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Old 06-20-2006, 02:50 AM   #10486
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Default lol..

he :P
just wandering is there any kind of engine , that the r40 just cant handle?
like the fastest engine there is.
just want to know if the car is solid enough.
o btw hardkonnen thx for the link bout' the mustang.
maybe ill buy it .
laterr
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Old 06-20-2006, 06:08 AM   #10487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movingparts
Hi R40 fans!

Glad to know that a lot people do appreciate having a r40 kits..friends told me that i should get a g4 and they always say something bad abut r40, anybody who can relate with me?
Yeah its odd how much "other" kit owners bash on the R40. I cant really place why. Ask them why next time. See what answers they come up with.

Ive never driven another top level nitro car so I cant really help yah on that one.

As for the second gear hub popping off. Thats really weird. Especially if you put a new e-clip thats what keeps it on. Maybe try getting one from another company that might be stronger. Another thing is possibly try knarling up the inner groove of your shaft with a razor blade to help the e-clip stick to that groove.

Good luck.
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Old 06-20-2006, 06:09 AM   #10488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven w
he :P
just wandering is there any kind of engine , that the r40 just cant handle?
like the fastest engine there is.
just want to know if the car is solid enough.
o btw hardkonnen thx for the link bout' the mustang.
maybe ill buy it .
laterr
StEVE
>>>>>>>>out<<<<<<<<
It can handle anything your wallet can.
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Old 06-20-2006, 06:46 AM   #10489
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Default hehe

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It can handle anything your wallet can.
loL...oke
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Old 06-20-2006, 10:27 AM   #10490
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Quote:
you forgot to round the edges on the tires....
Why do you need to round the edge? I've just bought a truer and I'm still trying it out. Doesn't that reduce the contact area between the tire and the road?

When I've used new tyres, the edges are round, but after a while the whole surface is flat. Should these edge be rounded again?
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Old 06-20-2006, 11:04 AM   #10491
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You want to round the edges. So the cars tires dont grab or dig, which will cause inconsistent handling. As well can cause traction roll.

Less contact patch also increases the amount of weight on that smaller amount of tire. So its kind of a trade-off. Im not fully sure what this effect causes but its not as bad as some think to have skinnier tires on a car.

A lot of people misbelieve that a wider tire will make a car grip more but theres more to it than that.
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Old 06-20-2006, 11:29 AM   #10492
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Another thing about tires.

Lets say I fitted a new set of tires to the front and back. By the time my rear tires are worn away, the front tires are only halfway worn. So I normally fit a new set all the way around, as I am not prepared to true a new set of rear tires to the same size as my front set of tires. Now, I've got a box full of half worn front tires.

Has someone had the same problem, and if you had, how do you work around it?

Thanks
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Old 06-20-2006, 12:34 PM   #10493
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I'd fit on a new set of foams in the rear and trim them to the desired size and or the same size as fronts after I reduce .5mm or 1mm off the fronts to restore surface area. I totally made sure I got full usage of my 8th onroad tires...take a look!



Before they were almost this size.



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Old 06-20-2006, 03:36 PM   #10494
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ProE - yep it is quite normal for the rears to wear more than the fronts. The R40 is much more balanced on tires than older gas cars used to be. In fact in my last 20 minute main I wore 2mm off the fronts and only 2.5mm off the rears, I started with a 1 mm stagger so it worked out pretty well. You will find as well as your driving skill improves you use less rear tire, you learn to balance the cars attitude in the corner better with the throttle, meaning you lean less hard on the rear tires.

You also definately want to round off the edges of the tires. In fact you can change quite a bit about how the car handles based on the width of the tire and the profiling of its edge and face.

When I run my electric car on a quite tight track, I usually cut my tires down to 24mm from 26mm. I also round the edges off quite a lot, in fact the fact of the tire is not really flat. This is because I want the car to be nimble and turn well, and we are tuning the overall contact patch to suit the conditions.

On the gas cars I generally use the full face of the tire, 26mm front and 30mm rear as there is more horsepower available to the tire patch. I usually only slightly round the edges of the tire in that case. If the tire edge remains sharp as it rolls across its face you get increasingly less contact patch on the road as the sharp edge "lifts" the contact patch away. Look at any 1:1 car tire. You can experiment with edge profiles to change the way the car grips "on the edge" of adhesion.
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:03 AM   #10495
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all these talk about tyres makes me sad.

Be as inexperienced as I am, I forgot to monitor my tyres.

