HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
I decided to combine the ideas of putting a sping on and extra fuel line and the problem seems to be resolved. I hope to have a picture of it tomorrow.
Kinda quiet in here. Everybody on vacation?
Harry, nice diecast collection. Now I know what you needed the money for huh?
Harry, nice diecast collection. Now I know what you needed the money for huh?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Kinda quiet in here. Everybody on vacation?
Harry, nice diecast collection. Now I know what you needed the money for huh?
Harry, nice diecast collection. Now I know what you needed the money for huh?
I just want to start getting rid of things if I'm not going to use/build/race them....esp. while they still have some value....
I can't even begin to tell you how much racer 2 stuff I own....that i9s now worthless....and never used....
plus parts,started boxes..etc...
all I need is one nitro car when I go racing.....and to be honest,I haven't raced nitro yet this year,.,,,,
ALTHOUGH,I am having an absolutely blast racing my pro 4 with brushless and lipo's....
more time running,less mess,less set up,less breaking.....and faster around a parking lot course(125 by 150 feet)..with road rail...
so I have to see next year what I want to run.....
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by fastharry
that too...
I just want to start getting rid of things if I'm not going to use/build/race them....esp. while they still have some value....
I can't even begin to tell you how much racer 2 stuff I own....that i9s now worthless....and never used....
plus parts,started boxes..etc...
all I need is one nitro car when I go racing.....and to be honest,I haven't raced nitro yet this year,.,,,,
ALTHOUGH,I am having an absolutely blast racing my pro 4 with brushless and lipo's....
more time running,less mess,less set up,less breaking.....and faster around a parking lot course(125 by 150 feet)..with road rail...
so I have to see next year what I want to run.....
I just want to start getting rid of things if I'm not going to use/build/race them....esp. while they still have some value....
I can't even begin to tell you how much racer 2 stuff I own....that i9s now worthless....and never used....
plus parts,started boxes..etc...
all I need is one nitro car when I go racing.....and to be honest,I haven't raced nitro yet this year,.,,,,
ALTHOUGH,I am having an absolutely blast racing my pro 4 with brushless and lipo's....
more time running,less mess,less set up,less breaking.....and faster around a parking lot course(125 by 150 feet)..with road rail...
so I have to see next year what I want to run.....
I just retrieved my racer2 out of the garage after letting it sit after I destroyed some lizard on the road....at least thats what I guess it was. I brought my car back to me and there was guts and mini intestines splattered all over it.
After about 6 months out in the humidity it looks to be forming some sort of metal rot or something. Ive never seen it before but its spotted and green dust growing from those spots. Its on my cv-r like crazy.
I broke it down to clean it and my f/r belts are toast. Also could probably use a new rear diff...but im checking it out tonight and rebuilding it. Hopefully its ok.
I just relized how completely idiotic these things were built. I thought the r40 was more complex , I was wrong. The 2speed shaft has like 4 C clips a set screw for the 2speed to lock onto the shaft (took me 5 minutes to figure that out) and Im pulling like 3 pins out of it too and Im like my god this is not quick and easy like the r40.
Upper deck is flimsy like paper and the chassis also bends like crazy. No wonder this thing weighs like 200g under my already almost illegal weighted r40.
I also forgot that the mechanism inside the 2speed is completely metal. No wonder it still shifts like butter. I polished and cleaned that all up. Should be back together by tonight I hope for some running. Cant let it get all nasty like that again....
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
I've been busy here with all sorts of stuff. I now have a new job that's closer to home so I'm busy there. I do have my sunday off again so that's track day. I can't wait to whip out the onroads again for some running.
Tech Rookie
Hey guys ust brought a second hand r40 and having some trobule starting it hey (im new to nitro cars know abit about electirc tho|)
anyway
its electric start and im having alot og trouble making the enging turn
this is what came with it
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4341/dsc7719ne5.jpg
anyway it just keeps binding up or wearing rubber away
im charging the batteries as we speak so it might be thier too flat
also ive topped her up with fuel from the servo station jks :P
went and brough some special shit
another questing is about glow plugs
in this pic http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/8807/dsc7724ue0.jpg
its really small to see but everyone see the black handeled one
how do i tell if the car is hot enough to start ?? on the red or green
im sorta lost
thanks guys
anyway
its electric start and im having alot og trouble making the enging turn
this is what came with it
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4341/dsc7719ne5.jpg
anyway it just keeps binding up or wearing rubber away
im charging the batteries as we speak so it might be thier too flat
also ive topped her up with fuel from the servo station jks :P
went and brough some special shit
another questing is about glow plugs
in this pic http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/8807/dsc7724ue0.jpg
its really small to see but everyone see the black handeled one
how do i tell if the car is hot enough to start ?? on the red or green
im sorta lost
thanks guys
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Yeah your batteries need to be charged up on the "starter box". This should allow it to spin the motor faster.
