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Old 12-04-2003, 04:14 PM   #1021
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I will give you fifty bucks for that inferior HPI?
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Old 12-04-2003, 04:16 PM   #1022
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Uhhh.....yeah, yeah.........if your that unhappy with it, I'll give you $35 for it!
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Old 12-04-2003, 04:28 PM   #1023
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
GIVE US CF TOWERS AS STANDARD (cast aluminum SUCKS....)
FYI: the shock towers are stamped aluminum, not cast.
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Old 12-04-2003, 04:34 PM   #1024
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
OK..this is it..

HPI needs to ADDRESS the damn ISSUES with this car..

CHANGE THE FUCKING PLASTIC.

ADD A FUCKING SHOCK BLADDER

GIVE US CF TOWERS AS STANDARD (cast aluminum SUCKS....)

BEEF UP THE DRIVELINE COMPONENTS.. (rubber belts.. )
do us a favor..Sell the car,buy something else.........

but then,whatever you buy, when the first warm month rolls around,bring that replacement car to Nanuet NY for a night of racing..........You'll see some HPI action...(and you'll find out quick the car(HPI) is great........it's your f'en attitude that needs improvement)
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Old 12-04-2003, 04:39 PM   #1025
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Oh, by the way guys........I'm now a card carrying member of the R40 club.

Quick takes on the kit now that its complete...

-Some of the plastic parts do have sort of a 'toy' feel to them. But it didn't neccesarily strike me as 'too soft' or on the opposite end 'too brittle'. Of course only on track testing will tell the tale, but I'm not concerned.

-The steering upgrade(ball bearings) are definitely a must. The steering was very free until I attached the front bulkhead cover. Then there was some drag.

-It was tougher getting the wiring set up than I thought. I got it worked out, but for some reason I thought that with the reciever box and transmitter pack box, that there would be more room for wires.

-I simply LOVE this whole 'all components removable without taking off the top deck' thing. Sweet!

-The car does seem to weigh more(without engine or electronics) than my stock ReflexNT did. But it seems to be right at about the same weight as a friend of mine's ReflexNT Team Only. So I'm not concerned about the weight.

-The car's drivetrain is more free out of the box than my ReflexNT's drive train was after a FULL SEASON!

-Last but not least.......Gotta love these diffs!!! No leaks, and just as smooth as my ReflexNT's 6 gear diffs. 6 gear diff conversion need not apply!

I'll be getting my engine for it soon. Then the wait begins for spring next year!
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Old 12-04-2003, 04:59 PM   #1026
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Wow, is it just the R40, or do people grind on all good RC cars..?? Should start a new thread "R40 bashing" so they can all get it out of their system.. With so much vulgarity I sense some pent up issues.. The best way to deal with that is to get it out of your system, but I doubt too many folks here want to hear it.. My 2 cents..

So no takers on my earlier Q's..??? I am patient..
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Old 12-04-2003, 07:25 PM   #1027
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No its not just the R40. Every car gets flamed on. Its just something that happens.
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Old 12-04-2003, 07:48 PM   #1028
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Default about the diffs...

hi everyone...i just about done with the building of my r40....but one question....are the diffs supposed to be real tight....mine are insanley tight...i done it via the instructions that diff oil is thick...i filled it up all the way and just greased the other......and wowo...they r both hard to move....also i have binding in the drivetrain ....i know this was a big topic but i cant find it anymore....can somwone tell me what to check on the drivetrain....it wont roll at all with a push.....jus kinda slides along the floor....thanks guys for all the help....by the way people are goin to bash competetion of different makes....its kinda like motorcycles...i ride crotch rockets but get alot of dirty looks from guys with harleys....and my 2 cents is if you are enjoying riding it dont matter what it is...and with rc...if your racing and having fun...leave it at that...dont be haters.....thanks...and keep it safe
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Old 12-04-2003, 07:58 PM   #1029
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
OK..this is it..

HPI needs to ADDRESS the damn ISSUES with this car..

CHANGE THE FUCKING PLASTIC.

