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Old 06-04-2006, 07:59 AM   #10366
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Default Hpi r40 rally mode

peoplezz.

got a question about the r40.
i was wandering if the R40 can also be set in a rallymode?
i know its a on road car, but like many other on road cars, they can also be set in rallymode, therefore this question.

StEvE.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:58 AM   #10367
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The R40 is a belt driven car specifically made for onroad racing. It in no way is built and or prepared for rally. The belts and drivetrain will be terribly fouled up. Race it on a nice smooth paved track and you'd be happier.
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Old 06-04-2006, 05:53 PM   #10368
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Got back from todays race, was full of events. But the handling and my driving were pretty much the best ive seen. Too bad my car was the opposite.

1st qual , dead battery (practice must of been longer than I thought).
2nd qualifier , didnt know it had started and came in late , got to 3rd and then some guy smacks me hard and my car shuts off.
After that, I hear the clutch revving high and the tension nut was all the way down in. Fixed that and locktite. Ran great after.

Now the night before I replaced the belt to rubber and put in a used lw 2speed set from a kit I got off ebay.

Ran great all day, then the practice before the main. I grab the throttle and get a box of nuetrals. I could only think of amgracers comment. But too funny it happened on another set at the mains....lol. My luck. So I ran it just to watch my motor tear down the track , I tried to keep it on throttle did ok actually....but shut it down cause it just wasnt able to go.

Ah well. Time to get some new one-way bearings.
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Old 06-04-2006, 05:56 PM   #10369
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Sounds good AI. For the moment I'll be using a stock R40 with ths pipe and OS .12TR (via trade), but will probably change to the LW 2spd and shafts as before. No CF towers just yet. I have another one at a diff lhs to snag for $125 with upgrades n such with a ton of spares dirt cheap.
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:31 PM   #10370
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LOL I had to replace the front oneway & the 2speed this week also. Ran today & was very fast. the RB engine & pipe are putting down impressive power. I was able to pull everyone on the straight. Our new surface is much better than the old one. I was able to move from 35s to 37s with improvement. then moved up to 40s & it still felt very good but was only 2 min into the run when the sky opened up so I didn't get a true determination on that. Just some minor tweeking on the clutch & I should be good to go.
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:35 PM   #10371
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What RB engine do you have? Did both items you replace were due to failure?

Anyone know if any of the aftermarket CF towers for the R40 are thicker than the HPI?
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:33 PM   #10372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Got back from todays race, was full of events. But the handling and my driving were pretty much the best ive seen. Too bad my car was the opposite.

1st qual , dead battery (practice must of been longer than I thought).
2nd qualifier , didnt know it had started and came in late , got to 3rd and then some guy smacks me hard and my car shuts off.
After that, I hear the clutch revving high and the tension nut was all the way down in. Fixed that and locktite. Ran great after.

Now the night before I replaced the belt to rubber and put in a used lw 2speed set from a kit I got off ebay.

Ran great all day, then the practice before the main. I grab the throttle and get a box of nuetrals. I could only think of amgracers comment. But too funny it happened on another set at the mains....lol. My luck. So I ran it just to watch my motor tear down the track , I tried to keep it on throttle did ok actually....but shut it down cause it just wasnt able to go.

Ah well. Time to get some new one-way bearings.
Well that sux man!! I am amazed that the same problem would happen on another 2 speed. I am wondering if you have another issue??
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:23 PM   #10373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Well that sux man!! I am amazed that the same problem would happen on another 2 speed. I am wondering if you have another issue??
I was just thinking the same thing. Maybe you got some grit in the bearing and it wore down the shaft.
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:19 AM   #10374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Got back from todays race, was full of events. But the handling and my driving were pretty much the best ive seen. Too bad my car was the opposite.

1st qual , dead battery (practice must of been longer than I thought).
2nd qualifier , didnt know it had started and came in late , got to 3rd and then some guy smacks me hard and my car shuts off.
After that, I hear the clutch revving high and the tension nut was all the way down in. Fixed that and locktite. Ran great after.

Now the night before I replaced the belt to rubber and put in a used lw 2speed set from a kit I got off ebay.

Ran great all day, then the practice before the main. I grab the throttle and get a box of nuetrals. I could only think of amgracers comment. But too funny it happened on another set at the mains....lol. My luck. So I ran it just to watch my motor tear down the track , I tried to keep it on throttle did ok actually....but shut it down cause it just wasnt able to go.

Ah well. Time to get some new one-way bearings.
sorry for the bad luck, I am sure that the pros have similar problems. Do you have any pics of the track and how it was setup? Also how was the traction of the track? I will definitely be at the next race
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:59 AM   #10375
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there seems to be a little play at the this part of my r40. I have ~1mm vertical play along the shaft.


Is it normal?
Can I just add some washers to cure the problem(if so, on top or at the bottom)? Would there be any negative side effects?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:48 PM   #10376
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Made the switch to the Mugen flywheel, weights, gray pad and pressure plate and it's like a new car! The rest of the clutch setup is kyosho hard spring, and the rest is HPI. .1 mm play, and .5 mm gap.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:15 PM   #10377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
What RB engine do you have? Did both items you replace were due to failure?

Anyone know if any of the aftermarket CF towers for the R40 are thicker than the HPI?
Actually I have 3 RB engines. The first was a 0430 which is their base 3port .12 with sg crank & turbo plug. Great engine. I TQ'd the last race of 2005 at Bridgeport with this motor. Since Prospeed will let you run any small block I picked up an 0510 5port .12 and the Mfg recommended turbo pipe to run this season. This is the motor I refered to in the previous post. Finally I also have an 0425 rody 3port to run at Roar spec tracks. I'll be running the rody at the great lakes challenge in August.
As for the bearing failures. The one way was slipping for a second or two on the left side and made getting out of corners on throttle just a little tricky.LOL This was probably due, as I used it for the entire season last year.
The outer (flanged) clutch bearing and the 2 speed got toasted from a faulty 3 racing part. This would be the break stopper pulley, part # HR4-026. It slipped one of the rods at high speed & the rod jambed against the rear bulkhead causing the above bearings to strip out. If anyone uses this 3 racing part, pull the rods & epoxy them in before you install it or you will be buying bearings too.
As for the CF shock towers... Both of the ones from 3 racing are broken & I'm currently using the HPI ones. They are both the same thickness. I think the HPI rear is stronger. The 3 racing front also sticks up a lot higher than the HPI and could be an issue with certain bodies. (I have a 200mm Toyota GTP body that won't fit with the 3 racing front tower)
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Old 06-06-2006, 04:19 AM   #10378
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I actually added a few shims to the top of the assembly to reduce the play in the steering. Just be careful not to add too many and cause the steering to bind. everything should still move freely afterwards
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Old 06-06-2006, 10:11 AM   #10379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boggysv
there seems to be a little play at the this part of my r40. I have ~1mm vertical play along the shaft.


Is it normal?
Can I just add some washers to cure the problem(if so, on top or at the bottom)? Would there be any negative side effects?

Thanks in advance.
There was a bit of concern about this when the car was released. Shimming is the way to go. If you are having problems with the bellcrank lifting on the shaft. I haven't had a problem with it though. It could have somthing to do with the mounting angle of the linkages.
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Old 06-06-2006, 10:21 AM   #10380
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To all my R40 comrades:

It is with great difficulty that I must let my Hara ed R40 go. If anybody is interested let me know. I'm cleaning house and this is just sitting around. I am looking for $500obo shipped. There is almost enough to even build the 2004 Edition. I think you might need universals and shocks to build a second one. I have tons of spares to go with it. Pics available upon request. You can email me at [email protected].
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