Now, the excessive rear camber and straight line running has now turned my rear wheels conical
(larger diameter on the outside)

Time to run positive camber to balanced things out!!!
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:29 AM   #10496
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Speaking of tires. Where do all of you guys buy your 1/10th scale foam tires? What are some good brands? I would like to get some with black rims. I am also looking to buy them online.
Also is it absolutely necessary for me to true my tires? Is there another method for doing so besides buying a tire truer? What about balancing? Do you need to balance foam tires as well as true them for good perfomance? Or is balancing something you only do with rubber tires?

Thanks guys.
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:36 AM   #10497
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If you have access to a tire truer, cut them so they are flat. In sedan I see no need to run with excessive camber. 8th onroad you can run upto 3 degrees camber because they have a lot of foam material on them. Check a few posts on this page or the previous for a comparison. I'd run maybe -1.5 camber on a sedan, but see no need for more. It all depends on whos driving though. That's my opinion. Right now my R40 is mostly stock except no camber front and rear -1 degree of camber. The car still handles on rails especially now that I see how it works with/without front droop. Using front droop the car will have a bit of understeer but you can corner harder without spining out or overshooting the turn. My previous R40 only had the following:

LW chassis
CF shock towers
LW 2speed
LW shafts

My current R40 has just the LW 2speed on it and it still allows me to run with other cars at the track. The stock 2speed really is pretty good too, but the LW 2speed and shafts do remove a noticable amount of weight off the car. I'd mod the stock setup if I had time to n such like bore out the stock shafts and someparts of the 2speed metal parts.
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Old 06-21-2006, 02:49 PM   #10498
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Me AGAIN, about tires AGAIN.

I was just browsing through my manual, and on P21 I saw the section where the front pulley shaft is being assembled. I then remembered that when I assembled my kit, there were a 22T and a 23T pulley. The kit says to use the 23T pulley.

So if I use the 22T pulley it would change my gear ratios so that the front wheels would rotate faster than the rear wheels.

So, going back to all my half worn front tires, If were to fit the 22T pulley, I could be able to use the half worn front tire and new tires at the rear. My only concern is that the difference between the two diameters could be too big. That would cause either the front or rear tires to drag.

I've realised that this is NOT very good for your belts as this adds a lot of strain to them.

I now a couple of pages back people was talking about the use of the 22T pulley.
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Old 06-21-2006, 03:44 PM   #10499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
Me AGAIN, about tires AGAIN.

I was just browsing through my manual, and on P21 I saw the section where the front pulley shaft is being assembled. I then remembered that when I assembled my kit, there were a 22T and a 23T pulley. The kit says to use the 23T pulley.

So if I use the 22T pulley it would change my gear ratios so that the front wheels would rotate faster than the rear wheels.

So, going back to all my half worn front tires, If were to fit the 22T pulley, I could be able to use the half worn front tire and new tires at the rear. My only concern is that the difference between the two diameters could be too big. That would cause either the front or rear tires to drag.

I've realised that this is NOT very good for your belts as this adds a lot of strain to them.

I now a couple of pages back people was talking about the use of the 22T pulley.
You are sort of correct. With the 22t pulley you need to run around a 2mm spread front to rear to keep the drive ratio 1:1. I find this is useful for tighter tracks where you want some more steering as you are effectively lowering your front roll centre in relation to the rear, as well as reducing sidewall in the front, giving more initial bite. However I do not run it that often.

When your car is running all 4 wheels conntected to the drivetrain permantently (ie front diff rear diff) then going too far away from the 2mm split will cause under or over drive on the front wheels. This will make the car handle badly if the gap gets too big, and is more noticable in lower grip. However if you run a front one-way and overdrive the front wheels, this effect is lessened considerably. This is because the oneway will engage at lower drivetrain rotation speeds, but as the drivetrain increases speed the oneway disengages as the drivetrain is now spinning faster than the bearing itself. This is the same principle as the 2 speed gearbox. So what you get with this setup is "4 wheel drive" at lower speeds, and 2 wheel drive at higher speeds, reducing drivetrain drag down the straights.
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Old 06-21-2006, 09:07 PM   #10500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
My current R40 has just the LW 2speed on it and it still allows me to run with other cars at the track. The stock 2speed really is pretty good too, but the LW 2speed and shafts do remove a noticable amount of weight off the car. I'd mod the stock setup if I had time to n such like bore out the stock shafts and someparts of the 2speed metal parts.
Hey Hark, here's one for ya. Figure out how to loose the stock battery cover and you can knock off 13g of weight. Even the big clunky front diff cover is lighter than the battery cover.
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