ADD A FUCKING SHOCK BLADDER

GIVE US CF TOWERS AS STANDARD (cast aluminum SUCKS....)

BEEF UP THE DRIVELINE COMPONENTS.. (rubber belts.. )
ok here's my 2 cents take it or leave it

yes the car has a few issues, it's new get over it. If you've ever had any hpi car before all the new cars have issues they will be addresed in time.

I personally have no problem with the plastic although I'd rather see them use the the same stuff they used on the savage's.

I thought i'd have a problem with no shock bladders myself but if you really think about it if your shocks are moving that high and that often you must be driving it offroad? J/K they feel alright to me the way they are.

I'm all for carbon fiber but the aluminum towers are fine for now, got plenty of time till next season to get CF towers.

and I'm all for rubber belts I shreded 2 already and they really need to upgrade em.

all in all I like the R40 it does what I wanted it to do
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:34 PM   #1030
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Default Re: about the diffs...

Quote:
Originally posted by raveupon
hi everyone...i just about done with the building of my r40....but one question....are the diffs supposed to be real tight....mine are insanley tight...i done it via the instructions that diff oil is thick...i filled it up all the way and just greased the other......
This is where I ignored the instructions, for the real diff, I used 10000 wt diff oil. Using the supplied grease just didn't seem right.
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:37 PM   #1031
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Default Re: about the diffs...

Quote:
Originally posted by raveupon
hi everyone...i just about done with the building of my r40....but one question....are the diffs supposed to be real tight....mine are insanley tight...i done it via the instructions that diff oil is thick...i filled it up all the way and just greased the other......and wowo...they r both hard to move....also i have binding in the drivetrain ....i know this was a big topic but i cant find it anymore....can somwone tell me what to check on the drivetrain....it wont roll at all with a push.....jus kinda slides along the floor....thanks guys for all the help....by the way people are goin to bash competetion of different makes....its kinda like motorcycles...i ride crotch rockets but get alot of dirty looks from guys with harleys....and my 2 cents is if you are enjoying riding it dont matter what it is...and with rc...if your racing and having fun...leave it at that...dont be haters.....thanks...and keep it safe
well,you ought to go through and check it...that car will roll very easy......Just take your time..you'll find the reason..

take off the side belt..and roll the car on front and back wheels..maybe you can isolate it that way.
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:40 PM   #1032
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Default Re: about the diffs...

Quote:
Originally posted by raveupon
hi everyone...i just about done with the building of my r40....but one question....are the diffs supposed to be real tight....mine are insanley tight...i done it via the instructions that diff oil is thick...i filled it up all the way and just greased the other......and wowo...they r both hard to move....also i have binding in the drivetrain ....i know this was a big topic but i cant find it anymore....can somwone tell me what to check on the drivetrain....it wont roll at all with a push.....jus kinda slides along the floor....thanks guys for all the help....by the way people are goin to bash competetion of different makes....its kinda like motorcycles...i ride crotch rockets but get alot of dirty looks from guys with harleys....and my 2 cents is if you are enjoying riding it dont matter what it is...and with rc...if your racing and having fun...leave it at that...dont be haters.....thanks...and keep it safe
I just finished building mine today. As far as the diffs go, I didn't follow the kit instruction. It seems to me that it would lead to some insane 'push' on all but the most high traction of tracks. What I did was follow what I did on my previous nitro sedan. I went with 80wt oil in the rear diff, and mixed the 80wt oil with the 50,000wt oil they want you to put in the front diff. If you mix if 50/50, it will amount to essentially 25,000-30,000wt up front. Now this may not be right for your particular track, but I ran this setup in my other car all last year and it was perfect for me.

As for the drive train locking up, all I can say is go back and check everything and anyting. Check to make sure that the special rear mounts for the rear diff are both in the same notch. Make sure that the belts are caught on anything......you know. One thing you know is that the problem is there somewhere, all you have to do is find it. Don't be afraid to pull almost everythig apart.
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:42 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally posted by regg151
ok here's my 2 cents take it or leave it

yes the car has a few issues, it's new get over it. If you've ever had any hpi car before all the new cars have issues they will be addresed in time.

