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Old 12-09-2003, 09:00 AM   #1111
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Thanks...

Don't worry, I've got calipers.
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:18 AM   #1112
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Sleeper
In my kit, the thrust bearing and its' two washers were tied together with a thin wire.
I guess I should have said remove the wire. The instructions doesn't say this but I'm sure you don't install the thrust bearing with the tiny wire.

As for the grease, I didn't put any in mine. The instruction doesn't mention anything about grease and the kit didn't include any, so I figured grease wasn't required. Also, since the thrust bearing isn't sealed and grease has a way of attracting dirt and grim, I figured no grease is better. I hope I'm not fixing to blow my bearing all over Gods' creation
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:18 AM   #1113
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Hi, I was wondering if you can give me some input. I'm looking at the R40 for the upcoming season and wondering how it compares to the ntc3 and mtx3 on high speed, high bite tracks. Here's a couple other questions:
1. Has anyone had issues with the belts?
2. if yes to #1 then how hard is it to change them?
3. Are there any durability issues?
4. Is it easy to work on?
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:21 AM   #1114
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Sleeper
I guess I should have said remove the wire. The instructions doesn't say this but I'm sure you don't install the thrust bearing with the tiny wire.

As for the grease, I didn't put any in mine. The instruction doesn't mention anything about grease and the kit didn't include any, so I figured grease wasn't required. Also, since the thrust bearing isn't sealed and grease has a way of attracting dirt and grim, I figured no grease is better. I hope I'm not fixing to blow my bearing all over Gods' creation
I would go back and grease that if I were you. ALL thrust bearing require grease!!! They spin at a very, very high rate, and the grease is there to keep them lubed and to keep the temp down. If the thrust bearings in ball diffs get damaged easily with grease, imagine what would happen to one in a clutch bell!
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:34 AM   #1115
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Hey guys,

I was wondering if anybody has found a better way to protect the steering servo on the R40. The stock servo protector does not hold up well when you get bumped by another car.
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:45 AM   #1116
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I'm not really concerned with the servo. Where it is on the R40, my reciever box was on my last car. So if my reciever held up to taking hits there, I figure my all metal gear servo will be safe.
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:58 AM   #1117
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Just wondering...is there a 'best tool' to use to screw on the clutch adjustment nut. I mean, its completely round except for the two notches in it. So whats the cleanest method to get it on without scaring it up or anything?
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Old 12-09-2003, 12:13 PM   #1118
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Quote:
I'm not really concerned with the servo. Where it is on the R40, my reciever box was on my last car. So if my reciever held up to taking hits there, I figure my all metal gear servo will be safe.
I think I asked the question wrong....

My servo is actually taking the hits fine. It's the plastic steering servo mounts that are attached to the graphite upper deck that are breaking.
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Old 12-09-2003, 12:16 PM   #1119
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There are centax clutch adjustment tools out there. They cost upwards of $15~25. But why waste money when you can just use a pair of pliers? Scrapeing the adjustment nut wont hurt anything
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Old 12-09-2003, 12:19 PM   #1120
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chewdogg
I think I asked the question wrong....

My servo is actually taking the hits fine. It's the plastic steering servo mounts that are attached to the graphite upper deck that are breaking.
Try loosening the steering post thread collar .5mm. Stock setting is 1mm down from the start of the threads. If you are past that, you might have too much tension in there.

ps: check your dual rate. might want to lower it, going over the limit of the steering post's motion is not to good. if its not a dual rate problem, disregard!
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Old 12-09-2003, 12:35 PM   #1121
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With the help of calipers, I see the difference in size between the two thrust bearing washers. I wonder why HPI didn't reference this in their manual?

Also, how did you all find out which way("large hole in first" is what I read in a previous post) was correct? Who told you?
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Old 12-09-2003, 03:37 PM   #1122
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Quote:
Also, how did you all find out which way("large hole in first" is what I read in a previous post) was correct? Who told you?
It's actually listed in the serpent 705 manual..

and for adjusting the centax, you guys know you can just use a small allen wrench to turn the adjuster nut once the clutch is installed...?
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Old 12-09-2003, 04:01 PM   #1123
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As for the grease, I didn't put any in mine. The instruction doesn't mention anything about grease and the kit didn't include any, so I figured grease wasn't required. Also, since the thrust bearing isn't sealed and grease has a way of attracting dirt and grim, I figured no grease is better. I hope I'm not fixing to blow my bearing all over Gods' creation
Yes it seems HPI left some facts out of the manual, I guess they figure it's a PRO car, and the definition of PRO means you will be able to predict the product designers intentions. But the thrust should certainly be lubed, I used a moly type black grease, the kind you pack car wheel bearings will do the job. A handy invention would be to make a small plastic threaded dust cap for the end of the clutch bell to keep it nice and clean and keep crud (tire dust) out of the thrust bearing. In a pinch you can use the small tube of white grease HPI provides in the kit to lube the CVD's and diff, but don't leave it dry. I also used a dry lube (dry graphite, fine powder) to lube the thrust plate and weights so the clutch will operate consistently. Dry lubes are great since they don't tend to attract dirt/dust. And is about the only lube you can use in the clutch so it won't fly out with centrifigul force. Also good for lubing hinge pins, pivot balls, and anything else you want to function smoothly over time. The graphite also works great on the steering linkage pivots/cranks.
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Old 12-09-2003, 04:13 PM   #1124
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Quote:
With the help of calipers, I see the difference in size between the two thrust bearing washers. I wonder why HPI didn't reference this in their manual?
It may be possible HPI rolled out the R40 with the manual "half baked". I find lots of little tid bits that they didn't touch on, just basic assembly stuff.

And I am being patient that HPI will release a suppliment, or something to cover all the little do-dads and tuning tricks, like the suspension mounts, little rubber bushing options, pulley/drive settings and such. I am sure information on the little tuning do-dads on the car are not critical to getting good performance out of the car, but I think even HPI states that "a fast car is a predictable car" and it's hard to predict some of the changes when there is no documentation on them. It leaves most of us (without a masters degree in mechanical engineering) to trial and error on many of the tuning options.. I have faith HPI R&D will release some more in depth R40 tuning info..
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Old 12-09-2003, 04:34 PM   #1125
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These are the things that used to get hashed out on the old HPI forum. HPI used to post updates and supplements to the manuals pretty quickly back then. I suppose an email might be in order.
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