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Old 09-25-2006, 01:58 AM   #10861
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Remove the plastic part that mounts onto the rear CF shock tower, and mount your posts directly onto the CF shock tower plate.

This will move your posts forward and safe you some weight as well.
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Old 09-26-2006, 01:33 PM   #10862
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HELP NEEDED.

Our national event is in two weeks. I've just received the entry list today and Im the only R40 in the field. I had a look at the previous list and there were about 5 R40s. Looks like we are a dying breed.

Most of the guys have changed to the mtx-4 or the 720.

Im looking for setup info. I've got alot of setup sheets from the web. What im looking for is something like a SETUP FOR DUMMIES. Things like what does setting XXX stand for, what effect does XXX have on car handling, what setting to set first.

I've got the setup book XXX MAIN but it is still limited on the info it provides.

Any link to some good sites?

I need some help to keep this car alive.
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Old 09-26-2006, 03:06 PM   #10863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
HELP NEEDED.

Our national event is in two weeks. I've just received the entry list today and Im the only R40 in the field. I had a look at the previous list and there were about 5 R40s. Looks like we are a dying breed.

Most of the guys have changed to the mtx-4 or the 720.

Im looking for setup info. I've got alot of setup sheets from the web. What im looking for is something like a SETUP FOR DUMMIES. Things like what does setting XXX stand for, what effect does XXX have on car handling, what setting to set first.

I've got the setup book XXX MAIN but it is still limited on the info it provides.

Any link to some good sites?

I need some help to keep this car alive.
Maybe AMG can help you out since he is in your hemisphere. Other then that, the best setup information I have ever seen was put out by serpent. I will attach it here. It has saved me many times. Enjoy.
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:13 AM   #10864
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Thanks Roy,

That will help me alot
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:39 AM   #10865
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Yep I agree with Roy, the Xray setup book, the Hudy one or the XXX Main one is a good starting point for car setups.

Another hint is to use Mugen springs and the Mugen clutch, and you can "steal" setups from the Mugens which I found works very nicely.
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:17 AM   #10866
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Thanks AMGRACER,

Youíve had the mugen for a while now. Are you a fully converted Mugen mtx-4 guy, or would you drop the mugen for a day and go racing with the r40 and still be confident to get good performance.

We have allot of mugen drivers at our track that used to drive the R40s. All of them had the heavy old R40s. They all say the mtx-4 is better, but every one of them also mentioned that they never drove the hara kit. (I find it also very funny that each and every one asks me if the hara kit comes with a new clutch).

It was only my second race this weekend.(see my story of first race a couple of posts back). After I finished second in the A-mains, a couple of them came over and asked if they could take the hara kit for a test drive. Said to them that it is fine it they drive it after the nationals. (Donít want someone else to brake my car before such a big event).

How do you compare the hara kit to the mtx-4? Since you are propably one of maybe 10 guys that owns both and used them in a competitive enviourment There are so many guys out there that say this car is better than that car, but they've never raced all those cars.
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:38 AM   #10867
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The R40 is still competitive, especially the Hara edition. Its a great design, and the new hara is light enough to not require a ton of hopups. I had quite a lot of success with the R40 vs Mugens and other cars.

The primary difference in the way the cars drive to my mind is the R40 is a very smooth and flowing car whereas the Mugen is much more twitchy and agressive. Now I have a handle on the MTX4 I can say that it probably makes a touch more rear grip than the R40, so overall you can dial in more steering and still have it hang on. There however is very little difference in a well driven R40 and a well driven MTX4, regardless of what eveybody tells you.

I personally went to the MTX4 as I was encouraged to do so by a local guy here who has looked after me very well. Also I can nowdays get MTX4 parts very easily and R40 parts are very hard to come by. The other major reason I went to the MTX4 is of course the excellent clutch. The R40 clutch can be made to work very well, but lacks many tuning options and requires modifications to get it consistent. The other major advantage of the MTX4 is the amount of tuning the rear end has over the R40, much more shock and rollcentre options.

The Mugen certainly is a better "quality" car than the R40. The metals and plastics used in it are top notch and are noticably one generation ahead of the HPI parts. Still the HPI works well regardless.