The glow-ignitor (the black handled thing you speak of). Should be in the green for charged fully. Make sure both are good to go , fill the tank , stick your finger over the exhaust tip (when cool only first start of day). And run it on the starter box for like 1.5 seconds.
Then , switch everything on. TX first , RX second (the switch on the car). Apply the glow-ignitor and then proceed to start the car. If it doesnt start within 5 seconds. Take the ignitor off and rest for like 30 seconds.
Then try the ignitor again and starter box. (no need to reprime the fuel).
Should start up , good luck. If you cant start it , try the nitro engine zone....lots of people there are good with engines.
The glow-ignitor (the black handled thing you speak of). Should be in the green for charged fully. Make sure both are good to go , fill the tank , stick your finger over the exhaust tip (when cool only first start of day). And run it on the starter box for like 1.5 seconds.
Then , switch everything on. TX first , RX second (the switch on the car). Apply the glow-ignitor and then proceed to start the car. If it doesnt start within 5 seconds. Take the ignitor off and rest for like 30 seconds.
Then try the ignitor again and starter box. (no need to reprime the fuel).
Should start up , good luck. If you cant start it , try the nitro engine zone....lots of people there are good with engines.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Hey what engine is that? Looks like some RB engine.
Tech Rookie
LOL your aksing a complete n00b :P
Tech Rookie
Ok got the car to start but all it does is idel and when i pull my trigger it just revs and dosent go now where ???
is thier something im missing out ??
is thier something im missing out ??
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
There could be a lot of things involved in this.
1. When you throttle the engine does the clutch bell spin?
If not your clutch needs work
2. If the clutch bell spins then your 2 speed should also spin. if this spins but the 2speed shaft remains stationary then You are either missing the pin for the shaft (inside the 2 speed) or the one way in your 2 speed is shot. If it won't spin at all then the posts that pass through your brake disk have most likely slid out & are hitting the bulk head under the brake actuator shaft
3. You should be able to grab both rear tires (car on stand & engine off) and rotate them both & see the all the belts & shafts turn with out binding. You should also do the same with the front tires & have the same result. If you do have binding You should pop the side belt off & repeat the process to determine if the problem is with the front or rear.
Try these steps & let us know what you find & we can take it from there if you are still stuck.
1. When you throttle the engine does the clutch bell spin?
If not your clutch needs work
2. If the clutch bell spins then your 2 speed should also spin. if this spins but the 2speed shaft remains stationary then You are either missing the pin for the shaft (inside the 2 speed) or the one way in your 2 speed is shot. If it won't spin at all then the posts that pass through your brake disk have most likely slid out & are hitting the bulk head under the brake actuator shaft
3. You should be able to grab both rear tires (car on stand & engine off) and rotate them both & see the all the belts & shafts turn with out binding. You should also do the same with the front tires & have the same result. If you do have binding You should pop the side belt off & repeat the process to determine if the problem is with the front or rear.
Try these steps & let us know what you find & we can take it from there if you are still stuck.
Originally Posted by Jenova
LOL your aksing a complete n00b :P
Sounds like your current problem is with the clutch.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Originally Posted by Jenova
LOL your aksing a complete n00b :P
R40-OS.12TR(soon new engine)-THS racing pipe-Hi Servos
MRX4-Nova Top-THS racing pipe-JR Z servos
JR Z-1 Spektrum Radio
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Doesn't matter - I'm simply asking what engine is it. I'll make the assumption it is infact an RB engine. Infact I'll tell you what I'm running...
R40-OS.12TR(soon new engine)-THS racing pipe-Hi Servos
MRX4-Nova Top-THS racing pipe-JR Z servos
JR Z-1 Spektrum Radio
R40-OS.12TR(soon new engine)-THS racing pipe-Hi Servos
MRX4-Nova Top-THS racing pipe-JR Z servos
JR Z-1 Spektrum Radio
have to correct u thier
its got fubuta servos ??? cant tell u excatly its in the shop getting fixed cluth problem
also the guy rekons its a techwell .14 ???
while im here what does the .12 or .14 mean??
Tech Initiate
front and rear belt?
hey everybody,
I just screwed up my r40.
So far I have got 1.5L of fuel through it (new car new engine), and I broke the front belt and damaged the rear.
This occured when I was playing on the street.
(My fault for playing chase with a dog and ended up going through pebbles/mud/some sand, and defaced the underbody)
Anyways, other than the hpi rubber belts, are there any other options I can use?
well, just found out I damaged this too after the belt broke.
I just screwed up my r40.
So far I have got 1.5L of fuel through it (new car new engine), and I broke the front belt and damaged the rear.
This occured when I was playing on the street.
(My fault for playing chase with a dog and ended up going through pebbles/mud/some sand, and defaced the underbody)
Anyways, other than the hpi rubber belts, are there any other options I can use?
well, just found out I damaged this too after the belt broke.
Last edited by boggysv; 08-27-2006 at 11:24 AM.