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Old 05-19-2006, 10:10 PM   #10291
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Originally Posted by jscamry
what??
did we miss a page?
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Old 05-20-2006, 12:57 AM   #10292
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Originally Posted by itchy b
did we miss a page?
He was referring to this guy

Quote:
Originally Posted by in2deep
:if anyone is interested in a r 40 i have one w/jp mod motor car is stock dont need no upgrades to try to make the car handle i do just fine with it being stock always running up front and have one a bunch of times w/it just my 2 cent's.
Yesterday 03:58 AM
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Old 05-20-2006, 01:57 AM   #10293
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
He was referring to this guy
oh, i see! maybe in2deep does'nt know where the punctuation keys are on his key board?
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Old 05-20-2006, 08:06 PM   #10294
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LOL yeah I get sick of reading a post 5 times to try and work out what it means cause somebody does not use full stops
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:27 AM   #10295
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The only tricky part is the clutch and you can go mugen for $50 for the full set.
Can I use the HPI gears with the mugen clutch?
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:54 PM   #10296
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Yes.
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Old 05-22-2006, 06:21 PM   #10297
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Hello dear all,

I'm getting my first kit tomorrow. The shop called it "R40 Hara Edition". I think is is referred to as the "2005" edition in the US?
This is my first kit, so I hope not to screwup since I have "limited mechanical skills"

Other than the basic handtools, some thread lock, and a little rubber cement for the brake pads, should I prepare anything else? (I am living in a hostel currently, and dont really have much tools around)

Do I follow the manual 100%? are there any other required/recommended steps in prepping the parts before I assemble? I've heard about soaking the plastic parts in freshly boiled water for half an hour to increase it's toughness?

Is there anymore I should know before assembly?

Sorry for the noobistic questions, I've read some pages here and there, but not all.
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Old 05-22-2006, 07:24 PM   #10298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boggysv
Hello dear all,

I'm getting my first kit tomorrow. The shop called it "R40 Hara Edition". I think is is referred to as the "2005" edition in the US?
This is my first kit, so I hope not to screwup since I have "limited mechanical skills"

Other than the basic handtools, some thread lock, and a little rubber cement for the brake pads, should I prepare anything else? (I am living in a hostel currently, and dont really have much tools around)

Do I follow the manual 100%? are there any other required/recommended steps in prepping the parts before I assemble? I've heard about soaking the plastic parts in freshly boiled water for half an hour to increase it's toughness?

Is there anymore I should know before assembly?

Sorry for the noobistic questions, I've read some pages here and there, but not all.
Some good questions. The kit is called "2005 edition" in most countries outside the US. It is called "Hara edition" in the US. This is the latest edition of the car so you chose well.

The tools that you should get if you are intending to stay in RC racing for a while and run gas (my opinion only of course):

- 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm hex screwdriver. I like the Hudy brand.
- A good phillips head screwdriver with hardened tip.
- A set of calipers that are accurate to 0.1mm.
- A set of channel locks (expanding size "grips"). Makes working with flywheels much more pleasant.
- A glow plug sized cross tool. The Hudy one also does flywheel nuts.
- Ride height guage and droop guage. Hudy again makes a good one, you can get a plastic one from HPI and some other companies.

These are the tools that I use all the time.

The 2005 goes together very well if you follow the instructions and appendix closely. The biggest problem I had with my car was the two screws that go into the 2 speed clutch shoes will almost certainly strip. You want a 2.4mm x 10mm hex headed screw (x 2) to replace the ugly ones they supply.

For all screws going into plastic I like to put some grease on them to help them cut the threads and go slow. It takes longer but you get nice tight threads and wont strip the screws.

Make sure when you build the suspension it moves freely under its own weight, especially the front as it can bind because of the swaybar mounts being overtightened. Use the stock setup to start with.
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:37 PM   #10299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boggysv
Hello dear all,

I'm getting my first kit tomorrow. The shop called it "R40 Hara Edition". I think is is referred to as the "2005" edition in the US?
This is my first kit, so I hope not to screwup since I have "limited mechanical skills"

Other than the basic handtools, some thread lock, and a little rubber cement for the brake pads, should I prepare anything else? (I am living in a hostel currently, and dont really have much tools around)

Do I follow the manual 100%? are there any other required/recommended steps in prepping the parts before I assemble? I've heard about soaking the plastic parts in freshly boiled water for half an hour to increase it's toughness?

