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Old 10-29-2006, 10:44 PM   #10936
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Truing your tires down will help. You could also lower the ride height. Some people put CA on the side walls of the tires so the edge doesn't bite as hard. Harder tires are the easiest fix though. One last thing you can try is a tip I saw from one of the serpent factory drivers. You take a credit card and slide it under the front of your chassis. You press down the front of the car until the chassis is sitting on the card. Then you adjust the travel limiters to that level. I have tried this last trick and it actually works.
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Old 10-30-2006, 12:14 AM   #10937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossb
I'll check it out next year. I used to run with BARCAR when they were at the school in Edison so the crowd may be similar. I did see a lot of hacks @ BARCAR but I was usually able to stay out of trouble. I look forward to next year's schedule @ FBF. I have a lot of new mods on my R40 and I want to run it.
BARCAR doesn't run at edison anymore until further notice. For now they host events at Floyd and or possible will try to hold events at BPT's track. Unfortunately connecticuts running hrs are 10am-6pm and that's only so big enough for a lot of ppl to run. Therefore things have to be done FAST. I like how at floyd we run as early as 8am so we have time for other quick events or longer practices. I may continue to run my R40 since I can't seem to sell it as I wanted to try the MTX4. I may buy the car regardless though and leave the R40 as a warm up car.
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Old 10-30-2006, 05:14 AM   #10938
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Quote:
I also had a few questions about some extra parts that came in the box. There were 2 sets of rear bottom hinge pins mount, I mounted the ones with the 0 on it, how will the ones with the 2 change the way the car handles? I imagine that they change the roll center but Im not sure. Also, is it possible to change the front roll center on the R40?


you can flip those purple hinge pin holders the other way to give you more roll.....(thus more steering)
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:07 PM   #10939
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does any one have an extra set of part number 72274. it is the servo saver shafts. i picked up a used r40 and as i was taking it apart to clean it i noticed that they were damaged. i would like to use this one as a beater and not just a parts car for my other r40
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:14 PM   #10940
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I have a clutch problem again, I searched, and it seems like the normal symtom is for the clutch to slip, then engage?


Mine behaves quite the opposite.
Car is a r40 hara with a mega zx12 outlaw.
It would move from 1/4 throttle blips, and it has no problem launching from standstill.

Lets say I have full engagement coming down a straight, and let go for the braking. Everything starts to go wrong from there.
I cannot use the throttle to help point the car, I cannot launch out of a corner.
It doesnt matter if I bilp/feather the throttle cautiously, or just gun it, it just slips.

The clutch just doesnt "re-engage". BAsically, it's something like this:
full gas(engage), let go(disengage), then give gas again(wont engage).

I just need to leave it alone for a second or two( untill it comes to a standstill or a slow roll), then it would have a nice low engagement again.

My car sounds like a clown out there, please advise.

*The mtx4 yellow shoe is just plug&play right?
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:03 PM   #10941
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Default Clutch

Check first your electronics (like servo, of transmitter).
If electronics is fine.

Then go to clutch. Just remove everything. and put it all back following the
instruction manual of R40.


Quote:
Originally Posted by boggysv
I have a clutch problem again, I searched, and it seems like the normal symtom is for the clutch to slip, then engage?


Mine behaves quite the opposite.
Car is a r40 hara with a mega zx12 outlaw.
It would move from 1/4 throttle blips, and it has no problem launching from standstill.

Lets say I have full engagement coming down a straight, and let go for the braking. Everything starts to go wrong from there.
I cannot use the throttle to help point the car, I cannot launch out of a corner.
It doesnt matter if I bilp/feather the throttle cautiously, or just gun it, it just slips.

The clutch just doesnt "re-engage". BAsically, it's something like this:
full gas(engage), let go(disengage), then give gas again(wont engage).

I just need to leave it alone for a second or two( untill it comes to a standstill or a slow roll), then it would have a nice low engagement again.

My car sounds like a clown out there, please advise.

*The mtx4 yellow shoe is just plug&play right?
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Old 11-01-2006, 09:06 PM   #10942
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Get the mugen grey shoe , you must reem it to fit.

Then check your 1st gear one way bearing. It could be blown. This sounds about symptom. You have to nearly start all over on your launch to get it to grab , or you could be just really far from a good clutch setting. Try to just get as little as gap as possible and bring the clutch adjustment nut out as far as possible. With the grey shoe this should work.

I know my r40 clutch was just a mess , and I built a few different ones. Always changing engagement points. The flywheel was amess and had overly long shafts so the cb wasnt touching anyhow. I still cant believe they are including the same damn flywheels in the new hara kit. I have no clue why they havent trimmed down those posts.

This is another to check and do on teh r40 clutch. A good way to tell its happening is there will be a perfect scarred circle on the clutch bell.