I personally have no problem with the plastic although I'd rather see them use the the same stuff they used on the savage's.

I thought i'd have a problem with no shock bladders myself but if you really think about it if your shocks are moving that high and that often you must be driving it offroad? J/K they feel alright to me the way they are.

I'm all for carbon fiber but the aluminum towers are fine for now, got plenty of time till next season to get CF towers.

and I'm all for rubber belts I shreded 2 already and they really need to upgrade em.

all in all I like the R40 it does what I wanted it to do
it takes owning another pro car to be able to criticize this car..

and criticize i will..

own a mugen, and you will know superior plastics when you see them. a good balance between stiffness, and durability is required. it didnt take much for my R40 to collapse, even busting a shock cap open, and please, don't tell me I didn't build it right, because you can come and personally watch me build an R40 up from the bags.

The towers are crap. It's the TRUTH. Ok, stamped aluminum.. still sucks. Theres no way around it. And HPI did this to their car, to reduce cost, common McKinney, give me the reasoning behind this!!! Am I right? Or do you have a clever cover up to make it look as if the towers are sufficient?

Take a look around other sections of the car. Cutting costs everywhere. For a PRO car, meaning to compete and hold its own against other PRO cars, plastic shocks are just plain degrading.

"I thought i'd have a problem with no shock bladders myself but if you really think about it if your shocks are moving that high and that often you must be driving it offroad?"

Please do not insult my intelligence when your assumptions are just false. Shock bladders aren't meant to cusion rebound, because on-road R/C shocks are not MADE to be compressed full volume. Shock bladders have a couple purposes, one being to eliminate AIR stuck at the top when assembling the shock cap assembly to the shock body. A hole in the cap above a shock bladder's seal helps bleed the air out during assembly, and less air equals smoother motion of the shaft.

The reason my shock cap forced out of the shock body was because of a SLIGHT (no exaggerations here..) impact with a T-MAXX.

No, i shouldn't be driving the damn thing in co-horts with a monster truck, but I will be damned before I can believe a car of this nature cannot withstand the impact equivalent to a side-slam from another pro car.

But this isnt about the impact, this is about the crap-tastic shocks that come with this PRO car. Does it make sense that every other pro car comes with alloy shock bodies/caps/bladders, but the R40 does not? And what's up with the steering bushings? HPI is milking the crap out of their PRO.

Any other angles you might want to shoot my way, im all ears, but I wont back down from my stance.

Sure I'll keep the car, and do exactly as HPI wants us to do, which is to buy their *required* hop-ups to stay competitive, but I won't stop believing that they are taking advantage of marketing finesse.

Last edited by tranced; 12-04-2003 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:45 PM   #1034
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
Ummm........upset? I don't get it. Everything listed here is stuff you know about before you buy it........So, why buy it if this stuff was a problem???
Appearantly I was not as well informed about the car before purchase.

Do you think I would have bought the car if I knew about these problems? Would you have? Well sure.. maybe you would.


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Old 12-05-2003, 12:25 AM   #1035
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Originally posted by Darkseid
Oh, by the way guys........I'm now a card carrying member of the R40 club.

Hello again fellow reflex driver....... I also got myself a R40

-The car does seem to weigh more(without engine or electronics) than my stock ReflexNT did. But it seems to be right at about the same weight as a friend of mine's ReflexNT Team Only. So I'm not concerned about the weight.

I haven't taken everything out of my reflex yet to compare weights yet, so I'll trust you on that

-Last but not least.......Gotta love these diffs!!! No leaks, and just as smooth as my ReflexNT's 6 gear diffs. 6 gear diff conversion need not apply!

My rear diff leaks a bit..... I also put in 80wt rear oil instead of the silly grease....... how tight did you tighten the rear diff screws? I might have to up the weight a bit since the 2 gear diff provides less action.
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