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Old 08-11-2006, 08:40 PM   #10711
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Sounds good. Not sure if I'll sell the current version I have now to go to the Hara as I won't be able to buy one for a while. Still have other necessities to take care of. My sis has a tag sale tomorrow and was thinking of posting it up, but not quite sure.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:10 PM   #10712
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ok so i was at the track today helping out a buddy...trying to help out a buddy....he just got and R40....mine is on its way still...umm i am going from a ntc3 to this so i just suddenley realized set up wise that it is much different...can anyone help me with some tips set up wise...and or does anyone have a starting or base setup for a medium sized high grip ashphalt track

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Old 08-13-2006, 07:12 AM   #10713
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If you get a manual just build it like the manual states. Thats the base setup and most say its a pretty good starting point.

I would say though a stock setup for your suspension angles would be in this range.

Ride Height:
4-6.5 , play around with settings , equal height front and rear......you can also try a lower front by a tad.

0 front toe
+2.0 to +3.0 rear toe
-1.5 to -2.0 camber front
-2.0 to -3.0 camber rear

Then based upon your track conditions you might want to adjust your shock fluid. If your kit comes with a one-way you might want to swap that for a spool if you like using your brakes.

Then tune from there.
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:32 PM   #10714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Did you shave the engine mounting holes a tad to get better fitment. I tried this a little and it helped. I saw you mention this.

But now that you say you cant get them full engaged. Do you mean like where you want them or they should be. I have mind kinda weird but it seems to be going ok. Allthough there is some funky stuff showing up on my spur gears.

Im going to try shaving the holes more , but do you think the shape of clutchbell could be making it impossible. I figure on the same center axis with the same r40 gears it should be able to match perfectly into the spur , just not perhaps tooth to tooth with each other , but depth wise into each other they should be fine right?
I was talking about stock with no mods. If you slightly shave the engine holes around 1mm the pinions and spurs mesh totally. What you need to then watch is that the bell does not rub the chassis, you can file a small chamfer into the chassis to get the required clearance.
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:34 PM   #10715
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Ah cool. I was like uhh ohhh , I cant let this clutch go.

Im not sure if its possible but I think you can also run a kyosho RRR clutch. Id have to look into that though.
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:36 PM   #10716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Ah cool. I was like uhh ohhh , I cant let this clutch go.

Im not sure if its possible but I think you can also run a kyosho RRR clutch. Id have to look into that though.
That one I have no idea about. Might be worth a try though!
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:40 AM   #10717
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Any of you guys know what this is?
It says that it is a steering upgrade for the R40.
Attached Thumbnails
HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-hpic3345.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2006, 12:18 PM   #10718
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I am having trouble with the brake linkage returning to an "off" type of setting at wot. I have not bent the wire yet.
Do I just need to bend the wire and if so what should I use to bend it?
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Old 08-14-2006, 02:31 PM   #10719
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Are you saying that when you are at WOT the brakes are actually applied slightly because the brake linkage is slightly pushed in the opposite direction? Or, that after you let of from WOT the brakes are slightly applied instead of been completely released?
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:27 PM   #10720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrD
Any of you guys know what this is?
It says that it is a steering upgrade for the R40.
The is the steering assembly from the HPI nitro rush. Not a R40 part.
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:11 AM   #10721
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Huh, nevermind then, the website is not very trustworthy then...
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:25 AM   #10722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrD
Are you saying that when you are at WOT the brakes are actually applied slightly because the brake linkage is slightly pushed in the opposite direction? Or, that after you let of from WOT the brakes are slightly applied instead of been completely released?
When I let off of WOT the brakes are slightly applied. A friend thinks that the brake horn is traveling to far and is getting jammed.

I was looking at someone else's R40 and it looked like they had put some fuel line on the segment of the rod between the servo horn and the brake horn. Would this fix my problem?
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Old 08-15-2006, 01:46 PM   #10723
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I forgot why I did mine in the same sort of fashion. But from what I remember it keeps things from getting stuck.

Another reason you can have brake at 0 throttle is because the brake is set to tight either on the linkage , the radio could be set towards the brake side for neutral , the brake plate screws are too tight.

Check all of this and get it to brake right yet roll at 0% throttle for a good 10 feet with a good push. At least if your bearings are clean.
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:54 PM   #10724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpm31390
When I let off of WOT the brakes are slightly applied. A friend thinks that the brake horn is traveling to far and is getting jammed.

I was looking at someone else's R40 and it looked like they had put some fuel line on the segment of the rod between the servo horn and the brake horn. Would this fix my problem?

this is the way the linkage should look....fuel line for spacing only...and a spring on the other side to prevent the brakes from staying in a rearward position,.,,,the linkage stops(the purple thing are OFNA pieces)...

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Old 08-15-2006, 05:20 PM   #10725
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by the way..

I just picked up the complete collection of HPI's die cast cars.....they consist of the 4 subie rally cars on their website......which I ordered from tower...

PLUS they offer 3 very limited subes on buy HPI only.....one is 600 worldwide...the other 2 are 160 worldwide(16 only in the USA)....

the cars are absolutely a joy to look at...sweetness in a box..
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