I bet once you get this done it will come around some. But it just wasnt consistent enough for me to race. So I went with the mugen and its been nothing short of amazing. I put the clutch together without instruction , jsut how I felt and it worked perfectly fine. Just the way I like it , hits nice and hard and early enough for quick action out of the hole , without having to rev 50% throttle...where as on the r40 it would and like I said sometimes it would grab , next it wouldnt. I buried my clutches in the back yard and quite frankly , I dont visit and lay flowers for them. I normally just relieve myself on them if you know what I mean... LOL
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:23 AM   #10943
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Quote:
Lets say I have full engagement coming down a straight, and let go for the braking. Everything starts to go wrong from there.
Check your two speed clutch's oneway bearing. I've had this problem before. When your car is in first gear, you get clutch engagement without any problems.

Now, when you go onto the long straight and your car shifts over to second gear every thing is fine, untill you slow down and try to accelerate again. It sound like the clutch is not engaging, but it is. When your two speed engaged, the shoes moved outwards untill it touched the housing and the scond gear is engaged. This means that the first gear must be disengaged, to prevent damage to your gears. The first gear disengages by means of the one way bearing in the housing.

The bearing spins freely while the second gear is engaged due to the second gear rotating faster than the first gear.

When you reduce speed, the shoes in the two speed moves inward and disengages the second gear. The oneway bearing is now supose to lock onto the shaft to activate the first gear, but it doesn't, and the result is that your car doesnt move when you apply throttle. It only moves when the speed has reduced to a point where the rollers in the bearing moves inwards and locks the shaft again.

This is a long explanation of it all. Hope it makes sense.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:21 AM   #10944
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thanks for the reply guys.

my electronics are fine. I've scratched my clutch bell once, and trimmed down the posts ever since.

I'm not too sure if I am checking the one way unit at the transmission correctly, but when I rotate it anticlockwise (looking at the car on the side where the gears are), it spins freely, and when rotating it clockwise, it locks fine and drives the belts.

Or could it be the problem only shows on higher speeds?

*another problem now is that I could not find another r40 owner to borrow his 1way and try it out on my car. Nobody drives it anymore here.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:29 AM   #10945
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This is one of those problems you will only see if the two speed works hard and a real load is applied to the oneway bearing.

Here is another test that you can do to determine if it is the two speed. Turn the two set screws of the two speed all the way in so that it doesn't switch to second gear. Drive the car around and see if you've still got the same problem.

If the problem is gone, it is the two speed.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:41 AM   #10946
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you sir, are the smart!!!
(either that, or I'm retarded)

Thanks! going to try it out tomorrow.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:12 PM   #10947
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Little race report from sundays race yesterday.

I did horrible , lol. I also had the car way undergeared. I was trying to pick up the pep , but I think I overshot that as well it made it real hard for me to get a good shift in. I do think it is shifting late though. 0/5 pinion combo

But first two laps of my warm-up lap and bam. Hit this same corner twice (run on to the straight away of a good full 180 degree sweeper.). So that poped the front pillow ball from the knuckles in the front. First time Ive done that on my car. Fixed the car and of course next qualifier , the metal pieces came loose as usual so for the main I super glued them so they wouldnt back out. This seems to happen a lot.

Then In the A-main (not real hard to make with 14 entries). I was again warming up , now with the stock gear setup with a little shorter 2nd. 2/8 pinion combo

With this I noticed the car was a tad slower , not to mention It was out of tune and at the end of the straight was gaining speed like crazy so I had a tendancy to hold out till that power came on hard....which made me take the sweeper off the straight to late and smack. I cracked the rear cg arm (didnt even notice it at first). Just saw that when I would gas the car it would 360.

Then our club race gave away trophies and...I did so bad in the point series as well didnt show up enough to even qualify for a position. LOL.

Iam also going to be switching back to the plastic arms and such. These CG arms I guess are brittle. But then again they ran me for a good year consisting of tight parkinglot racing (lots of board wacking , but lower speeds).

I figure if the hara edition is still coming out with the plastic arms I guess its almost pointless to track down the cg arms anymore. I dunno maybe someone can persuay me to keep them (does anyone think they helped?)

Oh well , It was a beautiful day and I gotta get my game back up.
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Old 11-07-2006, 07:14 PM   #10948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisagame24
does any one have an extra set of part number 72274. it is the servo saver shafts. i picked up a used r40 and as i was taking it apart to clean it i noticed that they were damaged. i would like to use this one as a beater and not just a parts car for my other r40

any one?
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Old 11-07-2006, 11:31 PM   #10949
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Is that the part that the steering tie rod ataches to? If so, you can use one of those aluminum ones they sell, I tried to get one off the LHS the other day, but they were out.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:36 AM   #10950
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i havnt seen any aluminum ones. do you know where i can get them?
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