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Old 05-09-2006, 01:31 PM   #10246
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Thats about the settings I had. And Im shooting for the same thing, "even tire wear".... but this time around the car was coning the outside of the tire...which means there wasnt enough.

I wasnt 100% sure what it was before , but Ill find out next race if it was incorrect or just not checked once I went to a smaller diameter tire.

Another thing I noticed , my brakes were working great. Then for the A-main they were noticably worse...the heat was probably at max for the day. So im sure it was the reason why.

But what part do you think was failing? Pads? I have a feeling it might be the brace that the brake cam is attached to. I read on hpi japan it increases braking , I have a feeling in the 94 degree weather here already that it was probably bending and not allowing full pressure to apply. It was pretty noticable so much so I had to brake a good 20 feet earlier on the back straight.

But I was checking out a few of the HPI setup sheets and 2 of them had -3 negative camber in the rear. Then -1.5 to -2 degree for the front.

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Old 05-09-2006, 03:26 PM   #10247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Thats about the settings I had. And Im shooting for the same thing, "even tire wear".... but this time around the car was coning the outside of the tire...which means there wasnt enough.

I wasnt 100% sure what it was before , but Ill find out next race if it was incorrect or just not checked once I went to a smaller diameter tire.

Another thing I noticed , my brakes were working great. Then for the A-main they were noticably worse...the heat was probably at max for the day. So im sure it was the reason why.

But what part do you think was failing? Pads? I have a feeling it might be the brace that the brake cam is attached to. I read on hpi japan it increases braking , I have a feeling in the 94 degree weather here already that it was probably bending and not allowing full pressure to apply. It was pretty noticable so much so I had to brake a good 20 feet earlier on the back straight.

But I was checking out a few of the HPI setup sheets and 2 of them had -3 negative camber in the rear. Then -1.5 to -2 degree for the front.
Give it a try see how it works. I think you are coning the tires because you are on the gas much harder at the turn apex. With your brakes, you might want to check the brake pads an see if they have worn through. They could also be glazed up because of the heat. Is the rotor clean? Could also be fuel on the pads.

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Old 05-09-2006, 03:43 PM   #10248
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I have two , lol. I work for an automotive magazine as well have my own RC shop. Im just really into my r40. Everything Im normally into I go pretty much full out. My last hobby ended up becoming a major business and helped sculpt and lead the way for industry I was in.
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:16 AM   #10249
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Rapid is probably right about your brakes. De-glaze your pads and take some real fine sandpaper and scuff the disc, I have found that this realy helps with brake fade.
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Old 05-11-2006, 03:26 PM   #10250
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Hey guys. Ran the R40 this weekend and it was awsome. I decided to run a overdrive set-up. Put the 22t pulley up front and ran a 3mm difference between the front and rear tires. Wow. As far as camber links I havent had much problems with them on this R40. My last one they never held up, as a temp fix I used wire ties to keep them from moving back in on the rod. Also running your clutch to tight can cause the engine to boog down thru the corners. You want a good medium. If it hits to hard you run the risk of kicking out the rear end. I have about 2mm play in my clutch and it works great.. I just need to gear down first gear
You da man, thats exactly how I set my clutch as well. It feels sweet when you got it just right huh.
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Old 05-11-2006, 03:35 PM   #10251
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Quick question for you guys. What are you running for camber front and rear?

I also redid my rear camber links. Im also going to be running -2.5 to -3 camber in the rear instead of -1.5 as before. This alone is going to bring the turnbuckles deeper into the rod. So this should help with the stripping some and from what I felt when my car was running extreme camber was pretty good. So Im going to jump up a little for next race and see how it goes. Plus this should put an end to the rear camber link problem.

Also if you run smaller diameter tires, does this effect the camber when you goto fix the ride height. Or simply put does changing the shock collar position effect camber?
Camber is an tricky setting to get just right. For good performance and tire life you can set it so your tire wears flat, and this does mean that on average you are using the full width of the contact patch correctly. However it also means that you are doing so on average. Sometimes when you are searching for higher corner speeds you can increase or decrease camber beyond the "wear flat" criteria and make the car perform better on certain parts of the track. Usually this will be high speed parts of the track as the more camber the better side grip under load.

I have in the past run different camber angles on all 4 corners, and also used too much camber to run the tires flat to make them work better through the high speed stuff. If you use greater than required camber you can find that your slow speed handling suffers as you run only on the inner portion of the tire. You can address this by truing a 1-2 degree inwards pre-cone into your tire to make the contact patch flatter than it otherwise would be.

