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Old 07-12-2006, 07:57 PM   #10576
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It gives the rear end more suspension stroke. Which im guessing your going to loose rear grip with less suspension stroke. At least possibly on bumpier track surfaces.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:30 PM   #10577
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I am just wondering what the difference is between the one way differential and the other diffs are? and what is better for parking lot racing and street racing. on a partialy technical cource with a straight away. I'm just asking because the hara edition has a front one way diff. and would this be something to switch out the one way for

Last edited by cars.cars.cars; 07-12-2006 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:50 PM   #10578
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I am finally ready to hit the track. I have the Mugen clutch and it seems to be too short. I mean the gears aren't lined up perfectly. Do I need another set of motor mounts, or is this and indication I have something wrong Thanks
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:13 PM   #10579
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Originally Posted by cars.cars.cars
I am just wondering what the difference is between the one way differential and the other diffs are? and what is better for parking lot racing and street racing. on a partialy technical cource with a straight away. I'm just asking because the hara edition has a front one way diff. and would this be something to switch out the one way for
^^^ Does anyone have an answer???
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:31 PM   #10580
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Heres a quick run down.

One-Way: Suitable for open , flowing , high speed tracks. You get the most turn in with this one and can apply power during a turn more aggressively. Using brakes now only works on the rears and causes car to easily spin with over braking.

Spool (rear solid diff) used in the front: Good for tight tracks. Aggressive drive , less turn in , can use full brakes , less power can be used during the turn , more tire wear on the front.
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:33 PM   #10581
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Also to let everyone know. I got my hara kit today and allthough many requests from me and a few others. There are quite a few additional addendums for the hara kit , I need to go through it all. But there is one that seems to be quite important for those who are upgrading from 2003/2004 version and just getting the hara parts, your pretty much left out in the cold on how to setup the vehicle w/ the instructions included with those parts dont give you this information.

So Ill have those all scanned in and posted up soon for everyone. Unfortunately no one with a hara/2005 kit has done so yet or even read any sort of this information to us. But thats ok , thats why im here to help those who are in need of this information.

Ill then be able to give a true upgrade list and instructions for those looking to upgrade there vehicles rather than buy a whole new kit.
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:15 PM   #10582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I am finally ready to hit the track. I have the Mugen clutch and it seems to be too short. I mean the gears aren't lined up perfectly. Do I need another set of motor mounts, or is this and indication I have something wrong Thanks
You could put a washer behind the flywheel collet. You might also need to use a mugen collet.
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:16 PM   #10583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Also to let everyone know. I got my hara kit today and allthough many requests from me and a few others. There are quite a few additional addendums for the hara kit , I need to go through it all. But there is one that seems to be quite important for those who are upgrading from 2003/2004 version and just getting the hara parts, your pretty much left out in the cold on how to setup the vehicle w/ the instructions included with those parts dont give you this information.

So Ill have those all scanned in and posted up soon for everyone. Unfortunately no one with a hara/2005 kit has done so yet or even read any sort of this information to us. But thats ok , thats why im here to help those who are in need of this information.

Ill then be able to give a true upgrade list and instructions for those looking to upgrade there vehicles rather than buy a whole new kit.
Awsome, looking foward to reading your findings here.
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:19 PM   #10584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
I had a bit of an accident and damaged the cf sub plate on my 2005 kit (part 73090B, where rear shocks connect to). The previous kits did not have this part.

Will the car still handle ok if I remove them both? I think the rear shock shaft for 2005 kit may be shorter than the previous kits. If it is, it might give me problems when changing the ride height.

What do you guys think?
I seem to remember fastharry posting that using those extensions made the rear grip better. I searched way back but couldn't find his post. Maybe he is still lurking around and can comment.
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:24 PM   #10585
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Yeah I went and read the addendums today and it said it gives the r40 a wider range of settings. Which not sure if it meant to say a wider sweet spot or just more settings to play with.
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Old 07-13-2006, 06:13 PM   #10586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I am finally ready to hit the track. I have the Mugen clutch and it seems to be too short. I mean the gears aren't lined up perfectly. Do I need another set of motor mounts, or is this and indication I have something wrong Thanks
No you don't need another set of motor mounts. What you need is a yelow standard pinon, a dremel with a cutting bit and grinding bit. What you need to do is cut the lip off the pinon and use the lip as a washer to slide between the first and second pinon. I sent you an e-mail with the specifics. Let me know how it goes.
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Old 07-13-2006, 07:48 PM   #10587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
You could put a washer behind the flywheel collet. You might also need to use a mugen collet.
The washer behind wont work. It reduces the amount of area you have to shim the thrustbearing with too much. The Mugen clutch flat out does not fit right and you need to take a little bit of material out of the chassis to make it fit. It is very easy to do.
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Old 07-13-2006, 07:49 PM   #10588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beateknishun
No you don't need another set of motor mounts. What you need is a yelow standard pinon, a dremel with a cutting bit and grinding bit. What you need to do is cut the lip off the pinon and use the lip as a washer to slide between the first and second pinon. I sent you an e-mail with the specifics. Let me know how it goes.
Actually thats a very good idea as well. Should work a treat.
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Old 07-13-2006, 07:54 PM   #10589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
I seem to remember fastharry posting that using those extensions made the rear grip better. I searched way back but couldn't find his post. Maybe he is still lurking around and can comment.
It does a number of things to the rear shock setup. First they are more laid over (duh). Second it uses a little more of the available stroke. Lastly it changes the "spring rate" or the way that the movement of the arm affects the usage of the spring.

It is not so much of a single simple explaination as to the changes, but suffice it to say it makes the rear "work better" and in my opinion match the way the front works better. I tested the rear with both setups when they first became available and I could not find a scenario where I did not like how the car felt with the extension used better than without. But that also is my personal preference and perhaps relates only to my track.
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:53 PM   #10590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Heres a quick run down.

One-Way: Suitable for open , flowing , high speed tracks. You get the most turn in with this one and can apply power during a turn more aggressively. Using brakes now only works on the rears and causes car to easily spin with over braking.

Spool (rear solid diff) used in the front: Good for tight tracks. Aggressive drive , less turn in , can use full brakes , less power can be used during the turn , more tire wear on the front.
What about the ball diff? or is there not one for the r40?
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