I still have my R40s and I will use them in the side exhaust class as side exhausts cannot fit the Mugen without grinding the bulkheads.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:45 AM   #10868
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Very well written AMG. I feel as though I just got a real comparison, without having to drive it myself. This is what ive heard as well I can easily see it at the track.

What did you get your lap times down too vs the r40? Also are you thinking about trying the 720? Ive been hearing about a lot of drivings skipping around cars lately. Mugen drivers going 720 getting better times etc etc. But given fast harrys review It sounds like it was lacking in some areas.
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:19 PM   #10869
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I myself will be going mtx4 next year, but for now I'm going to enter my R40 in the Region 1 Champs event. It only has the .12TR, but Floyd Bennett (the new location of the event), is more technical that BPT. I'll post pics soon.
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:51 PM   #10870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Very well written AMG. I feel as though I just got a real comparison, without having to drive it myself. This is what ive heard as well I can easily see it at the track.

What did you get your lap times down too vs the r40? Also are you thinking about trying the 720? Ive been hearing about a lot of drivings skipping around cars lately. Mugen drivers going 720 getting better times etc etc. But given fast harrys review It sounds like it was lacking in some areas.
Laptimes are tough to compare now as I am using a new set of motors in my MTX4 that are significantly faster than my old set. I am faster with the Mugen now, but a lot of that is due to horsepower.

I personally will not get a Serpent, their parts locally are very expensive and hard to get. Also I dont like some of the way things are designed on that car, I generally prefer the japanese designed cars as they suit my style more.

Getting better laptimes from a new chassis is a tough call. Most people put a new motor in a new car, hence better laptimes. Other people screw up their setup so bad on their existing car that the stock setup on the new car is better, hence better laptimes. And sometimes one car suits somebody better than another. The art is working out what car suits your style and learning how to drive it, not getting a new chassis, moding it and adding hopusp and then chasing a setup endlessly. Most new cars make so much grip now that you should rarely have to make major setup changes to get them to be fast. They should be fast stock if driven well, and tweaked to improve their performance. I drove my Mugen with no changes for a few weeks to really understand how it wanted to be driven, then tuned it from there.
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:17 AM   #10871
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Hi AMGracer,

I found you post earlier.

Post #9826

It's about the clutch screws. I have stripped mine. Both of them. I couldn't find anywhere for the replacement of 94275 and 94276.

and you have suggested that use Z423 as a replacement. Would the Z423 cap head be too far out of the clutch shoe?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:55 AM   #10872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolson
Hi AMGracer,

I found you post earlier.

Post #9826

It's about the clutch screws. I have stripped mine. Both of them. I couldn't find anywhere for the replacement of 94275 and 94276.

and you have suggested that use Z423 as a replacement. Would the Z423 cap head be too far out of the clutch shoe?

Thanks in advance!
It does work, but it is very close. I have used them on mine for around 6 months and still no rubbing. It is possible that if you adjust the shift point very early they could rub, but I did not have this problem.

If you cant find these screws let me know I think I have some spares lying around.
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:42 AM   #10873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
It does work, but it is very close. I have used them on mine for around 6 months and still no rubbing. It is possible that if you adjust the shift point very early they could rub, but I did not have this problem.

If you cant find these screws let me know I think I have some spares lying around.

Thanks!

I will have a look around my local hobby shop. will let you know if i need any.

BTW, How many truns have you loosen those 2 screws before it is rubbing the clutch bell?

Cheers!
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Old 09-29-2006, 02:21 PM   #10874
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=7218


My front belt is getting too tight, I've cleaned the gears, made sure they are correct parts, but the problem is still there.
only thing left is replacing the front bulkhead.


Are there any other solutions to this?
I've heard of using the v1rrr belt?

please advise.
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Old 09-30-2006, 01:55 AM   #10875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boggysv
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=7218


My front belt is getting too tight, I've cleaned the gears, made sure they are correct parts, but the problem is still there.
only thing left is replacing the front bulkhead.


Are there any other solutions to this?
I've heard of using the v1rrr belt?

please advise.
I suggest taking the entire front end apart along with the top deck. Make sure everything is in good shape and that the arms move freeley. Also check to make sure that the chassis is not bent.
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