Small tires dont really change the camber setting per se, but as the overall compression of the foam is reduced as the foam gets smaller (the tire gets harder basically) you have less contact patch available when the car is at rest.
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Old 05-11-2006, 03:40 PM   #10252
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The brakes could be fading due to:

1. Contaminants on the brake rotor/pads
2. Overheated/stressed servo
3. Reduced voltage in the receiver pack
4. Pads glazed/worn
5. Larger tires giving more leverage on the drivetrain (if you put noticably larger tires on)

Most likely not due to the lever/brace flexing.
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Old 05-11-2006, 06:59 PM   #10253
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Hey guys....maybe a stupid question, what is the internal ratio for the HARA R40? Does anyone know the FDR for the 2 speed gears included in the kit??
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:08 PM   #10254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The brakes could be fading due to:

1. Contaminants on the brake rotor/pads
2. Overheated/stressed servo
3. Reduced voltage in the receiver pack
4. Pads glazed/worn
5. Larger tires giving more leverage on the drivetrain (if you put noticably larger tires on)

Most likely not due to the lever/brace flexing.
Nothing in my car changed , except the heat from running 1 hour and 20 minutes later for the a-main. Which put me around the middle of the hot afternoon. Servo is a strong futaba thats brand new.

Pads are fine , no contaminents there as it was running perfect both qualifiers start to finish. Voltage was great too. I havea feeling next time I goto run it , nothing will be changed and itll work great again until the a-main where the heat will be peaked and even worse next month.

I gotta fix it cause it threw me off at the end.


Has anyone ever tried the upgraded hpi steel disc?



Never heard anyone talk about it , so I figure no.
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:21 PM   #10255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Nothing in my car changed , except the heat from running 1 hour and 20 minutes later for the a-main. Which put me around the middle of the hot afternoon. Servo is a strong futaba thats brand new.

Pads are fine , no contaminents there as it was running perfect both qualifiers start to finish. Voltage was great too. I havea feeling next time I goto run it , nothing will be changed and itll work great again until the a-main where the heat will be peaked and even worse next month.

I gotta fix it cause it threw me off at the end.


Has anyone ever tried the upgraded hpi steel disc?



Never heard anyone talk about it , so I figure no.
If you recall the discussion about good braking from a while back you will recall that I have this disc on my car. The biggest benefit to this item is it is machined perfectly flat unlike the stamped stock disc. This alone increases braking consistency and power as I mentioned a few months back.

I find it extremely unlikely that ambient heat would significantly reduce your brakes ability to work by itself, but the longer the race the more they do heat up from usage and they can start to work less well. I use a M8 and I have it set so I can dial in more brake on the fly due to fade using the thumb selector.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:06 PM   #10256
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Yeah I thought you had some other disc....Well first lap the brakes were totally different. I have the gpm titanium disc , it seems pretty flat to me. As well you can lathe any surface flat if it doesnt come that way.

But im not sure the flatness will help my problem. It just seems to me like a plastic part is now hot and flexy and its not able to apply correct force to the brakes. Guess I was hoping someone else had the problem and found a solution.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:17 PM   #10257
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Also what do you guys do about the brake dragging after you use it? Do you think this is a concern. I know people used to place springs in between there rs4-2's. Has anyone tried this on the r40. Im thinking that or im going to use a little fuel tubing and place it on the top screw , this should make the pads come apart when you let off brake. Otherwise it looks like it just sits there and there spinning seems to just kinda push it away.
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Old 05-12-2006, 12:50 AM   #10258
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AI what I did to make my brakes more consistant was to upgrade the plastic brake arm and brace to aluminum the weight gain is negligibable (sp) and the extra rigidity in this area really does help out with the braking. again something I found on my old rs4 racer also worked out well for the r40. now i'm still running the stock brake disc and pads and they will lock up the wheels if I want them to, currently I have it set up to bring the car to a stop from full speed in about 50 ft with a panic brake if for some odd reason it should become nessacery.

And My clutch setup is very similar to yours I like a low engagement point as I find it makes the car much more predictable out of the turns if I left it the way HPI recomends it it was just way to loose coming out of the turns since it hit so hard. also i'm running a completly different clutch shoe I ditched the stock shoe in favor of a red roulon shoe made by Delta, grabs much better then the stock shoe but still has a bit of give.
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Old 05-12-2006, 07:04 AM   #10259
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Yeah it says on hpi japan it helps braking. Im going to give it a try then next month. It also seemed to move smoother with the aluminum brace. Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2006, 07:08 AM   #10260
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Hi everyone:
Please help me where are everyone buy the part for the R40?
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