BB
Unhook the rod end from the servo horn and remove the servo. Now try moving the steering rod by hand to check for binding. Also plug your servo in and check the action without load. Does it still make noise? Also check to make sure that the servo horn is not touching the top deck or anything else.
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Old 04-04-2007, 02:07 AM   #11330
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or something stuck in the gears
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Old 04-04-2007, 09:33 AM   #11331
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Id stay away from the alloy parts. The r40 is somewhat heavy so try to keep it lightweight. I also used CF lower suspension mounts , CF Side brace. The only thing that needed to be aluminum was the rear lower suspension blocks. Only when you were using the CG arms since they are stronger they can rip out the plastic. The pins were good though.

Also here is a sweet tip. I found that the r40 users can use. Stick a Rubber O-ring underneath the side engine brace. 1 for each screw. You can then tighten it and adjust the rear grip levels. I found if you want more rear traction , run it loose.
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:46 PM   #11332
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fasst system ive ordered
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Old 04-04-2007, 04:52 PM   #11333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Also here is a sweet tip. I found that the r40 users can use. Stick a Rubber O-ring underneath the side engine brace. 1 for each screw. You can then tighten it and adjust the rear grip levels. I found if you want more rear traction , run it loose.
How do you find something like this out? "hrmm, i might just try an o-ring under there and see what happens" - classic! You're talking about the side brace right?
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Old 04-04-2007, 05:23 PM   #11334
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Ok well hara was known for running it loose. I just bought a kawahara part which is a top tier aftermarket company and it has o-rings for the side brace and says you can adjust grip levels.

Ive also run the side brace accidently loose and thats when it seemed I got the best drive on my car. But this is a tight parkinglot track.
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:07 PM   #11335
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sounds cool. My balance is quite good now but I could use a little more grip all round, so I got the silver front springs and if it gets taily I'll loosen it up. What about the brace on the other side, should i loosen that off to make it even?
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Old 04-04-2007, 10:25 PM   #11336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM
sounds cool. My balance is quite good now but I could use a little more grip all round, so I got the silver front springs and if it gets taily I'll loosen it up. What about the brace on the other side, should i loosen that off to make it even?
You would be better off using softer tires first. Tires will always make the largest difference.
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Old 04-04-2007, 11:34 PM   #11337
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You would be better off using softer tires first. Tires will always make the largest difference.
Yeah i mean for fine tuning. On the weekend I had 35 front 40 rear tyres, pink rear springs and the gold rear springs on the front. It was taily so I put the black springs on the front and it was good but theres no chance of traction rolling at my track so i'm going to 37 rears and silver springs at the front for more grip at both ends, then i'll give the o-ring thing a go if i need to
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:48 AM   #11338
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Default big block

O.S. 18TZ (P) Turbo w/Slide Carb is this motor to much for the r40.

crap i ordered.
PC7130 $30 Promotional Discount 1 -$30.00
TOWZ2250 TOWER SPECIAL OFFERS-C 1 $.00
LXBPG1 HPI Aluminum Spring Perch Purple (4) 1 $14.79
LXFKL0 HPI Thrust Bearing 4x9x4mm 1 $2.89
LXMUS2 HPI Cap Head Screw M2.6x12mm (12) 1 $1.90
LXFKZ8 Futaba S3151 Servo Digital Sport BB 1 $29.99
LXFBA0 HPI Exhaust Header Nitro RS4 2 1 $11.99
LXXJ36 Futaba S9550 Servo Digital Low-Profile 1 $79.99
LXHLV6 O.S. 18TZ (P) Turbo w/Slide Carb 1 $129.99
LXLZP3 Futaba 3-Channel 2.4GHz FASST Tx/Rx Module 3PK 1 $199.99
LXN050 HPI Aluminum Cone Washer 2.6/4-40 Cap 1 $3.89
LXLLM0 Hot Bodies CNC Engine Mount Lightning 1 $17.59
LXSD27 DuraTrax Manifold Spring & Clamp Axis/Nitro Quake 1 $2.69

NOW IM BROKE AGAIN
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:02 PM   #11339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
O.S. 18TZ (P) Turbo w/Slide Carb is this motor to much for the r40.

crap i ordered.
PC7130 $30 Promotional Discount 1 -$30.00
TOWZ2250 TOWER SPECIAL OFFERS-C 1 $.00
LXBPG1 HPI Aluminum Spring Perch Purple (4) 1 $14.79
LXFKL0 HPI Thrust Bearing 4x9x4mm 1 $2.89
LXMUS2 HPI Cap Head Screw M2.6x12mm (12) 1 $1.90
LXFKZ8 Futaba S3151 Servo Digital Sport BB 1 $29.99
LXFBA0 HPI Exhaust Header Nitro RS4 2 1 $11.99
LXXJ36 Futaba S9550 Servo Digital Low-Profile 1 $79.99
LXHLV6 O.S. 18TZ (P) Turbo w/Slide Carb 1 $129.99
LXLZP3 Futaba 3-Channel 2.4GHz FASST Tx/Rx Module 3PK 1 $199.99
LXN050 HPI Aluminum Cone Washer 2.6/4-40 Cap 1 $3.89
LXLLM0 Hot Bodies CNC Engine Mount Lightning 1 $17.59
LXSD27 DuraTrax Manifold Spring & Clamp Axis/Nitro Quake 1 $2.69

NOW IM BROKE AGAIN
The car can handle the power. You might have a problem if you race because the displacement is too large. It might not matter with your local club though. Best to check where you plan on racing.
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:50 PM   #11340
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The car can handle it. I guess per say it will make it down the road , but wear and such on all items such as diffs and tires , diff cups. This will wear.

I had an .18 TZ on my older r40 (beater car) just to see how it ran on the street. It was nothing but scary. The car was a dot before I could think , it was like trying to keep a ferrari f40 down a neighborhood road on ice going 150mph. It had me on my toes and probably was the closest I ever came to large wrecks.

My tires became completely chewed up like a dog knawed on them for an hour or two , within no joke the first tank.

This was at a lazy tune of 180F. I was scared to push it further.

But have fun with it , buy some large gears and I gurantee the car could push 70mph no problem. In fact if you the have .8 2speed, then Ive probably got the high gears for you. I have probably 10 pinion gears ive gotta sell , look up some gearing and let me know ill sell you some for a fraction of the cost. These are all brand new , just out of package. LMK

Good luck. Find a huge parkinglot , no joke and make sure that throttle return spring and fail safe and batteries are in perfect condition. This car runs away with that motor you might as well not even waste time walking over to it , pack up and go.
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