Is there anymore I should know before assembly?

Sorry for the noobistic questions, I've read some pages here and there, but not all.
No need to boil the plastic parts. They are plenty strong and not brittle at all. The boiling trick was an old school trick to get more flex and less breakage. As for tools, look at the manual in the front. It will give you the minimum tools requried to build the kit. AMG is correct though, you will eventually need better tools. I used the supplied hex wrenches for a gew years because I was so broke in my early days. I did get a good #2 and #1 phillips screw driver though. Cheap ones will just strip out the screws.
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Old 05-22-2006, 09:25 PM   #10300
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Does anyone have any tips or tricks for the R40 pivot balls? I was having trouble keeping them from binding. they are either too loose or too tight. They are also working loose as I go through a race. I have them installed correctly and all but their not working correctly. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-22-2006, 11:04 PM   #10301
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Originally Posted by vulso
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for the R40 pivot balls? I was having trouble keeping them from binding. they are either too loose or too tight. They are also working loose as I go through a race. I have them installed correctly and all but their not working correctly. Any help would be appreciated.
First, make sure that the plastic insert is seating properly. Then tighten down the screws until the joint completely freezes up. Then loosten until the suspension works freely with the minimum of play. Repeat with the other pivot and you are set.

As for the loostening during the race, I have had this happen to a couple of knuckles. Most of the time, the screw has a tight enough fit so it doesn't back out. If it doesn't, you can scar the threads just a bit. I use an L shape probe to scratch a line through the threads. You could also put a drop of CA on the threads, let it sit a minute then thread the screw into the knuckle. It'll be hard to adjust after that, but it won't move during the race. You could just replace the knuckle too. That's what I ended up doing. Nothing worse then having the car start handling bad because somthing loostens up.
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:22 AM   #10302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
First, make sure that the plastic insert is seating properly. Then tighten down the screws until the joint completely freezes up. Then loosten until the suspension works freely with the minimum of play. Repeat with the other pivot and you are set.

As for the loostening during the race, I have had this happen to a couple of knuckles. Most of the time, the screw has a tight enough fit so it doesn't back out. If it doesn't, you can scar the threads just a bit. I use an L shape probe to scratch a line through the threads. You could also put a drop of CA on the threads, let it sit a minute then thread the screw into the knuckle. It'll be hard to adjust after that, but it won't move during the race. You could just replace the knuckle too. That's what I ended up doing. Nothing worse then having the car start handling bad because somthing loostens up.
Totally agree with Roy. Another "non destructive" method to increase tightness fit is use some "plumbers tape". This is a really thin usually white tape that plumbers use to seal the screw joins in pipes and such. It works awesome as it just slightly increases the size of the thread. Just remember to wind it onto the thread in the OPPOSITE direction of the thread so when you tighten it into the knuckle it does not get all crushed.
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:50 AM   #10303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Totally agree with Roy. Another "non destructive" method to increase tightness fit is use some "plumbers tape". This is a really thin usually white tape that plumbers use to seal the screw joins in pipes and such. It works awesome as it just slightly increases the size of the thread. Just remember to wind it onto the thread in the OPPOSITE direction of the thread so when you tighten it into the knuckle it does not get all crushed.
I was going to suggest the same fix, this is the method that I use!!

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Old 05-23-2006, 04:37 AM   #10304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
For all screws going into plastic I like to put some grease on them to help them cut the threads and go slow. It takes longer but you get nice tight threads and wont strip the screws.
Thanks.

Wont the grease allow the screw to undo itself?

I plan to buy a setup system and better tools when budget allows. Before that, I still need to buy the engine
(trying to spread the cost over a few months so it doesnt look too bad)
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Old 05-23-2006, 03:25 PM   #10305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boggysv
Thanks.

Wont the grease allow the screw to undo itself?

I plan to buy a setup system and better tools when budget allows. Before that, I still need to buy the engine
(trying to spread the cost over a few months so it doesnt look too bad)
Nope the plastic will grip the screw nicely.

I thought the same thing about the tools, and made do for around 1 year with the cheaper ones. Well I spent a fortune replacing parts that I had damaged because of the poor quality tools. The ones I mentioned above wont cost a fortune, perhaps $50-70. Well worth it.
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